@bilbo, yes nelly is on the stock PCB. The Micro-T PCB has a similar MOSFET arrangement as all other 1:28 cars. It just comes as a "2x2" stack stock. See me 'tronics thread at rippers for more info along those lines:
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/ ... .php?t=503
yes the stock LOSI setup will take lipo not a problem. You will also NOT have any servo chatter
. It's "officialy" designed to go 7.4V,lol....
If you've gone brushless you could easily push the 'lil buggers onto 11.1V
Still running the stock body:
The front mount hole had to be lengthed by about 8mm. The rear hole is stock. I had to trim the rear left part of the sheel (that drops behind the rear wheel) to accomodate the longer IPS motor.
Also the front part of the shell that sits over the front shocks now was trimmed back a bit as well, not much, just a little...Just to ensure the shock coils didn't bind against it.
@Dave. lol @ bearings, you go girl!
The tyres are great. less wear in the long run but nice n grippy on the concrete. Should go well on carpet.
The chassis is about $15 think from rippers, but I've got a spare I don't need (see your pm's, lol). Decided to keep the other stock for now.
The added length of rip's exo-t chassis reduces the wheelies, although I'm sorta over them now and set my slipper accordingly.
If you want to do his chassis AND go with some bigger batts (ie: 4.8V 300-400mAh 2/3AAA's) then the added weight needs more motor torque. I would drop to the lowest pinion if I was running the stock motor. I'm hooked on the IPS motor these days, lol....
As for the gearbox mate don't get me fucken started..... lol...
The gearbox on this thing is just nuts, if you don't pay attention to it in the long term you AND run it hard something will break, lol...
Here's a pick from another thread (what's circled is a trashed diff) to help me explain myself, lol...
The brass bushing the spur shaft sits in needs to be lubed, I use my tamiya silicon grease for that. All gear meshes need tobe lubed. In the diff i but some associated grease to gum it up a bit but that didn't work in the long run. The diff was just too smooth.
I remove the 2nd intermediate gear from it's shaft and oil them seperately as well.
For me the diff is too loose. I would like it a 'lil stiffer since the cornering already is too tight, lol. I think i'm going to experiment with placing some shims over the outdrives within the gearbox casing to see if I can tighten it up.
This is the first diff I've blown, others have blown stacks before me, hopefully shiming it upmay help....I dunno.....
long post, soz...
What's next, afterburners? 
