xmod purchase + set up advice

General discussions, tutorials, help, upgrades, and new info about the Xmods line of RCs goes here.
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ezenterprises
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Post by ezenterprises »

sg219 wrote:Instead of the 4??k on the stock RS motors, some people replace them with 103k. I think those are the right numbers. Anyway, it helps with interference when you do that.
The ones i saw were hooked up to the batts i beleive and acted like a speed boost of sorts..... at least thats the claim........ not the little ones on the motor housing.
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crazydave
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Post by crazydave »

The best way to win a race, is practice, practice, practice, and then practice some more.

That's what I learned from 1/10th scale off road racing. When I ran my matched cells and brand new motor with the bigger magnets, etc. etc., I would always do a lot worse than I did during the qualifiers, when I ran my sport packs, and old worn out motor.
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LBRC
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Post by LBRC »

This is my TraXmod I call it Flipper because it’s no good for the street or pavement, too light, what it is good for is an RCP type track.
Image
Speed checker: 38 k/ph
Total Weight: 171 grams with RSX body.
Stage 2 and Yellow Gear Set
High Power LiPo Battery Pack(s), 600 mAh and swappable
2x3 IRF 7317 FET Stacks
Modified Heat Sink
22 awg 64/40 Stranded Wire
4.75K Surface Mount Resistor Mod
AWD Kit
Ball Bearings
Red Spring Set
Foam Tires
Low Profile Alloy Wheel Nuts

If you want a serious outlaw track Xmod you have to start addressing the issues, one at a time.

First is practice wins a race no matter what the car has.
The track has no room for ultimate speed, you need to be quick not fast.
Xmods are not only heavy, but top heavy.
They have a very wide turning radius
And they handle like a Galaxy 500 with no power steering.

Interchangeable battery Problems
Lithium-ions are just what they need for the track, since they lower the weight and more importantly the center of gravity, but at the track you will want to swap out your batteries and although you can rig something up it usually involves more mounting hardware defeating some of the advantages, and even though they can be made to mount with a little ingenuity thier width can be a problem. To make a swappable Li-Ion mount I’d mold a trough out of epoxy and hold the cells on with wide rubber bands. The LiPo cells on Flipper mount with Velcro and for added support in a race a wide rubber band insures they stay in place.

I'd go watch the races and see what’s working then start building a car from there.
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ezenterprises
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Post by ezenterprises »

Well today went pretty good....... Showed up to watch and ended up racing. RS had a small set up selling stuff and the one guy let me borrow a store demo 350Z to race on the track for free if i bought a pack of batts for it...done deal. So i raced in the stock class.

First time ever racing on a track.... it was a blast!!! But boy, the steering sucks stock..... wayyy to wide. But my supreme skills came through and i took first place and won a small trophy.

I think more cells/turbo may be toooo much for this track unless you get super good traction/handling..... I was letting off the gas in most turns and cutting it hard to just squeak by... and that was stock!! Maybe with AWD and steering mod you could corner much better.

Another problem was the damn tires...... stock rubber tires..... i kept smokin em LOL they kept coming off......maybe need either tire tape or go with foam.... luckily only came off once in race and marshal quickly fixed it and i was on my way.

And i ended up getting a brand new xmod from a guy there for only $30 (corvette). Time to get hop ups now......

And if i do decide to go with nelly, i was told the transponder will work from 4-8 volts so it should be ok ( as long as it all fits under car ).....xponder screws to inside roof so i think it should stay up outta way so there would be room.

Well thanks for all the help guys....... cj ill prolly be in touch with ya soon :)
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