brushless xmod project continues on.

[Clint]

I dont like running the 3s on the 8000 in the xray m18 for longer than a couple minutes either, it does get hot quick, but omg does it put a smile on your face. also im still using composite pinion gears on it, which actually works out to be a "motor saver". The inside of the pinion gear will melt causing it to spin loose if the motor gets a bit too warm, but it is still way under motor overheating temp. the kokam 3s 1250 lipo is a huge bitch and just barely fits in the xray, but it handles the mamba with ease. I bought this lipo so i could use it for both the xray and the blade cp.

in the xray i normally run a 2s 1200mah on a 19tooth 36 spur with no cogging. im using an alum hs/motor mount on it and i can run for 20+ minutes without heat problems(motor or lipo). 2s+8000kv is an excellent all around no issue basher which is why i picked it for the xmod.


hey viperdout, with that sparrow pinion adapter you should be able to re-gear your xmod easily. 30t alum robinson racing pinions are real smooth
and give it enough room to maintain AWD. you would just need a thicker spacer to lift the motor mount.. the xmod plastic yellow bushings work great for this and you can thin em out to create a perfect gear mesh.

Yeah, I'm probably gonna build up an M18 with that setup, except with either the new Thunderpower cells or the PolyQuest 1800s.

Yeah, I've been thinking about changing the gearing, but the spacers are made to mesh perfectly with the 28 tooth, so I don't wanna mess with it, though I might still. I want to get it to not chew up bevels first, which seems to be even worse with the metal bevel. Have you killed any bevels with the 8000? If not, I might just switch to it.

i killed the first white bevel gear trying to set gear mesh, but after that one it appears to be holding up(theres a little fringing..but not bad). i am also trying to find a way to use the front awd cone gear attached to an alum spur gear to make a half metal/half plastic rear bevel.

i remember on the xmod forums you mentioned a supplier to make a batch of metal 24t bevel gears.. did that fall through? if the machinist
needs a batch of 20+ to make a run, if the price isnt to bad i'd buy a whole lot, just so it can be done.

[viperdout]

I dont like running the 3s on the 8000 in the xray m18 for longer than a couple minutes either, it does get hot quick, but omg does it put a smile on your face. also im still using composite pinion gears on it, which actually works out to be a "motor saver". The inside of the pinion gear will melt causing it to spin loose if the motor gets a bit too warm, but it is still way under motor overheating temp. the kokam 3s 1250 lipo is a huge bitch and just barely fits in the xray, but it handles the mamba with ease. I bought this lipo so i could use it for both the xray and the blade cp.

in the xray i normally run a 2s 1200mah on a 19tooth 36 spur with no cogging. im using an alum hs/motor mount on it and i can run for 20+ minutes without heat problems(motor or lipo). 2s+8000kv is an excellent all around no issue basher which is why i picked it for the xmod.


hey viperdout, with that sparrow pinion adapter you should be able to re-gear your xmod easily. 30t alum robinson racing pinions are real smooth
and give it enough room to maintain AWD. you would just need a thicker spacer to lift the motor mount.. the xmod plastic yellow bushings work great for this and you can thin em out to create a perfect gear mesh.

Yeah, I'm probably gonna build up an M18 with that setup, except with either the new Thunderpower cells or the PolyQuest 1800s.

Yeah, I've been thinking about changing the gearing, but the spacers are made to mesh perfectly with the 28 tooth, so I don't wanna mess with it, though I might still. I want to get it to not chew up bevels first, which seems to be even worse with the metal bevel. Have you killed any bevels with the 8000? If not, I might just switch to it.

i killed the first white bevel gear trying to set gear mesh, but after that one it appears to be holding up(theres a little fringing..but not bad). i am also trying to find a way to use the front awd cone gear attached to an alum spur gear to make a half metal/half plastic rear bevel.

i remember on the xmod forums you mentioned a supplier to make a batch of metal 24t bevel gears.. did that fall through? if the machinist
needs a batch of 20+ to make a run, if the price isnt to bad i'd buy a whole lot, just so it can be done.

