PCB Swapping
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extrememicros
- bitHood
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 7:59 am
- Location: Indiana
- Contact:
PCB Swapping
Got a question.
I have a couple micro bikes left from the dozen I got for our store. Damn lil crumb snachers in the neighborhood have about wiped me out...
Thats a good thing...
But, I have two 40mhz freq bikes left. Can those pcbs be used in a bit or the like?
Anyone tried it, or is there something different about it than the car pcbs? As far as looks, they are the same size and look pretty much the same.
Holla
Eek-A-Mouse
I have a couple micro bikes left from the dozen I got for our store. Damn lil crumb snachers in the neighborhood have about wiped me out...
Thats a good thing...But, I have two 40mhz freq bikes left. Can those pcbs be used in a bit or the like?
Anyone tried it, or is there something different about it than the car pcbs? As far as looks, they are the same size and look pretty much the same.
Holla
Eek-A-Mouse
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crazydave
- bitPimp
- Posts: 6874
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 9:05 am
- Location: Koolsville
I have no experience with the bikes, but most these things have similar PCBs. I've probably swapped at leat a half dozen PCBs by now, and the only issue I've had is having to swap the steering or motor wires, but that was more due to the fact I was swapping bit boards into my Zip Zap, and wanted to stick with the Zip Zap controller.
If you're using controller that came with the the PCB then most boards are labeled L, R, F, and R. When looking down on the chassis the steering coil on the right is the one that turn it left, so you hook that to L, and vice versa. On the motor end, the ground on the can goes to the R, and the positive on the endbell, goes to F. Unless you have a funky 3 wire motor like in the Motorworks cars, then you have to swap the motor with the PCB.
The battery contacts usually come out of the car along the way, so I just transfer those to save soldering.
If you're using controller that came with the the PCB then most boards are labeled L, R, F, and R. When looking down on the chassis the steering coil on the right is the one that turn it left, so you hook that to L, and vice versa. On the motor end, the ground on the can goes to the R, and the positive on the endbell, goes to F. Unless you have a funky 3 wire motor like in the Motorworks cars, then you have to swap the motor with the PCB.
The battery contacts usually come out of the car along the way, so I just transfer those to save soldering.