My new Hummer Evo's got no go

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 11:33 pm

Received my Hummer tonight and spent the last 3 steeenkin hours putting it all together and doing the upgrades. After all was said and done the thing don't work right.

The problem:
I pull the throttle and it either goes REALLY SLOW or not at all.

- I've Checked the AAA batts with a voltmeter and I KNOW they've all got a good amount of juice
- The Tx power light is decently lit, so the 9volt is fine
- If I pick up the truck and pull the throttle, it drives fine...As soon as I put it back down it might drive around a little (very weakly) and then stop.

I did the following upgrades as soon as I took it out of the box:
- 4 Wheel Drive
- Stage 2 (with 8/25 spacer and 8/25 gears)
- Ground Clearance (and using the beefier tires)

The 4-wheel drive upgrade was a pain in my balls to do and the instructions basically SUCK. Hell the instructions basically sucked for all the other upgrades too. Like the damned thing doesn't give you any specifics about which one of the 3 drive axles to use??? The closest thing was it saying "F-150 = LL/Hummer = L" What the hell is that? So out of the 3 rods I went with the middle sized one.

Can anyone give me any other suggestions on what to check or what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks.

evoraptor · Post by **evoraptor** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 11:39 pm

Hmm... I've never had problems like yours, and I'm running the exact same shit. I'm even running bigger tires. It sounds like you did everything right.. pics maybe?

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 12:46 am

Some images...

color0 · Post by **color0** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 12:46 am

it sure as hell sounds like weak batteries... but it might just be binding. big potential for that in the evo trucks, what with bearingless transfer gears and all. definitely check for that.

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 7:21 am

Sorry to hear about the trouble.

I hate the AWD kit instructions. You would think if they tell you which axle to use the axles would be marked in some way. Plus why 3 axles when there is only two truck sizes? Are they going to come out with a shorter wheelbase body (Jeep CJ)? Plus which way are the dogbones supposed to go (one side has a flat spot on it.)

How does the motor sound when out of the unit? I've seen defective electic motors in the past. When I was running slotcars I would break them in at 3v for 15 minutes. I know I've blasted a Bit motor at 12V to revive one that was sticking.

I put a stage 2 in my Mitsubishi and it took me a few minutes (OK 10-15 with interuptions) to get it seated right.

I had binding on my Hummer when I converted to the F150 body. The wires were rubbing. They really have to be in the strain relief holders.

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 7:50 am

revert to first principles and try again.l

ie: try it stock, if it's ok then try it with AWD. IF that's where you hit the problem try running the AWD without the motor in it. Will make it a lot easier to feel where it would be stiff.....

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:26 am

Bilbo,
In the instructions there's indeed a note that the smallest of the 3 drive shafts from the AWD kit is for a new model truck (no mention of what or when though).

[Rant]
Man, when I busted open everything (including the upgrades) I thought I was lookin at maybe an hour of assembly and then a little photosession and upload to pictureshare...But Nooooo. I gotta deal with shitty instructions AND the included phillips head screwdriver started getting stripped after about the 3rd screw (DAMN, they get those screws in there TIGHT!) so I gotta go grab my general purpose screwdriver and of course that thing's diameter is too chunky to get into all the nooks and crannies.

So, instead, I'm up till the wee hours and I'm typing this with a nearly empty cup of coffee in front of me and VERY heavy eyelids.

And even after I fix whatever the current drive issue is...I still need to do something about all the wheel SLOP!

To add insult to injury; The Evo doesn't seem to work with the Mini-Z Perfex Tx. When I tried using the Perfex I got zero response whatsoever.

I would MUCH prefer using that Tx over using the Xmods Tx (just for the fact of not having to deal with 9volt batts alone is enough reason for me).
[/Rant]

Don't get me wrong though, that wasn't the rant-of-giving-up...Just the rant-of-frustration. The Hummer Evo might not be gold out-of-the-box but I WILL mod it until I MAKE it gold.

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:43 am

I just loved them calling the axles M, L and LL. Why not Short, Medium and Long? I had fun putting them in my Mitsubishi Lancer, it didn't clearly say in the instructions which one.

Wheel slop is normal for all xmods, I personally use spacers from my Slotcar days. I did notice if you spring for the Aluminum Wheels for the Cars I didn't seem to need the spacers.

I think some locknuts would also cure the problem, I just find it difficult to spend 6-7 bucks with shipping for a set of 4 when I have 8 cars/trucks I need them on.

I've been tempted to try Home Depot or Lowes to see if they have any 2mm lock nuts, I have a spare axle to take with me. I'm even tempted to search the web for anybody who makes locknuts to see if I can get a bulk discount.

Why can't Rat Shack get off they bloated behinds and give the people who are purchasing and running their cars the parts we need. Hell Super Slicks has locknuts on their Monster Trucks.

Maybe the ability to buy the bodies and mounts without having to look up 57 different part numbers. Maybe more body choices, I would love a 67 Baracuda Fastback (my wife would maybe let be get her a truck if they had her 2006 Saturn Vue).

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 7:06 pm

BilboBaggins wrote: Maybe more body choices, I would love a 67 Baracuda Fastback (my wife would maybe let be get her a truck if they had her 2006 Saturn Vue).

You said it brother! Not only would I like to see more cars, but I would like to see more everyday cars. Maximas, CRX's, or even a corolla would be cool.

Back to CD, sounds like the motor isn't getting good connectivity. Check the contact points for the motor wires and try resoldering the wire on the motor's terminals. If it's not that or the batts, and you don't feel any binding when you push the car back and forth manually then I'd have to say it's the fets or something else in the board.

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:13 pm

Eh, it was bad batts afterall.

Took the drivetrain apart tonight and lubed it up royal with powdered graphite. And used 2 metails bearings to replace the plastic ones used on the drivetrain. Hellova lot smooooother now.

Then I stuck some fresh off the charger AAAs in there and she was off and running real sweet like, no more problems.

For giggles I popped in the batts I thought were good and low and behold it was weak as hell.

Damned Flickr site is down...Otherwise I'd embed a few money shots.

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:32 am

Flickr's back, here's a few shots...

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sat Jun 24, 2006 3:08 am

looking good, glad to hear it's running properly! (you dope

)

only place i'd use oil on my xmods would be the motor bushings. just a little, every 5 runs or so

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Sat Jun 24, 2006 9:51 pm

So you are a happy camper now.

The only problem I've had with a Xmod was a lancer I bought at a store that was closing. I opened it up and several things had been built and someone put the wrong screw in the antenna spot causing the chassis to seperate. I took it to a different store and they replaced it no problem.