Some Xmods mod questions...

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:30 pm

Bear with me, I've got a few questions and need some confirmations. After driving an Xray M18 today, I MUST make EVERY attempt to get my Xmods Evo (Hummer) as torqued/fast as possible to even have a remote chance in swaying me away from going hog-wild and getting the M18.

At this point Punch is more important to me than top-end.

I'll start firing away with the questions...

1. Any recommendations on a nice punchy Motor? I've got the Stage2 now, but is it worthwhile to mod it (like with neo mags) or should I just step up to another motor? If so, what motor? I've been reading a little about Plasmtomic and X2. Some experienced opinions would be great though

1a. What about swapping out the motor wire for higher gauge (like 18 gauge). Is that generally a good option after putting in a "hot" motor?

2. I've already ordered 7 pairs of the Evo Fets (7329 and 9910). I was planning on doing 2x2 (bought extras just in case I screw anything up), but considering question #1, should I look at stacking higher/more?

3. To compensate for the higher power draw, and after doing the FET Stack upgrade...Is a 6cell Mod adequate enough to supply the power need? Or should I be looking at (or need) Li-Poly?

Anything else I could be looking at to beef up the Hummer? I've already upgraded to ball bearings all around and GPM Ball Diffs.

Thanks.

LBRC · Post by **LBRC** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 1:25 am

Me, I like ribs.

But if ya have something against a little pork I’d go with lithium poly’s holding off on the motor until you see what the LiPo’s do, that way if you’re still hungry you can throw some fajitas on the barbeque adding your choice of sauce, hot, hotter, or ouch.

You only have to remember that there are limits to what your stomach and an Xmod can do or take.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 8:42 am

mmmm... fajitas.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:01 pm

If you are going to go AWD, then I would get the neo magnets, ball bearing case and a set of carbon brushes. You can always change the armature later if you want. The Xmod EVO AWD likes to heat up the motor. Especially after you start adding more power with fets and extra batteries. You may notice the motor gets pretty hot as it is. Definately don't use a hot motor like a Plasma-Atomic in a suped up AWD Xmod EVO. If you don't blow the fets, then you'll fry the motor's brushes one after the other, if not the motor. I know this from experience.

If you are going to keep it 2WD then you can use a motor like the Plasma-Atomic but I would probably make the fet stack a 2X3.

Here's a little history on my tests I've been running;

1. 2X3 stack fets with a Plasma-Atomic: Was very fast, but very uncontrollable. It would pull to the right or left at any given moment even after acceleration.

2. Added AWD: Control came back, but I blew the Fet stack.

3. Nelly EVO: Nelly EVO got too hot. I almost blew that. I think I needed more volts.

4. Added li-polys (7.2V): Nelly EVO stopped getting hot but the Plasma-Atomic's brushes broke under too much heat.

5. Tried many different motors: All of them got too hot and the brushes broke. I've even tried a stage 2 armature with carbon brushes, ball bearing case (PN racing and another kind I got from 1/28th RC), and neo mags.

6. Currently working on a few custom made motors to deal with the heat(hand wound, pattern wound, different comms, armatures, etc....). The said stage 2 armature with all the fixings works nice in my AWD MR-010 with lithiums and Nelly Deluxe, but the lithiums are a little smaller and the car weighs about 1/3 the weight of the Xmod EVO, hence less resistance on the drive train and a little less current going to the poor motor.

As far as your other questions, I've used differnt gauge wire on a slew of motors. 22 gauge has been working just fine. I've used 18 gauge, but it didn't make the motor run cooler or go faster than the 22 gauge. I think a wire upgrade is important from stock to at least 22 gauge but I don't see the need for 18 gauge. That's a little over-kill.

I would definately use a 2X3 stack verse a 2X2 stack. It handles heat much better. A heat sink is recomended too.

The Plasma-Atomic is one of the best motors I've used. It's currently my fastest motor. I just got some hand wound motors made by a very talented dude and I just finished testing one (three days of testing and tweeking) against my Plasma-Atomic and another hand wound from maniac motors. The Plasma-Atomic beat both hand wounds in acceleration and speed. This was in a MR-02 with stock NIMH batts and a Spider from Ausmicro. BUT!!!!, only use it with a 2X3 stack of fets and only with 2WD. Otherwise headaches will ensue.

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:21 pm

Great breakdown Eight-Six, thanks for that!

Indeed I'm running my Hummer with AWD. I'll check into the Motor upgrades you recommended and go the extra FET stack at 2x3.

Zenith · Post by **Zenith** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:44 am

Maybe you should consider a stage1 armature in a bb-can, with neos; should run a bit cooler, and delivers more punch than the s2 armature.

Look for ways to run ducting from around the body and chassi to the motor and fets to help them keep their cool. ZZ packaging might make a great use for this - I'm currently looking for ways to do this with my G35.

Also, a carbon driveshaft should help lighten the load the awd causes, that steel one is a heavy sob.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 1:51 pm

YES, I forgot to stress a carbon shaft. That lightens the resistance on the drive train. You will see it in the performance too. Punchier and faster.

I'm working on hand wound armatures and different components to get a cool motor for the suped up Xmod EVO AWDs. When I get one finished that can handle the job I'll put the info out and even sell them. Don't hold your breath though. Work and life have been busy and progress is dictated to how much track time I can get. I still have 2 hand wound armatures that have been sitting around for a few weeks that I haven't had the time to test. I'm getting ready to move to Japan in a few months so I've got some pressing issues. On the bright side, I'll probably have access to Kyosho parts from the local stores at a much lower price and also much sooner than we get them here. AND, I'll be on a military base, so I can mail things out at State-side shipping cost.

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 2:19 pm

HACHI-RYOKU wrote:..AND, I'll be on a military base, so I can mail things out at State-side shipping cost.

Awwww yeah! Sweet man!