Formula car

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 6:45 pm

Arfin and Civics; It's not as uncontrolable as you think. It's got a much wider rear wheel base and the chassis is streched a little too. Ultra sticky smooth tires are the key though.

I can't say it's easy to drive though

. You see, I went through great pains to make sure the wheels turn smoothly. When you get the back wheels turning really fast, the slightest warp in the body or a wheel or even a millimeter bump in the tire could send a bit flying to one side. These tires are actually more smooth than a stock bit and are positioned precisely on a chassis that has already been tested to make sure it's not warped or anything. I'm refering to my home-brewed test; Push down on the top of the car gently and push it forward very quickly. If it turns to one side consistantly, then something's up and it wont make a good high-speed car without fixing one of the many problems it could be. I usually take the problem cars and turn them into fetted one cell cars for small track racing. They work fine in that capacity.

BODIES AND TIRES ARE FROM http://www.ncphobbies.com/164slotcar.html
The tires are WIZZARD LAWs
Although you could make your own silongies like this;
http://www.oldweirdherald.com/scalestuff/silongies/

CrazyDave; The kokam 145mah can put out 1 amp continuously and 1.3 amps in short bursts. I don't know how much the motor is currently pulling. I'm not sure how to check it. It's been a while since I picked up my multimeter, and I think there's a trick to motor testing in a bit. If you tell me how, I can give it a go.

Steel; The decals are on the outside.

I honestly can't wait to get this thing on the open road/patient waiting area. I'm planning the big day for Monday. Should be able to get the vid up Tuesday. I might get it done sooner, schedule permitting.

Thanx for all the input.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Mon Nov 14, 2005 9:38 pm

Well, finally got the video. Sorry for the delay.

I had to test drive this a little before I started getting video footage. I ended up changing the front wheels to sticky. It drives much smoother that way.

Also, I'll have to let you know, trying to start out with boost is rediculous. In the video, you'll notice that I tap the gas a little to get it going and then wait to get up to speed before punching the boost.

Well, without further adue;
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... 350&pos=18
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... 350&pos=20
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... 350&pos=21
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... 350&pos=22

Then there was a slight altercation with a post;
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... 350&pos=17

He's fine though.

The nice thing about this car is that the body gives way when it hits something. It works like a bumper. When it really smacks something like that post, the body takes all the impact and flies off keeping the chassis mostly protected.

ALTHOUGH, I ended up smacking a wall at full speed and did this;

It's ok though. No wires were damaged and it only needs a little work and it will be back on the road. I've also got another body for it that I just clear coated tonight. You'll see that and some better footage soon. I figured out a good way to get steady footage of this.

ALSO, notice the tires in this picture;

The silicon is coming off. I don't think these tires were made to go this fast.(?) This is only after about an hour of driving. Anyhow, the tires are still performing great, even though the silicon is almost off. Interesting.

Anyway, he's got some good battle scars to prove his worthyness.

canabits · Post by **canabits** » Sat Nov 19, 2005 11:11 am

re:silicone coated foam tires

Silicone is very thin. running them on anything but a 'smooth' HO slotcar track will wear them out in no time. On a high performance HO car they'll last a few races.

One way to prolong there life is to touch up the silicone. You can pick up some flowable silicone at Wal-Mart in the automotive section (windshield silicone). Put a little onto the tire and spin it then set aside to dry. If it's only a small section it's easier, just coat, get as smooth as possible and let dry overnight. If you are coating a whole tire definitely spin off excess and repeat the coating/spin process 3-4 times to get a good amount of silicone onto the tire. This works well if you want to mount foam to another rim but get the stick of silicone (foam pen grips work well).

Not only does Wizzard have the tires, he also makes and stocks alot of different bodies.

http://www.wizzardho.com/Products14.htm

You can get some neat pre-cut paint masks for HO bodies as well

http://www.wizzardho.com/BeachCustoms.htm

edit: HO lexan bodies can look pretty good with a little work. http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... toyota.jpg

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Sat Nov 19, 2005 8:07 pm

Thanx Canabits. That's some good info.

Yeah, definately going to have to recoat the silicon.

