Mask-cutting tip

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 2:27 pm

Over the last couple years, I've accumulated at least 2 of just about every shell available. On some of the more common bodies, I've got quite a few. I've started to keep one shitty version of each style on had for testing and prep work while I'm working on one for show. I've found this to be particularly useful for cutting masks.

When you cut masks on the car (really the only way to do it), you end up cutting into the plastic just a little, even if you're really careful. What I've started doing is cutting the mask on my shitty shell, peeling it off and replacing it on my good shell.

So say I'm doing up a Supra. I've got a stock orange Supra with some scuffs that I use as a driver. I'll put tape over all the windows and taillights and whatever else I want to mask. I then cut the masks on the crappy orange Supra, carefully peel them up and put them on my virgin clear Supra that I'm about to paint. Perfect fitting masks, and no cut lines in the plastic. Nice.

Also, while I'm waiting for the paint to dry, I can use the same crappy orange Supra to test the chassis fit when I'm lowering the tabs. That way, if it's too tight and cracks the front wheel wells, it wasn't the one I just spent a few days prepping and painting. I'm not tempted to fingerprint not-completely-dry paint on my good shell while I'm fussing with the chassis. Also useful when doing wheel mods.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 4:02 pm

You and crazydave use the stick, cut, peel, & stick again method.
(Though CD sticks and cuts flames on glass or something, then peels and sticks again)
I've always been leary about doing that just because I'm affraid of causing more bleed after the mask has been stuck, peeled, and stuck again.
So since you've done it, does that happen? Is there a little more "clean-up" work after as opposed to using a freshy stick?

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 5:24 pm

If you're careful and don't stretch the tape when peeling it up and burnish the edges down with a toothpick when you put it down, there's not much problem. I use a toothpick soaked in thinner to clean up any bleed.

Also, if you lay down several mist coats first, it kinda makes a seal that a heavy coat won't penetrate.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 7:21 pm

SuperFly wrote:Also, if you lay down several mist coats first, it kinda makes a seal that a heavy coat won't penetrate.

Cool. Yea I'm glad you mention that. I find that too with even just normal masking. I'm a firm believer in that and I think it's a step a lot of people either don't think about or just think is trivial.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:02 pm

SuperFly wrote:If you're careful and don't stretch the tape when peeling it up and burnish the edges down with a toothpick when you put it down, there's not much problem. I use a toothpick soaked in thinner to clean up any bleed.

Also, if you lay down several mist coats first, it kinda makes a seal that a heavy coat won't penetrate.

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 11:26 pm

My wife had (has) a side business painting murals. She has this trick where after she lays down masks, she brushes clearcoat along the edge of the mask. There's only so much stuff that can seep under the edge of a mask, and if it's clear, you won't notice it at all. Obviously a mural on a wall and painting with big brushes and rollers is different than little cars, but I think the same principle would apply. I've never done this because I don't want the hassle of cleaning my airbrush out one extra time, but I might try it some day.