My Pimped out Audi TT
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My Pimped out Audi TT
waddup pimps
Here is my zzse Audi TT body that i just finished last night. Yes i know i did a bad job on the body kit but this is my first attempt at modifying a zz/bit body and i didnt really have the right putty
Anyways, heres the pics
cut out pieces from a card and glued them on

Puttied then painted

Final product


Here is my zzse Audi TT body that i just finished last night. Yes i know i did a bad job on the body kit but this is my first attempt at modifying a zz/bit body and i didnt really have the right putty
Anyways, heres the pics
cut out pieces from a card and glued them on

Puttied then painted

Final product

Go Kimi
- hue35
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- crazydave
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Yep, you should've just took more time to sand before painting. Kind of a waste of a nice paint job.
You can find emery boards with the nail care stuff at your local grocery store, for less than a buck. They work great for shaping. Get some fine grit sandpaper, at least as fine as 400 grit to finish.
With just a little extra effort that could be looking clean.
You can find emery boards with the nail care stuff at your local grocery store, for less than a buck. They work great for shaping. Get some fine grit sandpaper, at least as fine as 400 grit to finish.
With just a little extra effort that could be looking clean.

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- bitPimp
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- bitPimp
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How long did you let it cure? 10 minutes?Dougboy wrote:its not that im too lazy to sand and shape it. I did not have the right putty and the crap i had was kinda mushy even when dried so sanding didnt workI will get better putty for my next body

What kind of putty did you use? Silly putty?

Don't sweat it. We're here for open and honest communication. We won't tell you its great when it sucks ass, and vise versa.

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Everyone's gotta start some where.
Chalk it up to a learning experience.
Now you know not to use that kind of putty, whatever that kind was.
Chalk it up to a learning experience.
Now you know not to use that kind of putty, whatever that kind was.
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
- Bart
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yea all it take is time man. Patience is key. Im working on my first project and it's a shitload of sanding
to make it look right. I'm not sure what the other pimps are using but I'm using Tamiya Basic Type Putty and it works fine for me. Apply it but wait like at least 30-60min for it to cure. You'll know when its cured cuz it sands real easily. Well not bad for a first. The Paint job looks fine.. I hope mine turns out that well

Bart
Pimpin Customz
Established July 27 2006
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Pimpin Customz
Established July 27 2006
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Homies: Tennishoe Pimp, Shaneequa, Whisper
- SuperFly
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That's what I use.Bart wrote:I'm not sure what the other pimps are using but I'm using Tamiya Basic Type Putty and it works fine for me. Apply it but wait like at least 30-60min for it to cure.
And yeah, I probably go through 3-4 rounds of adding putty, sanding and shaping, primer coat, repeat before I lay down the paint.
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- BilboBaggins
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I use two different putty's when working on bodies and models.
1. Green Airplane Putty that comes in a tube. Dries quickly when laid in thin coats.
2. Games Workshop Epoxy Putty (Called Green Stuff). It a strip of putty in two colors (usually yellow and blue) that have to be kneaded together to activate (hence GREEN STUFF). It has a longer work time and can be laid a little thicker for filling gaps but it takes a day (or more) to fully harden to sand. It can shapes using a blade (they sell shaping tools for it) just have to keep the tool wet or the putty will stick to it and you'll never get it right.
I've been know to putty, sand, and then prime to see my mistakes then putty and sand again. For some reason the Krylon gray primer shows all the errors to help out this little Hobbit.
I've also found when gluing to plastic pieces together some glues (Example: Games Workshop Plastic Glue) will melt the pieces of plastic together to form a bond. if you put a little too much glue down it can fill the seams and be filed/sanded smooth later. I've used this method on most of my front air dams (piling several layers of styrene on top of each other to get the height right.)
I usually use gray primer but if you are going to a brighter final color use White primer.
1. Green Airplane Putty that comes in a tube. Dries quickly when laid in thin coats.
2. Games Workshop Epoxy Putty (Called Green Stuff). It a strip of putty in two colors (usually yellow and blue) that have to be kneaded together to activate (hence GREEN STUFF). It has a longer work time and can be laid a little thicker for filling gaps but it takes a day (or more) to fully harden to sand. It can shapes using a blade (they sell shaping tools for it) just have to keep the tool wet or the putty will stick to it and you'll never get it right.
I've been know to putty, sand, and then prime to see my mistakes then putty and sand again. For some reason the Krylon gray primer shows all the errors to help out this little Hobbit.
I've also found when gluing to plastic pieces together some glues (Example: Games Workshop Plastic Glue) will melt the pieces of plastic together to form a bond. if you put a little too much glue down it can fill the seams and be filed/sanded smooth later. I've used this method on most of my front air dams (piling several layers of styrene on top of each other to get the height right.)
I usually use gray primer but if you are going to a brighter final color use White primer.
Sitting at my workbench in my comfortable little Hobbit hole.
- crazydave
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That's pretty much what I do.BilboBaggins wrote:I've also found when gluing to plastic pieces together some glues (Example: Games Workshop Plastic Glue) will melt the pieces of plastic together to form a bond. if you put a little too much glue down it can fill the seams and be filed/sanded smooth later. I've used this method on most of my front air dams (piling several layers of styrene on top of each other to get the height right.)
Just superglue, Zip Zaps packaging, and a lot of sanding, no putty here.

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