Any pimp around here that can do repairs?

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 7:49 pm

sizzlebizzle is back in da hizzey!

I've got four problems, two of which are pretty straightforward that I could solve myself, and two that are totally out of my league. I'm wondering if there's anyone trustworthy and reliable I could mail my problem shit to and have them fix it for a fee?

Here's my issues:

By Difficulty,

EASY-49mhz 2 speed charger/controller needs re soldered in two places;
must test charger platform for fit. Solder points are already diagramed.

EASY-45 mhz chassis needs a small amount of plastic molded to the rear
axle retainer to keep the rear axle from slipping up and down on the idler gear side.

MEDIUM-3xAAA Gas Station charger needs rewired to charge or converted to a DC charger unit, connector terminals need reshaped/replaced. Ideally, a DC charger station is what I would want; I can get an adaptor if the charger can be converted to take it.

HARD-27C mhz Auldey chassis's motor needs examined and/or replaced, if possible(I have a replacement motor). It's been tested to turn fine, but the motor or wiring to it is faulty- the motor (a 2.6 or 3.0, really fast) is directly wired to the +/-wiring that normally little contact plates would be connected to. I've checked under the PCB for any questionable things and didn't see any. If the motor is bad, perhaps someone can fabricate some contact plates for the car and put them into the chassis so the problem doesn't occur again?(if so, I have a 27B/D that needs converted the same way but it works fine as is.)

I'd be willing to pay if anyone can take care of the medium and hard problems; the easy shit I can handle myself. Anyone interested in helping me out here?

stampede_dude · Post by **stampede_dude** » Sat Oct 09, 2004 12:23 pm

the ac charger idea is off the heezy man.i think you meant ac, right?for the wall plugin you mean? i was thinking that the charger takes 3 aa batteries,right? thats 3.6 v. a gameboy wall adapter is 3 v, not much off a difference, so, i could or someone else could convert it to work with the bit charger if you can suppy both and if 3 v would support our needs well enough(?) im not worried about amps or anything, because the gameboy also runs off of 2 aas. im afraid itd cost you some money for the gameboy adapter though, but i could do it. i converted a dc 12v wall wart to work with a computer fan to cool off my 1/10 during runs, so this should work.i might could replace the connector terminals or reshape them, i know i could jack the charging base off of one of my old controllers that i dont use.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?c ... d=273-1750

theres what im talking about...if you look closely, you can see it only has 2 portruding from the converter, so it should work. you could probably find a cheaper one but i couldnt find one on ebay specific enough. contact me on aim if you got it and we might can wrok something out.

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Sat Oct 09, 2004 1:21 pm

Here's a tutorial on how to make the charger. It's easy.

http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/artic ... 29&catId=1

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 9:35 pm

For shizzle, dizzzle...
Sorry to reply so late in the game, but I found out that 3xAAA (4.5v) overloaded my nimh batteries in three cars, luckily very little leaked out and the cars still run just as good as they should. Yeah, 3v is much better for the job, as I found when I rewired the terminals of the outboard charger to accept two batteries like it should. Now all I gots to do is get a 3v DC adapter between 700 and 1000ma, and I should be set.

I fixed my 49mhz controller myself, although I suck balls when it comes to soldering. I could use a new charging plate though.

Also, my 45mhz chassis rear axle mounts were filled with superglue and resurfaced, so it takes a 12:1 gear without locking up. (The car is single speed, Red normal TOMY suspension bar, 2.8 orange turbo ZZ motor- which I didn't know until recently that the cap's metal shroud came off, 200mah 1.3v battery, LXX Perfection LoPro rims and tires from the Phantom Series, good for torque runs).

Additionally, that Auldey car I had such a bitch of a time with actually had nothing wrong with it except for the fact the damn frequency is NOT 27c like it was labeled, it was 40c (40.860mhz listed on modulator)on the controller and its a mystery what the car responded to. Still no idea though as to why it turned then, cause it doesn't now. I can't return it all the way to HK, so I'll keep it as donor parts.

So it looks like all my big problems are solved for now, but I do have a new one: To remove the front wheels off of their steering knuckles on a Pullback car, what must be used to pry the goddamned nails out?

I've had a hell of a time, and I'm working on 2 cars being upgraded. I've finished a back axle, but it looks a little off center, with one wheel sitting out farther than it probably should. Oh well.

Thanks for the hit back

Post by **CaboWabo** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:15 pm

there's a bunch of different ways people use to get the pin out.
I usually just use pliers and grab the pin and pull it out.

