WRX STi... old school style (update 3/30/06)
- color0
- bitPlaya'
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please excuse the double post... because i have updates!
ok, this was before the chassis work... i forgot to upload.

and now the semi-complete chassis... nothing's fixed on yet, and i'm getting out the styrene soon to prop up and support the motor. that's an iwaver 01 pro board sitting on there.

pics of body stance on chassis... i love the look, but unfortunately the wheels and tires are very wide, and rubbing like crazy.


enjoy!
ok, this was before the chassis work... i forgot to upload.

and now the semi-complete chassis... nothing's fixed on yet, and i'm getting out the styrene soon to prop up and support the motor. that's an iwaver 01 pro board sitting on there.

pics of body stance on chassis... i love the look, but unfortunately the wheels and tires are very wide, and rubbing like crazy.


enjoy!
Greyscale Racing
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- bitDisciple
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That thing's giving me ideas. I like the PCB swap but I like portability of the Xmod controller, eventhough it's a POS. So I'm thinking maybe an EVO board swap with a pan style chassis. I know it's re-inventing the wheel but that's what's in my head now. I'd like to see what you're going to do with that servo
, how are you going to mount it?
The EVO PCB is too wide therefore a battery re arrangement is a must.
Shit I'm ranting on your thread, sorry boss. I'm just seeing so clear right now
Maxx

The EVO PCB is too wide therefore a battery re arrangement is a must.
Shit I'm ranting on your thread, sorry boss. I'm just seeing so clear right now

Maxx
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- color0
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that's what i had in mind... score.MafiaS wrote:Lovin the dark rims...kinda hate the gold look...call me a loser but a lil darkness makes the car look rough and tough...

maxx- lol. i think someone's already done the evo pcb swap, but i think you'd need a slightly lowered pan chassis to fit the pcb under the driveshaft.
i'll update this post with pics in a couple of hours... can't steal the camera while mom's at home.

Greyscale Racing
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- bitDisciple
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I know it's been done, but I don't wat to mount the PCB under the driveshaft, lol. On thinking about it last night, I even devised a kind of lift kit for the gen 1 chassis. I'll make a post..color0 wrote:maxx- lol. i think someone's already done the evo pcb swap, but i think you'd need a slightly lowered pan chassis to fit the pcb under the driveshaft.
Maxx
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Capacitors. Dont know what they are for, they wont make much difference if any at all with the motor.Maxximum Attack wrote:Where do those big ass black things go? and what do they do?
I've seen a smaller version of them on the motor. Actually just shoot me a link and I'll read for myself.
Is there a walk-in store that I can get the little blue servo? What's it called?EDIT: Cirrus CS-4.4 ?
Its better to be hated for what you are than to be loved for what you are not
- color0
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oops... ack, i was in a test-taking-high earlier... stampede's right, i don't need the capacitor to help the batteries, not with li-ions. with NiMH i sometimes add the capacitor to supply current while the motor gets off of the "stall" stage (in which it draws higher amps).
anyhow, change of plans, i'm gonna try to rig a 180 motor in here and see how well it performs.
i got the CS-4.4 at my LHS... i believe they're discontinued though, there's a new one called the Blue Bird, it weighs less and has comparable performance.
to avoid double posting:


the lithiums are actually mounted to the chassis and not touching the carpet at all... ah, the wonders of tacky glue.
anyhow, change of plans, i'm gonna try to rig a 180 motor in here and see how well it performs.
i got the CS-4.4 at my LHS... i believe they're discontinued though, there's a new one called the Blue Bird, it weighs less and has comparable performance.
to avoid double posting:


the lithiums are actually mounted to the chassis and not touching the carpet at all... ah, the wonders of tacky glue.

Greyscale Racing
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