I tried running it today and it was a different story. The silicon stopped gripping and it started spinning out alot. Already have the silicon for the job waiting. I would say I got about an hours worth of use out of those tires before needing to be recoated. I kept the back wheels removable in this car for a reason. I have an extra set of wizard silongies. I'll mount them on another axle and have them as a back up set. That way I'll have two sets of rear tires to mess with, so I can get twice the run time before recoating them.

Also, one of the back wheels came off. Kinda crazy though because I used 5 minute epoxy on those. Oh-well, the beast needs to be taken care of. Such is the life of a suped up bit.

Did a little check on motor, fet and battery heat. The motor starts to heat up a little, but the other components are staying cool. That's exactly what I want. This car should keep running for a long time as long as I keep up on the tire maintenance.

Also, Canabits, I looked at the red HO body. That looks pretty sweet. Too low to fit on a bit, but still a very nice looking body. Where is that car from?

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sat Nov 19, 2005 10:17 pm

wow!! canabits!

nice to hear from you bruvva

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 8:00 am

HACHI-RYOKU wrote: When you get the back wheels turning really fast, the slightest warp in the body or a wheel or even a millimeter bump in the tire could send a bit flying to one side.

That's the problem I had with my prostocker car. I used alloys in the rear because I could get them nice and true (to the eye anyways), I used pullback tires and they gave me plenty of grip, but it wants to launch itself and becaome airborn. I think the wheels are too heavy, lighter wheels would make it less noticable if it was unbalanced.

CrazyDave; The kokam 145mah can put out 1 amp continuously and 1.3 amps in short bursts. I don't know how much the motor is currently pulling. I'm not sure how to check it. It's been a while since I picked up my multimeter, and I think there's a trick to motor testing in a bit. If you tell me how, I can give it a go.

I can't get good amp readings from my cheap ass multi-meter, I need to invest in a new one, someday, but here Namuna tells us how he got his readings of motor draw.

I was actually wondering how many volts those batteries put out, but you're accurate in that current draw reflects more on the final speed.

Just watched your vids, and I think I can take ya for the first 8ft. I never seen what my car will do past 8ft, so I don't know after that.

That's exactly the kind surface and area I need.

canabits · Post by **canabits** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 12:13 am

HACHI-RYOKU wrote:Also, Canabits, I looked at the red HO body. That looks pretty sweet. Too low to fit on a bit, but still a very nice looking body. Where is that car from?

The red body is a Toyota painted by a quite well known HO body painter/detailer named Bruce Beaulieu. Decals are applied to the inside of the shell then painted over. Really slick and suprisingly durable.
edit: The body is/was made by David Rothwell (Rothwell Authentic Body Shells). I say was as I'm not sure if David is still making them. If they are you can get them through Scale Auto.

Hey betty.k! been a long time. Been sorta busy

We've been working on getting my a$$ downunda for more than a short visit

If everything goes as planned, this time next year I'll be posting from my new home in Melbourne.

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 12:19 am

canabits wrote: If everything goes as planned, this time next year I'll be posting from my new home in Melbourne.

fo rizzle?!

bitchin!

canabits · Post by **canabits** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 12:25 am

fo rizzle!

Just waiting on a few final details and will be submitting the immigration application sometime in Dec. Told the girlfriend we'd go if she got homesick...that time has come.

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:32 am

aww well it could take years! our government doesn't like people from countries that don't support the death penalty or start wars

Nasphere · Post by **Nasphere** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:55 am

HACHI-RYOKU wrote:I don't know how much the motor is currently pulling. I'm not sure how to check it. It's been a while since I picked up my multimeter, and I think there's a trick to motor testing in a bit. If you tell me how, I can give it a go.

If you still need help on this: Remove one motor wire. Connect one test lead to the motor, the other goes to the PCB, basically both leads go where you removed the wire... Set the meter to "amps" or mA and whatever range applies. Run the bit with the wheels off the ground, take a reading. Run it with the wheels on brake, take another reading...

heh, not sure if this helps cause it's fairly simple lol...

i love your car dude!!

freakin beautiful!

I will have to put up a tutorial on how to dual cell a bit, but with lipo cells

HAHA!!