ZipZap Monster Truck drive schematic

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codesuidae
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ZipZap Monster Truck drive schematic

Post by codesuidae »

Howdy,

I'm a noob here so feel free to bitch-slap me if this is not useful or appropriate.

I spent a few hours working out the ZipZap monster truck motor circuits last night. It should be reasonably accurate. Refer to the component names for location on the board. Here it is:

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Its all scrunched up horizontally so it fits into a 400 pixel-wide image.
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hogjowlz
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Post by hogjowlz »

sweet dude. now do i remove the s1as or the s2as for fets?

welcome to the hood btw.
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codesuidae
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Post by codesuidae »

S1A's are nFETs, S2A's are pFETs. I think you'll have to add a few jumpers to reconfigure things though, those D9D's probably won't work right connected to FET gates, there won't be enough current to operate them properly. You can reconnect things to set it up like the ZZSE h-bridge with cyborgzero's mod though, should be simple to do.

Frankly I'm a bit puzzled as to why those DND's are there at all, they take up valuable board space and don't appear to me to do anything particularly useful. But I'm just a hack, so I suppose there is some reason for them.

Oh, and I just noticed that I put the n-channel device symbols in upside down. Oh well, thats what I get for watching late-night TV while I do diagrams.
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hogjowlz
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Post by hogjowlz »

well i have a biff turbo board. i need to know what trannies to cut off and what ones are the gate pins.
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codesuidae
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Post by codesuidae »

good, I was actually going to suggest that as a better option than the usual components. You want to dump Q5 and Q6 (p-channel) and Q7 and Q8 (n-channel).

The gate pins are in the usual location. If you have the text facing you, two legs down, one leg up, the gate is on the lower left.
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Post by CaboWabo »

shit yea, nice first post - that'll get you bitch-slap free - the diet of bitch-slaps, only 1/2 a calorie. :-)

welcome aboard man, have fun, and thanks for the schematic!
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Post by hogjowlz »

codesuidae wrote:good, I was actually going to suggest that as a better option than the usual components. You want to dump Q5 and Q6 (p-channel) and Q7 and Q8 (n-channel).

The gate pins are in the usual location. If you have the text facing you, two legs down, one leg up, the gate is on the lower left.
on my other installations of biffy, i only had to remove two trannies. would it be the n or the p channel shit? wheres bruce when ya need him? lol
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Post by codesuidae »

All four would be required to change both forward and reverse, if you just want to do forward (or just reverse?), you only need to change one or the other of the pairs Q5&Q7 or Q6&Q8. I'd be guessing if I said I knew which was which. Easy enough to find out. Put a volt meter on the gate of Q8, it should read 0v. Push forward on the remote, if the voltage goes to something positive, thats the one you want. If it stays zero, press backward on the remote and it should go positive. If it still doesn't, somethings borked.
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