Misc. bits of info on my Xmod truck

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evoraptor
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Post by evoraptor »

Theres this one tut at XModworld that tries to solve the wheel rubbing issue by using gen 1 bushings and longer screws to left the body using the mounts. I have done that, and the rubbing is gone, and I can almost get full artic on it without rubbing. Nice truck Ynad. :-o
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color0
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Post by color0 »

regarding the wheelwell-rub issue...

it could well be because your articulation is "free", i.e. unsprung. there's nothing to keep the articulating rear end from hitting your body. my co-admin at my forum rigged up a set of evo shocks to serve as roll-shocks for the articulation, seems to work well, he says, stabilzes the truck in turns as the rear end will not get caught somewhere and want to flip up. if he gives the ok i'll post some of his pics.
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betty.k
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Post by betty.k »

color0 wrote:regarding the wheelwell-rub issue...
i like beanoman's idea in this thread:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=7186

simple and effective. it's kinda like an h plate in practice.
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crazydave
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Post by crazydave »

I made a plate to go under the rear body mount, and raise the rear. It just barely rubs now at only the most extreme position, but I really like beanoman's idea too. Like you said betty, simple and effective, my kind of mod. :-o

That should help the flipping in corners too. That's the main reason I'm gonna try it.
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color0
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Post by color0 »

betty.k wrote:
color0 wrote:regarding the wheelwell-rub issue...
i like beanoman's idea in this thread:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=7186

simple and effective. it's kinda like an h plate in practice.
it looks good, he showed me it before; i just worry about durability, since to have flex, you have to make something thinner.

nah, beano probably got everything covered. tell us how it goes, dave?
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betty.k
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Post by betty.k »

i wouldn't worry about durability, it won't take long to make another and the materials are plentiful. cheap too (unless you buy zz's just for the packaging).

i'd experiment with different materials, mousepad foam, ice cream lids, pcb, etc.
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crazydave
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Post by crazydave »

Ok to quickly sum up my dye job fiasco, suspension arms, steering arm, dog bones, all take dye immediately, and comeout jet black... but the shocks, upper suspension mounts, and gearbox, don't take dye so good.

The upper suspension mounts almost try to take the dye, but there was tinge of orange, and I threw it back in, and well, this is what happened...
(After I re-melted it, and shaped it so everything would lineup again, then redrilled the holes.)
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That didn't sit well with me, so when I picked up my 4WD kit yesterday, I went ahead and sprung for a new offroad kit, for that one part. :roll:

I must be a masochist or somthin', because the first thing I did, before I even installed it, was try to dye it again, but I had a plan. I had to dye the front driveshafts for the 4WD anyways, and I knew they'd take. I also threw a hand full of salt in there to help it along. I used Rit liquid dye, instead of the powdered kind, so I wouldn't get clumping like last time. Since I melted a part, and it was clumping last time, I also went with a lower temperature. This time was much more successful. The dogbones were done in like 5 minutes. Everything else I had to do for the full 45 minutes. The upper suspension mounts, still had a tint of orange, but it is much more even and less blotchy, so I said good enough. The shocks still don't take dye for crap. I'd skip them, or maybe try red, to tone the orange down. The gearbox, I got mostly black, but this was its second 45 minute session, and I wasn't doing it a minute more, can't afford to risk that part.

So here we go, its like a new car now.
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Notice you can see some orange tint in that last pics, but from the bottom it nice and black. :-o
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... and one more for the road.
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Now we just gotta test out that 4WD. I'm waiting for my batteries to charge now, so I was bored, and killing time. :lol:
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