How could I mask it?

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betula66
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How could I mask it?

Post by betula66 »

My problem is that I can never mask my car properly. The paint always gets under it,and it ruins my whole work. And if I get the masking off,the already painted area under it,doesn't look like it should.

I've already tried to dry it for days,but it didnt work anyway.Maybe I have problems with my paint,but what should I use?

Any advice?

What do you use for masking?
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stagg
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Post by stagg »

get tamiya masking tape from a LHS. And also, make sure your painting several, THIN coats. The thinner the better.
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Post by DarkTari »

I use Tamiya masking tape also which is excellent. When masking windows, use a toothpick to make sure the tape sticks on all edges & corners. After you cut your masked areas, use the toothpick again, run along the edge of the tape to get a proper seal. Also before masking, clean the areas with alcohol and let dry. This will ensure a good "sticking" surface for the tape. I always primer first, then paint. When removing the tape, cut along the masked area with an Xacto, this will separate the paint from the tape so it will not pull from the painted surface when removing the masking.
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Post by betula66 »

Thanks a lot guys! :bowdown:
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Post by CaboWabo »

You can also use liquid mask for those hard to seal areas. The shit works like a charm.
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Post by steelwoolghandi »

You can also use liquid mask for those hard to seal areas. The shit works like a charm.
Bingo thats what I now use I have also used painters tape you can get at your local hardware store its like masking tape but its blue in color and it wont pull up the paint undeneath.
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chrome
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Post by chrome »

I saw some of that the other day Cabo, what's the consistency of that? Do you paint it on or what? I've seen the kind for 1/10th lexan bodies and it's like a goo that just gets brushed on. How do you apply it for bit bodies?

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Post by CaboWabo »

Yea dudes, I live by this shit for painting any scale rc bodies.

Consistency? hmm... maybe like that fake snot stuff they used to sell in the 80's? lol hard to describe man.

You can paint it on or you can thin it out with water and spray it through your airbrush. Typically, you'd like to get thin, but even amounts of coverage.
Depending on how thin you have spread it, when it dries, it will dry clear or with a slight blue tinge to it, allowing you to easily see the line below that you need to follow while trimming.
Usually for the micros, I just paint it on.
If I were doing a 10th scale lexan body, I'd probably spray it on unless I only needed to do a small area.
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Post by stagg »

Also, i forgot to add, what i like to do, is take a mechanical pencil, and take there eraser, and use it to tighten down the tape.
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Post by SuperFly »

I'll tell ya what my favorite masking material is for things like tail lights and headlights: Elmer's Glue. It has good surface tension so it pretty much stays where you put it, and it's easy to pick off with an xacto tip.
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Post by sg219 »

SuperFly wrote:Elmer's Glue. It has good surface tension so it pretty much stays where you put it, and it's easy to pick off with an xacto tip.
I never thought of Elmers. :???:
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Post by chrome »

Damn Superfly, that is a pretty damn good idea. I'm going to have to try that. I don't have a LHS around, but I sure as hell have a Dollar General.

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Post by CaboWabo »

noxorc came up with the Elmer's method back in the day.
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... ght=elmers
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Post by JDM-R34 »

Does elmer's glue leave any kind of film or anything on the bit bodies, or just peel right off after dry?
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Post by hue35 »

JDM-R34 wrote:Does elmer's glue leave any kind of film or anything on the bit bodies, or just peel right off after dry?
It worked great the couple times I've tried it... it seems like a good choice for the tiny little details. But, like anything, you should test it on a scrap body to get the feel for how it works before you use it on a project you have a bunch of time into.
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