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ZipZap SE: New Car Won't Steer
Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:25 pm
by JoeyRoland
I'm not too sure if this is the proper place to post this. It might go in the FAQ section or even the Performance Shop question, but since it doesn't deal with any mods or anything like that [yet], I'm posting it here. I apologize if a mod has to move it. 
As for the actual post...
I bought a ZipZap SE from eBay. The seller has a great feedback and the car was advertised as new. When I received it, it was completely new and still sealed in the ZipZap packaging. I bought new batteries for it and everything. Obviously, I was excited to say the least.
I put the little ZZ together, installed the batteries, and charged it for the first time. The car accelerates/ reverses without a hitch. But, as for the steering, that's another story. Unfortunately, the car won't steer at all! 
I've tried tinkering with the steering alignment located on the back of the controller as well as the one located on the bottom of the little chassis... but to no avail.
My question is, is there something I'm missing?
I contacted the seller and she said I can return it. But I probably won't get my initial shipping back and will probably eat the shipping to return it. Considering that the car was only $15, it might just be in my best interest to keep it for the body and spare parts. I'm just holding out hope that there's something I'm missing. But I've combed through the ZipZap sight, (no troubleshooting), and reread the instructions countless times. I even thought to get a new one from RadioShack, switch the chassis, and return the damaged one. But since no RS around me even sells any of the SE's, that's not even an option.
Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:42 pm
by Maxximum Attack
You may have to crack it open and check for broken wires
In your case it might be too much hassle to send it back, it may be better to heat the soldering iron and prepare for surgery
Wait and see what some of the others say...
Maxx
Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:59 pm
by ibjamn
I gotta ask, have you tried the steering with the body off? Some bodies fit too tight and bind the steering arm/slide.
One other thing, does it return to center or make a noise if you manually steer/ force the wheels in either direction? If so, maybe the controller is bad?
Otherwise, I agree with Maxx. check the the wires.
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:15 am
by crazydave
ibjamn wrote:I gotta ask, have you tried the steering with the body off?
Good call on that one, i wasn't thinking of that. I've had bodies bend the front end of the chassis up causing binding. Other than that my first guess would have to be broken wire. Those wires are too damn thin.
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:06 pm
by JoeyRoland
Thanks for the replies guys!
Unfortunately, I did try it without the body but no luck.
As for the steering, when I messed with the calibration on the bottom of the car, with the wheels straight, I would hit the accelerate trigger and the wheels would immediately shift to one side but then not respond when I tried steering.
Did that make sense?
Another question: On eBay, I saw a replacement body/remote for a 27Mhz ZipZap. It's not SE, which I was kind of trying for, but since the body adapts, would I be able to buy this, throw the GT body on it, and still race it against other ZipZap SEs?
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:34 pm
by crazydave
JoeyRoland wrote:Thanks for the replies guys!
Unfortunately, I did try it without the body but no luck.
As for the steering, when I messed with the calibration on the bottom of the car, with the wheels straight, I would hit the accelerate trigger and the wheels would immediately shift to one side but then not respond when I tried steering.
Did that make sense?
Another question: On eBay, I saw a replacement body/remote for a 27Mhz ZipZap. It's not SE, which I was kind of trying for, but since the body adapts, would I be able to buy this, throw the GT body on it, and still race it against other ZipZap SEs?
That sounds to me like the steering is shorting on the motor wires. Sometimes those thin wires get so smashed under there, the insulation will split and short the wire out on something. I actually had a car that did the same exact thing. Try pulling it apart and see if it works with the with PCB removed, but still attached. If it works like that, just be very careful how you arrange the wires when you put it back together. If that don't work try examining the the point where the wires meet the PCB, and see if maybe there is any extra solder between the connections.
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 4:19 pm
by steelwoolghandi
If that does not work send the broken car for me and I will pray over it. (I will keep it but the prayer will be for your next car to work)!
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 4:22 pm
by Hyperacme
One of my ZZ's had a wire pinched between the PCB and the screw that holds it down.
Bare wire showing but no ill effects on operation.
Taped it ... Rerouted it...Seems to still work OK.
My SE was a BEAR to get dialed in...Still no perfect.
I perfer the new ones (McQueen/Sally/Mater) over the SE's.
IMHO much easyer to control and no touchy steering set up.
But...I've only been messing with them for less then a month.
Pop the top and start digging in...
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 8:40 pm
by JoeyRoland
Well steelwoolghandi, I might take you up on your offer. 
I took as much apart as I could but still nothing. As for the wires, I didn't see any loose ones. I even went ahead and pulled on them [just a bit] to see if any where loose and/or disconnected. Nothing.
Also, per your suggestion, crazydave, I went ahead and removed the PCB and tried firing it up. No luck there either. I think I'm resigned to just keeping it for the body and even the spare part, i.e. motor, wheels, tires.
Now, for another question, (surprise ), if I buy another SE and then get an older standard 27MHz, does anyone know if it will work?
Lastly, thanks for all your help! I appreciate all the advice. Heck, I'm sure it's probably fixable - but with a more skilled hand.
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 9:15 pm
by Hyperacme
Not sure I understand your question...
But...
My SE controller will NOT work with my NEW standard (McQueen/Sally/Mater) cars or trucks.
Any body should fit on any SE / Standard / Old / New car or truck bottom.
OK now I have a question...
Do new (McQueen/Sally/Mater) controllers work with old NonSE's cars?
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:06 am
by JoeyRoland
Sorry, I should've rephrased that better. I meant to ask if you could race a SE and a standard 27MHz ZipZap at the same time?
I had no idea that the new ones from the Cars movie had different controllers. Me thinks I'm getting an idea....
Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:24 am
by crazydave
Hyperacme wrote:
Do new (McQueen/Sally/Mater) controllers work with old NonSE's cars?
Yes they do, and they also work with the MTs. In fact you could use a Nikko controller, or a non turbo SuperSlicks controller with standard (non-propo) Zip Zaps. I've taken to useing the controller from the 1/25th SuperSlicks MTs, because I prefer a pistol grip controller.
You can race a 27mhz SE with another car of the same frequency You may encounter some interference from one of the SE's subfrequencies, but you have 5 other subfrequencies to work with.
Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:23 pm
by jordanQ
Does it make a noise when you steer? (Put it up to your ear)