GPM Racing Products for Xmods and Xmods Evolution
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Nope!sg219 wrote:Are the front arms retarded like the ones LBRC got?

After further examination they are Retarded. They will NOT be reordered until I have proof they are fixed.
Last edited by cj on Fri Jan 28, 2005 5:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Here are the only problems I found with the GPM parts:
• Retarded front swing arms, mirror images so that the holes were off. I like that description “retarded.” Glad to hear CJ’s were good, and GPM has already fixed the problem.
• Two blue right rear swing arms did not have enough clearance for the shocks so that when you tighten down the screw the shocks push against the swing arm causing binding problems.
• The GPM tie rod rubs with the AWD kit.
• Front knuckles can rub especially on the slightly wider muscle care tires. Not a problem if you are using wide track bearings, or better yet a small washer between the ball bearing and the plastic wheel, the washer should be small enough so that it does not touch the outer portion of the ball bearing, this will solve three problems (1) the wheel will not rub against the knuckle assembly, (2) it will eliminate the excess play/slop in the same way the wide track bearings do, and (3) it will prevent the wheel from rubbing against the outer portion of the ball bearings and allow you to tighten the wheels down properly further eliminating slop something that the wide track bearings will not do.
• No insulated antenna mount on the rear deck. At first I didn’t think this would be much of a problem, but having had some electronic training and experience I was blind to what should have been an obvious problem. If someone who was not familiar with the conductive properties of aluminum and didn’t know they needed an insulator were to attach the antenna wire directly to the deck everything would work fine until something bridged the gap between the motor case and the deck like the heat sink motor mount then since the Xmod motors have the positive motor wire connected directly to case the inductors will blow almost immediately, squashing any new found joy in the fancy anodized parts.
• The motor mount fits a little tight so that some motor cans won’t fit. Had a problem with EGR racing, Iwaver Pro, and a few older 130’s mostly with vents in the front.
• I didn’t care for some of the screws supplied with the parts, primarily the counter sunk heads were too big but easily replaced. Note: the Xmod screws will not work, you need a standard metric machine tread.
• Axel alignment pin fits a little tight, I’m not sure this is actually a problem it could eventually be a good thing, you just have to put the differential and axel together first making sure the pin seats in both sides completely and then separate the axel leaving the pin in one side before you put the rear end together.
• The parts do add weight but not much, less than 10 grams for everything I put on my Mustang, a total of 15 items. It does not have the front deck, battery clips, body mount, and of course the “retarded’ front swing arms.
Over all the GPM parts rule, surprisingly their not all show after installing the complete set minus the retarded front swing arms in my Mustang it handles much better with noticeably tighter steering, but the big surprise was actually the drive train, all the bearings line up perfectly and there is absolutely no slop, with the noticeably smoother drive train and hubs the car rolls much easier improving acceleration, battery life, and top end. Unfortunately my Mustang is not exactly a good standard test subject, I should have put the parts in a stock car to try out first.
• Retarded front swing arms, mirror images so that the holes were off. I like that description “retarded.” Glad to hear CJ’s were good, and GPM has already fixed the problem.
• Two blue right rear swing arms did not have enough clearance for the shocks so that when you tighten down the screw the shocks push against the swing arm causing binding problems.
• The GPM tie rod rubs with the AWD kit.
• Front knuckles can rub especially on the slightly wider muscle care tires. Not a problem if you are using wide track bearings, or better yet a small washer between the ball bearing and the plastic wheel, the washer should be small enough so that it does not touch the outer portion of the ball bearing, this will solve three problems (1) the wheel will not rub against the knuckle assembly, (2) it will eliminate the excess play/slop in the same way the wide track bearings do, and (3) it will prevent the wheel from rubbing against the outer portion of the ball bearings and allow you to tighten the wheels down properly further eliminating slop something that the wide track bearings will not do.
• No insulated antenna mount on the rear deck. At first I didn’t think this would be much of a problem, but having had some electronic training and experience I was blind to what should have been an obvious problem. If someone who was not familiar with the conductive properties of aluminum and didn’t know they needed an insulator were to attach the antenna wire directly to the deck everything would work fine until something bridged the gap between the motor case and the deck like the heat sink motor mount then since the Xmod motors have the positive motor wire connected directly to case the inductors will blow almost immediately, squashing any new found joy in the fancy anodized parts.
• The motor mount fits a little tight so that some motor cans won’t fit. Had a problem with EGR racing, Iwaver Pro, and a few older 130’s mostly with vents in the front.
• I didn’t care for some of the screws supplied with the parts, primarily the counter sunk heads were too big but easily replaced. Note: the Xmod screws will not work, you need a standard metric machine tread.
• Axel alignment pin fits a little tight, I’m not sure this is actually a problem it could eventually be a good thing, you just have to put the differential and axel together first making sure the pin seats in both sides completely and then separate the axel leaving the pin in one side before you put the rear end together.
• The parts do add weight but not much, less than 10 grams for everything I put on my Mustang, a total of 15 items. It does not have the front deck, battery clips, body mount, and of course the “retarded’ front swing arms.
Over all the GPM parts rule, surprisingly their not all show after installing the complete set minus the retarded front swing arms in my Mustang it handles much better with noticeably tighter steering, but the big surprise was actually the drive train, all the bearings line up perfectly and there is absolutely no slop, with the noticeably smoother drive train and hubs the car rolls much easier improving acceleration, battery life, and top end. Unfortunately my Mustang is not exactly a good standard test subject, I should have put the parts in a stock car to try out first.
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SG the GREEN Knuckles arrived yesterday. I'll have some free time Sunday to let you in on the full details. To add those to what I told you before so far add $13.40. That includes shipping .
As for everyone else I got the Center Shafts and the Knuckles (Red, Silver, and Black). I'll post again when I have time.
As for everyone else I got the Center Shafts and the Knuckles (Red, Silver, and Black). I'll post again when I have time.
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Don't get every part and make sure you know exactly what you want. The following parts are ones to watch out for in terms on not working or made wrong.
XM049 Steering plate - May bind if you have the AWD kit.
XM054 Front upper arm set - Holes where knuckle goes into reversed and will bind. If used with stock top plate it may bind and not move.
Also not all lock nuts are the same the GPM ones for Mini-Z will only fit the GPM axles and not the stock Xmods axles.
XM049 Steering plate - May bind if you have the AWD kit.
XM054 Front upper arm set - Holes where knuckle goes into reversed and will bind. If used with stock top plate it may bind and not move.
Also not all lock nuts are the same the GPM ones for Mini-Z will only fit the GPM axles and not the stock Xmods axles.
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