I don't know if you've seen it yet, but this article on installing pullback wheels may help you:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/artic ... 14&catId=4

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Fri Oct 15, 2004 7:51 pm

hey now!

It's the piznimp in the flesh, yo. Your cars' pics on the site are the shiz-nite. Anyhow, I've seen the faq, and I ended up sawing through the steering knuckles because those damn ribbed nails would simply not give. I don't have any needle nose pliers at the moment so I suppose that wasn't helping, but right now it's not a problem. My issue now is to ask ('cause I gots to to know) where I can get a pullback Sprinter for the least $$ and to see if a pullack version of the super bit style RX7 FD3S ever came out. Also, I need to know if anyplace online still sells the run of Super Perfection Phantom Racing cars or Tomy Super Bit's, or even the Automodellista LXX or Tomy 2 speed cars in all frequencies. Maybe you know something perhaps? It would really help

Post by **CaboWabo** » Fri Oct 15, 2004 8:17 pm

on the sprinter pullback, I dunno what to tell ya besides google it:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=& ... r+pullback
or froogle it:
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl=en ... y+pullback

umm pretty much I dunno what to tell you on all of it except froogle it lol
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl=en ... bit+char+g

http://froogle.google.com/

sorry man

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sat Oct 16, 2004 3:31 am

if i buy bit stuff i go here: http://www.toyeast.com/index2.asp

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Sun Oct 17, 2004 5:30 pm

I usually shop at Toyeast too, but lately they've been out of stock of just about everything bit char-G. Their frontpage says they'll be restocking for the holidays, but I found dinball RC mart has most of what I'm looking for for competitive prices for now. What I need from them is a 2-speed 35 and 57 automodellista setup, the NSX pullback/body, the Lancer Evo 7, the super Bit FD3S RX7, pretty much everything except for the sprinter. Oh, well. I've got 180$ and I feel like a shopping spree!

BTW, check out my other post in a few minutes, I've got "Engine Dyno Data" for all known motors from 1.0 with 12:1 gears to 4.2 with 8.25:1 and competition ideas for what I found. Good shit, I think. Chizzeck the shiz izzout...

Post by **CaboWabo** » Sun Oct 17, 2004 9:46 pm

huh, I haven't visited this site in a long time, but saw they had LXX Auto Modellista sets
http://www.toy-island.com/lxxbitcharse.html

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 8:26 pm

I've been to toyisland, and it looks like alot of their links to their R/C's are bad or out of stock. That and they're like 7$ more than Dinball offered, although that HK shipping is a sonofabitch. I tried going to Toyeast just a minute ago and their site is down. It looks like they're just about ready for the hobby freaks (us) to come out of the woodwork... ha ha funny... although not so much.

Anyhow, I already sent an order for the wrc lancer 7 body, the mobil1 nsx-r body, the gloria dual body set, the r32 pullback, 35, 45, and 57mhz 2-speed LXX cars, and my dream RX7 super bit char-G kit, all for $110.38. Expensive, but like Microsizers/Panther will ever be up to date against imports, that's a good one.

If I'm lucky, ToyEast'll be back with the whole Phantom lineup so I can complete the frequency band of racing to 10 cars, 'cause I'm missing 27 B and C and 40 B and C. I also need more 200mah batteries and heatsinks, as well as some more 4.2 motors (none of that tan E/King shit, it's all teal pro for me) and finally the Sprinter body and some suspension pieces. I'll have a full collection then, leaving room only for more pullbacks and bodies. I've already invested over 250$ in this hobby, and another 150$ should top it off until a third generation of shit comes out, but that's years away. Who knows, maybe they'll have 4WD and limited slip differentials for real drifting?

payaso · Post by **payaso** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 9:39 pm

I miss makin orders like that...

You'll be set when that stuff comes in....

silla

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 8:07 pm

Props for your custom rides(Payaso Porsche), they are the shit.

I hear ya, although I get the feeling I will start to want more and more. Just today I got a mad craving for a Ferrari Testarossa Super Bit kit, and if I can get the body, I'd rather do that. It all has to do with my love for Miami Vice and GTA:VC and GTA:SA about to come out. I have a question for you:
Has anyone on these forums tried to make injection molds to copy car bodies with any success? If not, I wonder if I should research and try it. I sure could use 20 911GT2 bodies, couldn't you, especially if engineering the mold was cheap and the bodies were free?

hit me back on the flipside, blood...
(Jive speak)