AE86

skylinekid · Post by **skylinekid** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 7:13 pm

payaso wrote:Fuckin A man. I love it... One thing though. (I know, I can't keep my trap shut) The inner dish needs some contrasting paint/color to set off those photo etched hubs (make them bitches pop).. Maybe the same color the car is.. Just a thought.

Nicely done 86

silla

Dit-toe to all that shit right there, I think paysos got it right on about them rims, But other than that, that shit is pimp

Tuner1989 · Post by **Tuner1989** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 7:18 pm

payaso wrote:Fuckin A man. I love it... One thing though. (I know, I can't keep my trap shut) The inner dish needs some contrasting paint/color to set off those photo etched hubs (make them bitches pop).. Maybe the same color the car is.. Just a thought.

Nicely done 86

silla

Ditto on the hubs.

Nice job on the 86 overall man that thing is killer!

And purple!

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 12:53 am

wow! you were right, it don't scrape! (just)

really excellent work, nothing but smooth floors for that baby!

Zenith · Post by **Zenith** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 1:03 am

Awesome work man. I love the color and the look of the wheels, but I too think they could use some paint or something to set them off. Polish maybe? And that huge wing somehow just looks right like that. As for decals, maybe just TRD logos or windsheild banners.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 5:40 am

Thanx for all you imput pimps. You're right about the rims. A good deep color on the inside would really bring it out. Although, I have to be honest. I don't think I'll do it because I don't want to mess up anything. Getting to those inner dishes would be a job. Not an extremely difficult job, but I have other cars I would like to get working on. If I screw up the allignment on the rims, I'l be spending more time getting them right again. It's running so smooth now, I'd rather not.

So, I'll remember the tip for the next thing I put out. I still need to put a lithium cell in a ZZ. I've got a blue SS motor (30,000rpm) that's begging to get used for that as well. This combination with a different set of alloys would kick ass. It would make a good entry for the end of the year contest.

Now I just need to look through my ZZ shells and see which one wants to be modded next.

steelwoolghandi · Post by **steelwoolghandi** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 10:09 am

Now I just need to look through my ZZ shells and see which one wants to be modded next.

Do I hear end of the year Blowout Contest Winner???

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 1:13 pm

The body work is not really my style, but it is cool, because it does totally remind me of some of the stuff I've seen from Japan, and I guess that's your thing, so I won't knock it. It is very nicely executed.

I think I have those same wheels. If so, then I think the gold gives the centers a nice sparkly contrast.

It looks like you've narrowed the front one in a similar fashion that I did to some of my alloys. Could use a little finishing, I'd reccomend rubbing them out on some 800 grit, then 1000 grit sandpaper. They'll be baby butt smooth.

I love what you done with the chassis!!!

If you don't mind, I want to copy all of that, the way you cut out the bottom of the chassis, lowering the center of gravity, and kept that second cell layed way back. That's greatness. I like the brass tube idea too, is that something you got from you're LHS? And I've already seen what dual cells, FETs and a Super Slick motor will do first hand, so I know that thing is moving

So that looks like it would have to be about the best handling dual cell bit I've seen, next to a Zip Zap. How does it handle? Does it keep all that speed under control, or is it still flipping and going all nuts and stuff?

Another thing I might suggest, that I haven't tried, but I've been thinking of, and figure you can pull it off because you already got the brass tubing. Anyways, there's a lot of slop on that center gear, I was thinking that could be eliminated by putting the gear on an axle, and have axle spin in bushings.

frizzen · Post by **frizzen** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:36 pm

That thing looks wicked!! The spoiler is really growing on me, and those rims really bring it all together. Seeing it on a chassis really helps.

Man, does that make anybody else want some Tofu?

Zenith · Post by **Zenith** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:51 pm

frizzen wrote:Man, does that make anybody else want some Tofu?

Me

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:07 pm

You can use anything you want.

The brass tubing came from a hobby store in Japan. It was a while ago and I can't remember what it was used for. It may have been for scale train stuff.

Get this, it does not flip and takes off straight. I put medium or slick tires in the front and sticky in the back. It will spin out before it flips, but with a little practice you can control the spins or just slow the turn down. I'm using a 2 stage pcb, which is key for this I believe. I think the battery position, the drop job and the wheel configuration take the credit for not flipping. Although it could be a little higher and not flip. If I put sticky tires on the front, it will most likely flip. The picture shows sticky tires because it blends better with the rear tires. For racing/running around I switch the tires.

On a side note, some other cars of mine with the same set up spin out all over the place. I test the chassis now before I begin modding. For the test, I set the car on a table, apply a little weight with my finger and push it forward quickly. If the tires turn to one side I don't do anything more than a fet mod. If they stay straight, I give it the works.

I might try your idea for the middle gear slop. I normally just adjust the motor down more. This brings the pinion gear down which puts pressure on the middle gear, which moves it down slightly, etc., etc., viola, less slop. If you're mounting a SS motor like I mount mine it's easy. Notice I have two pieces of wire holding the motor on. If I want to make small adjustments I utilize these wires by twisting them tighter to pull one side of the motor down more. Adjust until you get the desired results. Also, for really bad slop, I bend the middle gear's pin down slightly. With these two adjustments, I can get really smooth running gears out of almost anything. Does this make sense? I could post pics if you need.

I've definately learned from this alloy job. The next one should be perfect.

edit Yeah, I have to make a tofu shop decal for this one. I can't skip that one.

Tuner1989 · Post by **Tuner1989** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 7:18 pm

Mmmmmmmmm. tofu

Cant wait to see what hot ride you suprise us with next!

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Mon Oct 03, 2005 9:07 am

HACHI-RYOKU wrote: On a side note, some other cars of mine with the same set up spin out all over the place. I test the chassis now before I begin modding. For the test, I set the car on a table, apply a little weight with my finger and push it forward quickly. If the tires turn to one side I don't do anything more than a fet mod. If they stay straight, I give it the works.

Its funny, I do the same test, but with the opposite thinking. If it rolls perfect, with the steering adjuster centered, then I leave it. Don't want to screw anything up. I just FET mod it and run a fast motor and teal gears. The less than perfect cars get the works, because by the time I tweak on it, I can usually adjust whatever he problem was.

I might try your idea for the middle gear slop. I normally just adjust the motor down more. This brings the pinion gear down which puts pressure on the middle gear, which moves it down slightly, etc., etc., viola, less slop. If you're mounting a SS motor like I mount mine it's easy. Notice I have two pieces of wire holding the motor on. If I want to make small adjustments I utilize these wires by twisting them tighter to pull one side of the motor down more. Adjust until you get the desired results. Also, for really bad slop, I bend the middle gear's pin down slightly. With these two adjustments, I can get really smooth running gears out of almost anything. Does this make sense? I could post pics if you need.

Thanks for the suggestions on the slop issue. I've noticed that if I push the motor down farther, it does make it run smoother, but the center gear is still has quite a bit of movement in it. I never thought to bend the pin down, I got several cars that might benefit from that.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:11 pm

You might want to glue the pin in place afterwards. I do that to some. It may not need it though.

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:28 pm

Doesn't bending the idler gear pin cause it to spin on a diagonal axis? Seems like that would cause more meshing problems than it would solve.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:34 pm

Not if you only bend it a little. I was skeptical at first too, but it worked out perfectly. The pin actually has enough left over room between the gear and the pin that it works.

Technically, you could say I'm still increasing resistance, no matter how slight, but you're also decreasing vibration significantly.