New Xmods:Its all about the diffs and the TX
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- bitGangsta'
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I wanted to see the inside, so I decided to see if you could open it up and put er back together.. Its possible, but you have to be carefull so that you don't break the cup joints. Just use a thin screw driver to push the pin out, thats it.
Took a pic for your vewing pleasure, but photobucket is down.
beano
Took a pic for your vewing pleasure, but photobucket is down.
beano
- Zenith
- bitGangsta'
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betty.k wrote:i like the loctite and cotter pin ideas![]()
sure, it's still 2 halves with 3 little pinion gears inside. it's just that the evo diff incorporates the cups into the whole unit.Zenith wrote:Now is it possible to lock the diff, like pre-evo Xmods?
Lets hope these cup joints are more durable too, i recently broke the gen1 cups using only RS upgrades.(am i the only one to do that?)beanoman wrote:I wanted to see the inside, so I decided to see if you could open it up and put er back together.. Its possible, but you have to be carefull so that you don't break the cup joints. Just use a thin screw driver to push the pin out, thats it.

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- bitGangsta'
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I cant tell if the cup joints are stronger, although overall the diff seems to have about a many ups and downs as the old one/the cup joints.
Betty k., what exactly is wrong with the diff ph2t stripped? Are the 3 small gears in there screwed, or is the insides of the other part?
GPM had better make a ball diff.. it would be somewhat simple.
beano
Betty k., what exactly is wrong with the diff ph2t stripped? Are the 3 small gears in there screwed, or is the insides of the other part?
GPM had better make a ball diff.. it would be somewhat simple.
beano
- betty.k
- bitPimp
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- Zenith
- bitGangsta'
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- SuperFly
- bitPimp
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- bitPimp
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- betty.k
- bitPimp
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i think that will make it come apart quicker. forget about locking fluids for now, concentrate on the pin.Zenith wrote:If you two can break it like that just driving, I'm gonna try just stuffing that thing with silicone RTV. Maybe this would be a good test for the cup joints when i get one?
then again i always run with gear diffs on the rear of my 1st gens and i never had a problem. it was the ball diff that sucked in my opinion.
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- bitDisciple
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- Ex-Shack ZipPimp
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With the cars if you get the Suspension kit it has lowering and raising parts. In the paper that comes with it is says that you can us the Lift Up to give the car a Rally Look.Maxximum Attack wrote:When you do get around to playing, check and see if there is some way of keeping the truck stance w/ a car body.sg219 wrote:I got the F-150 tonight!![]()
Won't be able to play until Sunday.![]()
I've checked it out and its lookin' pretty cool. The whole rearend pivots.![]()
Gotta look closer.![]()
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- bitDisciple
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- bitHood
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The race suspension upgrade gives you the ability to raise or lower the car. I no pics as of yet as I dont have that upgrade, the suspension design on the evo is rather ingenious, double wishbone, and the rear has a pseudo sway bar. This diffs suck dick, I made a plastic driveshaft for the AWD, which helped alot in terms of acceleration. The bearing kit is the first upgrade anybody should get.
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- bitThug
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i have the lift kit installed. also installed some shorter bottom steering knuckle screws collared with short pieces of stripped insulator from some thin wire. unable to figure out how to make bitpimps gallery take my pictures-after 3 different resizes and file protocol changes i gave up.
maybe i can get this to work instead:
http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery7723.htm
maybe i can get this to work instead:
http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery7723.htm
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- bitDisciple
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