Stolen Car
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- bitGangsta'
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- Location: Sugar Land, TX
Stolen Car
My car recently caught on fire(stolen) and was taken to a chop shop here are the pictures of what was left of it when it was found. pics here at the bottom
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- bitGangsta'
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- kwikbb
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oh damn that suks man, is that the result of the battery incid3nt?
almost did the same shit today to my dual bit-zap, left it on the 4 AA charger and went to check my email... well about 7-8 min. went by and i realized theat the car was still on the charger! I was like NOOOO! and ran to my car and popped the PCB cover off and pulled the batteries, which we're nice and toasty by now!
Wheww too close of a call for me, really gotta invest in a peak charger soon.

almost did the same shit today to my dual bit-zap, left it on the 4 AA charger and went to check my email... well about 7-8 min. went by and i realized theat the car was still on the charger! I was like NOOOO! and ran to my car and popped the PCB cover off and pulled the batteries, which we're nice and toasty by now!
Wheww too close of a call for me, really gotta invest in a peak charger soon.


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- bitGangsta'
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Damn, that's hardcore.
I had a battery pop, but it wasn't that bad.
I had a Motorworks car that the battery popped the second time I charged it, using the 45-sec. timed charger. I blame it on the 3 battery 4.5 volt charger that it came with, and the "Maximum Plus", overpriced extended life batteries I used, because they were all I could find at the end of every aisle. The first time I ran it, it ran like it's ass was on fire. The second time I went to charge it, it went, "Pop!, ...fizzzle". I got it off the charger right away, and grey stuff had oozed out of the battery. I got a replacement, and never had a problem again. I think because the batteries in the charger had been worn down a bit. Also, I had seen on a British bit website, that they reccomended not to use "extended life" batteries in Bit controllers to charge. Extended life batteries have a higher mah rating (milli-amp hours) which means they can push higher mA for a longer period of time. So I'm guessing that your problem is similar, and you pushed too many amps when you charged your battery that first time. Unless maybe you left it unattended in trickle charge mode, and your charger happens to not monitor peak in trickle mode. Could have just been a defective battery.
At any rate, I watch my batteries with a volt meter, and keep checking the temp of the chassis on my lip. When the voltage starts to drop it's toasty warm, but not hot. I think I get fairly accurate peaks that way, because my runs just get better.
I had a battery pop, but it wasn't that bad.
I had a Motorworks car that the battery popped the second time I charged it, using the 45-sec. timed charger. I blame it on the 3 battery 4.5 volt charger that it came with, and the "Maximum Plus", overpriced extended life batteries I used, because they were all I could find at the end of every aisle. The first time I ran it, it ran like it's ass was on fire. The second time I went to charge it, it went, "Pop!, ...fizzzle". I got it off the charger right away, and grey stuff had oozed out of the battery. I got a replacement, and never had a problem again. I think because the batteries in the charger had been worn down a bit. Also, I had seen on a British bit website, that they reccomended not to use "extended life" batteries in Bit controllers to charge. Extended life batteries have a higher mah rating (milli-amp hours) which means they can push higher mA for a longer period of time. So I'm guessing that your problem is similar, and you pushed too many amps when you charged your battery that first time. Unless maybe you left it unattended in trickle charge mode, and your charger happens to not monitor peak in trickle mode. Could have just been a defective battery.
At any rate, I watch my batteries with a volt meter, and keep checking the temp of the chassis on my lip. When the voltage starts to drop it's toasty warm, but not hot. I think I get fairly accurate peaks that way, because my runs just get better.
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