bitPimps.lixlink.com

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pko_iTP4sQ[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQdCfow6 ... re=related[/youtube]

That looks great. I'd love to find one for a ZZ-M accessory. Or maybe something useful to do with the PowerScout chassis...

So, from a pic on Ebay, the Stomper sled seems to just use a string for weight box. Molded pulley at top of ramp. Probably string just fixed around forward axle? Gravity all that holds box on track?

***EDIT***
Hey, look what I found...
http://www.patentgenius.com/patent/4389810.html


Um, I guess with as often as I'm hijacking threads, I need to change my avatar to a CooperLock.

Yep, that's pretty much how they work.

Ordered this today.
http://www.microflight.com/Online-Catal ... -bare-cell
2-4 weeks delivery so I guess I've got time to mess with some other stuff on it.

Made some progress.

Take one new se chassis.


Remove pcb and battery.


Hack off front end.


Remove top cover and steering motor.


Trim till you have this left over.

Voila! One stupid low reduction box.

Did some preliminary body mock up as well.





It will sit higher and farther back than the second pic shows but you get the idea.

Progress...

Had to hack out a spot for the reduction box to sit low and forward. Without the hacking, the pinion won't mesh. I ended up reinforcing the chassis with a piece of aluminum also.


Couple of shots with final trim to fit and the tab to hold the box.




Test fit. Mesh looks good. Hope to be able to adjust it some by bending the tab.

I gotta say, I love your builds, they are really thought out.

Thanks. If I could do the same thing twice they'd go a lot faster but I'm always tweaking something.

Dude you were right, trimming the drivecups makes it way more better!

I just trimmed a set for my Tatra, slapped some electronics in, and now despite the solid axles and a 4" wheelbase, it'll turn within about 2 feet. Tires turn to just before rubbing the chassis. It's nice to have that truck move under its own power, thanks for the push.

Sweet. Glad it worked for ya.

RRB, that's the problem I had with the SE gear box. I didn't think to put it on the shaft.

So yours was skipping teeth right? Doing it this way solves that problem.

I responded to your post on RCcrawler about my problems with the SE GR. I never got to the point of testing it to know what you are talking about with the teeth missing. I wasted a micro servo and an SE trying to hack a GR box for my Willys. I just went about extracting the gear box the wrong way and was never happy with the way it looked. Hard to explain but if I had to do it over again I would definitely do it the way you've done it.

You've got me itching for another build. As soon as I finish up this Bronco scaler I've been poking around on for about a year it seems.

Okay, I thought you had installed one.

Yeah, remove it like I did and then trim the rear of the mt chassis down and you can epoxy it on top so it meshes with the drive gear. There's no real need to mount it out front like I did with this one but it will help lower cog and move weight forward. The trick is getting the mesh tight but not too tight. There's a lot of slop in the se gearbox.

Not sure if I explained this before or not. If so disregard.

Start it anyway. I've got projects in every scale going on right now. I get burnt out on one and switch to another. Just keep coming back till one's done.

Interested to see what you come up with.

frizzen wrote: ***EDIT***
Hey, look what I found...
http://www.patentgenius.com/patent/4389810.html

Funny someone patented that.