bitPimps.lixlink.com

Fellas, you know me, if it ain't got electricity in it I'm clueless....

This shell was the clear one that came in the Lxx auto modellista set along with the yellow supra shell, I have no idea what it is....

Basically I masked the windows first and then sprayed a few coats of blue. After that I did the silver lines with tape again. Did a clear gloss on top of that but I thinks it starts to eat through.







Cheers,

ph2t.

looks pretty alrite homey.

Looks damn good for your first time out Pimp!
The more you practice, the better you'll get!

Looks like a Mazda RX7 to me. I know what you mean by the clearcoating. I sprayed some pullback wheels with a Chrome/silver paint, then painted the insides to match the scheme of the car (my trademark) and left the lips the chrome color. Sprayed a clearcoat on them and the chrome/silver paint turned gray. Pissed me off after all that detailing I did on them. The type of paint I used I guess didn't play well with the clear. Both paints were enamel too ??????

Hey, for not being into the arty stuff, that pretty damn good.

The best way to apply clear coat, especially if you have decals, or graphics, is to lay like 3 light mister coats, then lay a couple heavier coats, but not too heavy. The mist coats might seem a little bumpy, especially if your painting when it's warm, but the heavy coats will melt them and level it out.

nice work ph2t!
what crazydave says is the best approach.
Also, golds and silvers seem to be the hardest colors to clear coat without altering their "glitter", just takes practice. And some paints just do not accept clearcoat. We should also mention that some paints don't mix well with others (ie flats with enamals)

I like it dude... They're all right about the clear coat with silver.. Most cans of clear coat will say on the side to not spray over silver or gold or some metalics..

I think we all learned that one the hard way..


silla

Thanks for the feedback pimps. The sprays say they are quick dry, but how long ideally should I leave the shell to dry between coats? Also does anyone cut back between coats? Burnish/cut the finish first with some fine 00 steelwool? Use 600+ wet n dry sandpaper? etc, etc,....

DT, same happened to me man with tha fin at the back.

Yo crazy thanks for the tip, I was thinking about that but wasn't sure, it's good so see that it works.


Cheers fellas,

ph2t.

I only wet-sand when I have to do body work (fill in gaps, make new pieces, etc.) to smooth it out.
The lighter of coat of paint you spray, the less time it will take to dry. I like spraying light coats, I'd rather spray 3 light coats to cover the car in the color rather than spray on a heavy coat that runs, etc.
So with my light coats, if I'm impatient (most of the time) I let it dry for an hour or two. Since I'm so impatient, I started working on several bodies at once - this way I leave one dry overnight while I'm detailing another.

Nice job Ph2t.

oh hell yeah! way ta reprezent ph2t, nice 1st... cherri's popped

lol! Thanks kiwk!



ph2t.

Ok, here's the same shell cleaned up and turped out.

My first attempt at flames using dave's method. I gotta say that the clear gloss was a lot better tis time thanks to dave's suggestions. I chucked a crappy decal on top for practice. Gettin' there fellas.....



Oh yeah, the car is black with a silver undercoat.

ph2t.

right on ph2t!
I fear trying to cut out the flames masks...

good job dude!

Yeah I had trouble as well. The front flame job is crap, I was just trying a few methods. At the moment I cut out the flames onto paper and then trace them onto tape. I don't have a printer at home so that's my method. The problem with that is with every re-trace, the error increases. Oh well, gettin' there.

I told you Ph2t, it's not that hard, just takes practice. You got the tech stuff down now you Pimpin Da Paint.