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Bilbo's suggestions for ctting weight sound good. Can you run any material for the chassis? Our LHS has a section where they are selling carbon fiber rods and sheets. If you swapped out the wire frame with a carbon fiber rod frame it should save some weight.

Bonding the carbon fiber would be hard. I have thought of making a carbon chassis. just trimming it out of some sheet carbon fiber.

You might want to check it out. The kid at the LHS said they have a resin you pour straight onto the pre-made rods and then when they're curred there is a special glue that sounds like an epoxy...50/50 mix, sandable. I don't know if he was right or not the owner wasn't there and this kid is new so? I've been thinking about checking it out for a 1/18th scale project.

SHAUN wrote:

That is an absolutely wicked looking TC!!! Making me almost want to go out in the snow and work on my T-bird engine.

Thanks Frizzen, well I found out that the front wheels haven't corroded, it turns out I should have gotten the "low dust" brake pads.


I cleaned them up a little with a dremel, looks better. I'll take a picture Tuesday.

Trying to get the car to run faster than 1.300's should run 1.150's. I talked to the track owner and he said I need to use the big foot II brushes and champion "light" springs. Personally I think it could use a 15t pinion, I can hear it at about half track that the motor winds out.

I'll try his way first, he has been doing it for 20 or so years, and I've only been into it for about a year.


Thanks for the comment guys, I picked up a stone, woods & cook willys tonight.

Have you blue printed the motor yet (honed magnets-if legal, center magnets, shims, drill out bushings half way, air gap arm, etc.).

Nope. Sealed motors, can't do anything to them. I will say that the "seal" is pretty easy to get off, they aren't like the parma seals that with come apart.

Got a series race today(Saturday) I have the cars set up pretty good.

Car Class ET(Avg.)
Tunder bird 1.200 1.215
Cornet 1.200 1.207
Mustang 1.000 1.009
Studebaker Top Sportsman .870

I'm hoping I can get the top sportsman to run faster than it is. planning on braid juice, comm drops(horrible for the comm and dries the oil out of your brushes) and some prayers.


I also have to make time to go do a deal with a guy for a speed control. LRP Super Reverse Digital brand new $20 pretty good deal.



Well, wish me luck.

Beat them at the lights. Bunch of near perfect lights will help you out.

Well I had a great time, only my 2nd big race. It was a great experience.

I didn't do anything to impressive.

1.200, Red Light, got a .397 light.
1.200, Broke out, got a 1.179 ET
1.000, Broke out, got a .997 ET
Top Sportsman, car ran like sh!t, got a .879 ET(should have been closer to .750
Funny Car, car didn't perform, it spun off the line. I lost by 8 thousandths of a second.

The Top sportsman killed a arm during practice I was running a borrowed arm and it just wasn't geared right, I ended up getting passed 10ft in front of the finish line like I was standing still.

Funny Car, I borrowed the track owners car, it spun off the line, other than that I almost had the race won losing by 8 thousandths of a second.

Over all it was a great time and I had fun.

Sorry for the bad pictures, the lighting was horrible.


Concord










This car had some amazing paint work, the pictures don't even come close to doing it justice.


My pit.

That's a hell of a track! Where did you say this place is? Anyway, glad you had fun. And the pictures looked pretty good for a big dark area like that.

Broken Arrow, Oklahoma.

Ours is a pretty cool track, I'm just not sure how much longer it will be open. Doesn't seem to be getting much business, and winter is the busy season for slot car tracks.


I wish our parts counter looked like this.
http://www.oldweirdherald.com/photos/ga ... 052?full=1

Check this out for some more tracks.
http://www.oldweirdherald.com/photos/ga ... ays?page=1

Wow, I had no idea that the hobby was still so alive. We had a track in Canton Oh for a while but they dissapeared I hear there is one in Akron but I haven't looked it up yet. I had thought of starting a track near me but I didn't think it would go...that and the thought of trying to run a hobby shop souded like a giant pain. Maybe if it was a combined track, some slots, some indoor RC

I hope you guys make it.

Alright I have collected enough parts to build another car. I was going to use a 55 chevy body. But when I saw a awesome T-bird body laying in the track owners "body box" I had to have it, $5 and it was mine

Specs.

Chassis: WRP Side winder, built using stainless steel tubing
Motor: Pro Slot SpeedFX, with adjustable timing
Tires: Pro Track Eliminators .300 wide

Misc. TQ Lead wire, WRP Solid Wheelie wheels, Parma "The Blade" guide flag, 12/54 Gearing, and the T-bird body.

Here are some pictures, I think it turned out pretty good for being built from spare parts.


I got the light reflections all wrong in this shot, it makes the body look really beat up and rough.



Thank you,
Shaun

Here is the most bad ass body I own. The original owner paid over $125 to have it built.

It started as a 1/24th scale Firebird model body. It was chopped up and turned into a 1/25th scale drag body. The work on this body is amazing. I traded the track owner some stuff for it.

The body work is out standing.