Visible Power. This Mustang needs a hood scoop.
- LBRC
- bitGangsta'
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Visible Power. This Mustang needs a hood scoop.
I need to find an open front hood scoop to cover these.
Also having trouble deciding on a motor. What’s the Xmod equivalent of a supercharged small block V8?

I don’t really like large FET stacks but being a muscle car it needed something to flex. 2x7 IRF 7389’s, 5 volt regulator for steering and lights, and 3 14430 lithium-ions.

Also having trouble deciding on a motor. What’s the Xmod equivalent of a supercharged small block V8?

I don’t really like large FET stacks but being a muscle car it needed something to flex. 2x7 IRF 7389’s, 5 volt regulator for steering and lights, and 3 14430 lithium-ions.

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How about aluminum alloy wheel shafts I'll let you in on a little secret the same day I got this car I received an email from Chin Ngai Hobby (GPM) saying that the aluminum Xmod parts I ordered will be shipped around October first. I read the email while assembling the car and thought “Ok Heavy Metal” its just one of those times when everything seems to work.hogjowlz wrote:lol id work on not breaking things first. lol that much power is going to shred your axle cups.
I’ll have to try the front deck, battery clips, and front body mounts on another car but I can’t think of a better one to put everything else on. The only thing is that I forgot to specify a color, I just hope they don’t come in a rainbow assortement.
- KaNye
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That thing has got to haul some ass!
And if they do come in random colors you could always deanodize them if you want em in silver, which would look killer with the mustang. Sg has a small tutorial on how to deanodize Mini-T alloy and buff them back up in this thread (i think on page 6) - http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... c&start=60 Which should work on your alloy too.
And if they do come in random colors you could always deanodize them if you want em in silver, which would look killer with the mustang. Sg has a small tutorial on how to deanodize Mini-T alloy and buff them back up in this thread (i think on page 6) - http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... c&start=60 Which should work on your alloy too.

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A lot left to do but it’s coming along. The wires are a little missy but when they’re tied down and not hanging loose it will look much better, and the detachable third battery works great. I’ve built a charger with a 1, 2, or 3 cell option for it. My goal is to be able to do a wheelie with the third cell on not win a top speed contest. But a quick test run on the speed checker had a respectable top speed of 76 km/h with the blue gear set.


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LBRC... Props. I have been following your work on MRCC and have to say, You are a bad ass. It's just fet stacks, external turbos, lithium ion power and hottie motors all over the place for you, eh? Oh, and that iWaver controller with the EL wire lighting... Killer stuff all the way, man. Truly an inspiration.
One thing... The wire routing for the third cell on this one... The twist won't work. You'll have to route it around the rear body clip, because the way it's routed in the pic, it'll get pinched when you put the shell on. (I'm sure you probably figured this out since taking the pic and I'm telling you shit you already know lol)
Once again, props... Post some of your other stuff over here so we can enjoy more of it(without making special trips to MRCC to check up on you lol... Hell, tell Sat4Life27 to get his sick moddin' ass over here, too lol), because in all honesty, There are only a handful of guys over there that keep me checking in there...
One thing... The wire routing for the third cell on this one... The twist won't work. You'll have to route it around the rear body clip, because the way it's routed in the pic, it'll get pinched when you put the shell on. (I'm sure you probably figured this out since taking the pic and I'm telling you shit you already know lol)
Once again, props... Post some of your other stuff over here so we can enjoy more of it(without making special trips to MRCC to check up on you lol... Hell, tell Sat4Life27 to get his sick moddin' ass over here, too lol), because in all honesty, There are only a handful of guys over there that keep me checking in there...
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I’ve completed the wiring, now just waiting for parts and working on the hood scoop. This is a picture of the Mustang chassis next to a stock one and the Stitch RSX chassis. The Stitch car is by far the best handling Xmod I’ve driven, but the Mustang should handle more like a muscle car.

The lithium advantage:
More power; 11.1 volts 650 mAh, lighter weight
Lighter; 13 grams lighter than stock with 2 cells, and only 5 grams more with the third cell.
Lowe center of gravity, much harder to roll.


The lithium advantage:
More power; 11.1 volts 650 mAh, lighter weight
Lighter; 13 grams lighter than stock with 2 cells, and only 5 grams more with the third cell.
Lowe center of gravity, much harder to roll.

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Sweet stuff, man... Can I ask, though... Where do you get your lithiums? I've been shopping around, and I think what I want to do is get loose cells and wire it all up myself... and build this charger...
Would this be worth my trouble, or should I just shell out the (too much) money for the stuff that's readily available?
Would this be worth my trouble, or should I just shell out the (too much) money for the stuff that's readily available?
- LBRC
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I’d say build it your self that way you own it, although it’s not always cheaper by the time it’s all over. It depends a lot on your soldering skills and equipment too. It’s not easy to solder wires to the cells, if you’re not careful you can damage them with too much heat, but you can always get solder tabs. I buy 14430’s in bulk, cheaper by the 100 lol, but you have to shop around for a good deal on single cells, remember they have a shelf life so you want a supplier that is selling new cells, not old.
That is a good choice for a charger circuit but if you get the parts from Radio Shack it'll still run you about 20 bucks. If you decide to build it add a switch that will let you select between R1 and a 10 ohm resistor for trickle charging at 65 milliamps instead of the 650 milliamps with R1, or better yet build the version that lets you choose between 1,2, or 3 cells and select the charge current. I have a very fast 1 amp ac chargers that I sell to people I’ve built cars for but you should have a trickle charger too, and a multi-meter is a must. You need to check the battery voltage before each charge to insure it is over 3 volts per cell, If not they should be trickle charged.
I’ve been toying with building a web page and putting some of the batteries, wire, chargers, and other parts I like on it at reasonable prices but there never seems to be enough time, or maybe I’d just rather build than sell.
I suppose I should make a few kits for the holidays and put them on ebay, with 2 batteries, steering mod resistors, some really good wire, the pins I like to use for the connectors, heatshirik, and a good charger. But then it would probably have to have instruction too, oh well.
That is a good choice for a charger circuit but if you get the parts from Radio Shack it'll still run you about 20 bucks. If you decide to build it add a switch that will let you select between R1 and a 10 ohm resistor for trickle charging at 65 milliamps instead of the 650 milliamps with R1, or better yet build the version that lets you choose between 1,2, or 3 cells and select the charge current. I have a very fast 1 amp ac chargers that I sell to people I’ve built cars for but you should have a trickle charger too, and a multi-meter is a must. You need to check the battery voltage before each charge to insure it is over 3 volts per cell, If not they should be trickle charged.
I’ve been toying with building a web page and putting some of the batteries, wire, chargers, and other parts I like on it at reasonable prices but there never seems to be enough time, or maybe I’d just rather build than sell.
I suppose I should make a few kits for the holidays and put them on ebay, with 2 batteries, steering mod resistors, some really good wire, the pins I like to use for the connectors, heatshirik, and a good charger. But then it would probably have to have instruction too, oh well.
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