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Do you think that RS have rushed the SE's and with this they have not tested them to a great lenth as many of you seem to be having problems with them. What do you guys think.

sounds like the first round of RS zipzaps (a repeat).

nope, i have mine, and i'm very satisfied. I had steering problems (check TRC if you feel like it), but it was all pretty easily fixed, no real manual work involved. And i really dont see any other problems w/ them.

ziprc wrote:nope, i have mine, and i'm very satisfied. I had steering problems (check TRC if you feel like it), but it was all pretty easily fixed, no real manual work involved. And i really dont see any other problems w/ them.

Same here.. I haven't tried the enfini though.


silla

i have two gripes. one being the pulsed motor so less torque and two being 2.4v 70mah which is two 35mah 1.2v cells. no runtime at all. time for some tinkering. they are definatly not carpet runners.

hogjowlz wrote:i have two gripes. one being the pulsed motor so less torque and two being 2.4v 70mah which is two 35mah 1.2v cells. no runtime at all. time for some tinkering. they are definatly not carpet runners.

Actually man I think it's 2 70mah 1.2v bats stacked, but your point is right on, the runtimes stink. I think I might needs me a freakin peak charger now.

hogjowlz wrote:i have two gripes. one being the pulsed motor so less torque .

Yeah, these things ain't got nuttin for torque.. That'll be a changin real soon..


silla

they're better than what we might consider generations 1 & 2, but this 3rd generation needs improvements.
at least that's what I can tell from my savanah (sp?)

sessiz wrote:Actually man I think it's 2 70mah 1.2v bats stacked, but your point is right on, the runtimes stink. I think I might needs me a freakin peak charger now.

Use a volt meter to watch for peak. The voltage might go up and down a little, but it'll eventually drop consistantly down, and that's when you pull it. Preferably just slightly before that, but it's hard to judge at first.

I've been doing all my batteries like this for over 6 months, and after a while they get trained. Then the voltage will rise consistantly up, and consistantly down, and then you can pull it as soon as it drops a couple hundreths of a volt. Also it starts to take a higher voltage, and output a slightly higher voltage.

Coming from 1/10 scale racing, I can't say enough about how important I think peak charging is. My matched cell packs used to cost me 60-80 bucks, and that's middle of the road, the upper end ones were 150-200 bucks. So trust me, we took every precaution to maintain battery life.

I remember reading a post where someone used a volt meter to peak charge, I think it might have been your post dave.
Anyway man, how exactly would I do it?
I figure I would have to open the chassis up while charging inorder to get the reading.

sessiz wrote:I remember reading a post where someone used a volt meter to peak charge, I think it might have been your post dave.
Anyway man, how exactly would I do it?
I figure I would have to open the chassis up while charging inorder to get the reading.

I use a separater charge base, with the back off, but I want to put a couple jacks in a few of my controllers so I can just plug my probes in, and leave my hands free.

Anyways, it's all described in the post I made way back when at TRC. I keep refering to it, and preaching the word, but still feel like I'm the only one doing this.

Guess I'm no messiah.

Oh yeah, and here's the post:
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php ... eadid=7511

crazydave wrote:

sessiz wrote:I remember reading a post where someone used a volt meter to peak charge, I think it might have been your post dave.
Anyway man, how exactly would I do it?
I figure I would have to open the chassis up while charging inorder to get the reading.

I use a separater charge base, with the back off, but I want to put a couple jacks in a few of my controllers so I can just plug my probes in, and leave my hands free.

Anyways, it's all described in the post I made way back when at TRC. I keep refering to it, and preaching the word, but still feel like I'm the only one doing this.

Guess I'm no messiah.

Oh yeah, and here's the post:
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php ... eadid=7511

Thanks for the link man.
My main thing is having to hold them probes there and then constantly checkin it.

I'll worship ya dave. Can you do any tricks?

sessiz wrote: My main thing is having to hold them probes there and then constantly checkin it.

Yeah that's why I want to install a couple jacks to plug my probes into. I'm just too lazy, so I keep doing it the hard way.

Can you do any tricks?

Gimme a Zippo...

Crazydave,

I been peak charging my bats for a long time now as well. I use a charge base with a plug that matches my 1/10th peak charger. Plug it in and let it go till done, no guesswork with a meter.

bdebde wrote:Crazydave,

I been peak charging my bats for a long time now as well. I use a charge base with a plug that matches my 1/10th peak charger. Plug it in and let it go till done, no guesswork with a meter.

Yeah I wish I didn't sell my peak charger with all my 1/10th scale cars, but I'm getting good results with the meter, so I don't see the need to run out and spend another 50-100 bucks.

People were doing this at the track where I raced, and the magazine said this wasn't very highly reccomended method, because it's not as accurate, but that's was with 6 batteries, and their voltage bobbling up and down. In our case we're just watching one battery, so it's really easy to detect peak. There really is no guess work. You know when it's peaked, because the battery is warm, and the voltage just keeps going down.

If you can afford a peak charger go for it, I highly reccomend it, and it'll save you in batteries in the long run. If your on a budget like me, the volt meter will work fine, more than good enough for a dollar fifty battery.