Yeah, supposedly my friend was telling me about this guy. I'll be getting his email tomorrow and I'll find out how much.

Edit: Friend is in Puerto Rico (lucky bastard), so it'll be awhile until I get the email.

[Clint]

hot shit. i just found out that Hammad Ghuman, a huge rc aluminum machinst is based 15 minutes from me.
www.1hg.com

i will inquire with them as well.

[viperdout]

hot shit. i just found out that Hammad Ghuman, a huge rc aluminum machinst is based 15 minutes from me.
www.1hg.com

i will inquire with them as well.

I also found a place that makes gears right by my house too. I really need a titanium bevel to match my pinion.

[gnubee]

When you guys are talking speeds of 60mph-120mph, are you talking scale speed, wheels on a speedchecker or actual radar-gun, on-the-street speed?

dont have access to a speed checker. or a radar gun. 60mph is a conservative estimate based on the gearing, wheel size, and theoretical rpm range of the brushless motor at the voltage supplied.

that being said, the calculations do not include the balooning of the tires under load(an increase of 1in diameter) which increases the speed

also the accepted speed estimators show 3s as 11.1v and my pack starts at 12.4 and stays high for a while during speedruns. have measured voltage of the motor under load on my bench(insert smell of plastic clutch smoking here) and the voltage hardly dips at all.

it screams like a demon escaping from hell during straightline speedruns on the blacktop alley behind my house.

my block is a double due to how street is arranged. i drive the t 2 city blocks away turn it around, and do the speed run towards myself. not the safest way but by the time it gets to me the throttle is pegged and i need to be close to feather the brakes or it cartwheels and throws bits.

the pitch of the motor at the end of the run is as high as if i had the wheels in the air. if i leave a little throttle for the end of the run i can pull a wheelie and it will actually leave the ground. fun but rather hard on the car.
when i get bored with that i do cookies.
only one wheel is touching the ground when i do cookies.

it is going at LEAST 60 mph. and not scale, either.

[viperdout]

When you guys are talking speeds of 60mph-120mph, are you talking scale speed, wheels on a speedchecker or actual radar-gun, on-the-street speed?

dont have access to a speed checker. or a radar gun. 60mph is a conservative estimate based on the gearing, wheel size, and theoretical rpm range of the brushless motor at the voltage supplied.

that being said, the calculations do not include the balooning of the tires under load(an increase of 1in diameter) which increases the speed

also the accepted speed estimators show 3s as 11.1v and my pack starts at 12.4 and stays high for a while during speedruns. have measured voltage of the motor under load on my bench(insert smell of plastic clutch smoking here) and the voltage hardly dips at all.

it screams like a demon escaping from hell during straightline speedruns on the blacktop alley behind my house.

my block is a double due to how street is arranged. i drive the t 2 city blocks away turn it around, and do the speed run towards myself. not the safest way but by the time it gets to me the throttle is pegged and i need to be close to feather the brakes or it cartwheels and throws bits.

the pitch of the motor at the end of the run is as high as if i had the wheels in the air. if i leave a little throttle for the end of the run i can pull a wheelie and it will actually leave the ground. fun but rather hard on the car.
when i get bored with that i do cookies.
only one wheel is touching the ground when i do cookies.

it is going at LEAST 60 mph. and not scale, either.

Yes, but I'm using foams, because the rubber tires kept ripping off. To give you an idea of the power, I got aluminum Mini-Z wheels and put 20 degree tires on the back, then glued them down really well. They ripped off in roughly 2 seconds.

[gnubee]

the stock rubber minit tires fly off too. am having better luck with the bow tie monster truck tires from ht usa. much stronger and thicker, if a bit heavy. they also rip off eventually and must be reglued repeatedly in spots. once the sidewalls tear off a few times i just get new tires. spares are handy.

the fronts also tear at the sidewalls eventually from balooning when the car reaches top speed. still use stock minit tires up front they do last a while there.