my daily driver...

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 12:49 am

here's my current daily driver, my micro-t.

too many mods to list, lol..

-rippers exo-t chassis
-losi bearings
-losi 14t pinion
-GWS RLC IPS motor (beefy)
-super lubed gearbox
-hot racing daytona rear tyres
-xmod shock springs
-nelly turbo
-guitar string antenna
-alloy rear a-arm mount
-ball linkages all 'round

-too many battery options....lol

this one's my fav at the moment...

and with the powerhouses...

-7.4V 210mAh lipo
-4.8V 300mAh nimh
-7.2V 200mAh nimh

She's like a cat, totally pwns the concrete driveway and front garden and doesn't let anything get in her way.

ph2t.

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:37 am

Damn.

Did you fit the nelly to the stock REC/ESC unit?
If you did than that thing can handle 7.2/7.4 volts? Trying to take it to warp speed.

What's next, afterburners?

It is very cool.

Are you still running the stock body or did you get an after-market one from Parma or BRP.

Too much work for me, for where I run I like mine stock. I'm just going to up the top speed with gearing on mine.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:56 am

BilboBaggins wrote:If you did than that thing can handle 7.2/7.4 volts?

They should handle 7.2v stock, or at least they better, considering Losi released a 7.2v lipo for it.

Very nice ph2t... I've got bearings in mine.

I like that chassis, how much do those run? Those tires also look like they might be the gig for carpet. Mini-pins have a little too much bite. Tell us more about this "super lubed gearbox".

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Fri Apr 06, 2007 4:29 pm

@bilbo, yes nelly is on the stock PCB. The Micro-T PCB has a similar MOSFET arrangement as all other 1:28 cars. It just comes as a "2x2" stack stock. See me 'tronics thread at rippers for more info along those lines: http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/ ... .php?t=503

yes the stock LOSI setup will take lipo not a problem. You will also NOT have any servo chatter

. It's "officialy" designed to go 7.4V,lol....

If you've gone brushless you could easily push the 'lil buggers onto 11.1V

Still running the stock body:

The front mount hole had to be lengthed by about 8mm. The rear hole is stock. I had to trim the rear left part of the sheel (that drops behind the rear wheel) to accomodate the longer IPS motor.

Also the front part of the shell that sits over the front shocks now was trimmed back a bit as well, not much, just a little...Just to ensure the shock coils didn't bind against it.

@Dave. lol @ bearings, you go girl!

The tyres are great. less wear in the long run but nice n grippy on the concrete. Should go well on carpet.

The chassis is about $15 think from rippers, but I've got a spare I don't need (see your pm's, lol). Decided to keep the other stock for now.

The added length of rip's exo-t chassis reduces the wheelies, although I'm sorta over them now and set my slipper accordingly.

If you want to do his chassis AND go with some bigger batts (ie: 4.8V 300-400mAh 2/3AAA's) then the added weight needs more motor torque. I would drop to the lowest pinion if I was running the stock motor. I'm hooked on the IPS motor these days, lol....

As for the gearbox mate don't get me fucken started..... lol...

The gearbox on this thing is just nuts, if you don't pay attention to it in the long term you AND run it hard something will break, lol...

Here's a pick from another thread (what's circled is a trashed diff) to help me explain myself, lol...

The brass bushing the spur shaft sits in needs to be lubed, I use my tamiya silicon grease for that. All gear meshes need tobe lubed. In the diff i but some associated grease to gum it up a bit but that didn't work in the long run. The diff was just too smooth.

I remove the 2nd intermediate gear from it's shaft and oil them seperately as well.

For me the diff is too loose. I would like it a 'lil stiffer since the cornering already is too tight, lol. I think i'm going to experiment with placing some shims over the outdrives within the gearbox casing to see if I can tighten it up.

This is the first diff I've blown, others have blown stacks before me, hopefully shiming it upmay help....I dunno.....

long post, soz...

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Fri Apr 06, 2007 5:47 pm

For me the diff is too loose. I would like it a 'lil stiffer since the cornering already is too tight, lol. I think i'm going to experiment with placing some shims over the outdrives within the gearbox casing to see if I can tighten it up.

Too loose is probably better than too tight. My first one has a really tight diff still, even after running down several packs just hold one of the wheels. Its still feels notchy too. I've tried all kind of lubes on it, loosening the case... Anyrate I'm still having trouble controlling that car, but my second one that has a nice smooth diff is easy to drive.

I think the tranny case is the reason why my one is so tight, I'd be willing to bet shimming will work for you.

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:34 pm

OUCH!

If you can get your hands on a tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease(~6$), give
it a shot. With it, the gears don't build up the black nasties and it's nice and thick. It even took up the slack in the worn slipper bushing. Been using it with success so far. Knock on wood.

Beforehand i was constantly cleaning out each gear with the edge of a peice of paper every 3 days.