Scored me a Gen1 Supra = White gold
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- bitNinja
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Scored me a Gen1 Supra = White gold
Just scored me this generation 1 xmod , with a spinbrush motor (Yes from an electric toothbrush ) , AWD , just about every upgrade from ratshack , oh and some alloy knuckles.
Turned this thing on after charging my batteries , set it up nice and straight , FLOORED IT! , and seriously my face went like this
It's so damn fast , It shits on the xmod stage 2 motor , And best of all this motor runs on the stock elecs.
Im mainly using it for drifting , But I might take it out to a carpark tomorrow for a real test run if it's not too wet.
And best of all , It's a supra , Complete with bodykit , wing mirrors intact
Removed those vinyl's since , and it looks alot nicer IMO , I dont like rice graphics , I like nice clean paintjobs .
Some pictures :




Whatcha' think ?
Turned this thing on after charging my batteries , set it up nice and straight , FLOORED IT! , and seriously my face went like this

It's so damn fast , It shits on the xmod stage 2 motor , And best of all this motor runs on the stock elecs.
Im mainly using it for drifting , But I might take it out to a carpark tomorrow for a real test run if it's not too wet.
And best of all , It's a supra , Complete with bodykit , wing mirrors intact

Removed those vinyl's since , and it looks alot nicer IMO , I dont like rice graphics , I like nice clean paintjobs .
Some pictures :




Whatcha' think ?

We don't need no god damn roads!
- color0
- bitPlaya'
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- bitNinja
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Im not sure ,It's removed now , had to get rid of itcolor0 wrote:That is one out-of-place decal on the door; what the hell is it?
Otherwise, congrats on the score. Nice tire tape, if that's what it is.

And yea , selotape works perfect for drifting with xmods

Electrical tape kinda had too much grip for this scale

We don't need no god damn roads!
- color0
- bitPlaya'
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- bitNinja
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Thanks man , the spinbrush motor was real fast , untill it just stopped all of a sudden and hardly ran
Threw a stock iwaver motor in there with a 8T pinion , and it drifts allright. Im doing ok with selotape but i'll see about the electrical tape soon. Cheers for that man.
Any ideas on how I could get those magnets out of the spinbrush and into the iwaver motor ? I have absolutely no knowlage whatsoever in motors , or really how they work. Would I be stupid to try this ? I've got shitloads of iwaver motors so no worries if I stuff up on those.

Threw a stock iwaver motor in there with a 8T pinion , and it drifts allright. Im doing ok with selotape but i'll see about the electrical tape soon. Cheers for that man.
Any ideas on how I could get those magnets out of the spinbrush and into the iwaver motor ? I have absolutely no knowlage whatsoever in motors , or really how they work. Would I be stupid to try this ? I've got shitloads of iwaver motors so no worries if I stuff up on those.
We don't need no god damn roads!
- ynad
- bitNinja
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- betty.k
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you can completely rebuild a 130 sized (xmod, iwaver) motor and mix and match as you please.
to disassemble you need to bend the 2 tabs holding the endbell on and maybe desolder the caps that go from the terminals to the can, the endbell should come off and you can take out the armature.
there is usually a retaining spring holding the magnets in, it's tricky to remove and replace so have patience.
be careful during assembly, it's easy to bend or damage the brushes. you want to place the armature in the endbell first, brushes in place then put the can on. it's tricky as the magnets fight with you but with practice you'll find it's not as hard as you thought
try it out on a crappy motor first, something you can afford to destroy.
to disassemble you need to bend the 2 tabs holding the endbell on and maybe desolder the caps that go from the terminals to the can, the endbell should come off and you can take out the armature.
there is usually a retaining spring holding the magnets in, it's tricky to remove and replace so have patience.
be careful during assembly, it's easy to bend or damage the brushes. you want to place the armature in the endbell first, brushes in place then put the can on. it's tricky as the magnets fight with you but with practice you'll find it's not as hard as you thought

try it out on a crappy motor first, something you can afford to destroy.
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- bitNinja
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- SuperFly
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I don't think those are particularly critical or effect performance at all. I think they are simply to reduce interference and keep the signals going to the right place.honda_s2000 wrote:What kinda resistors/caps should I run ?
The ones I use say either "103" or "104", but you'll need one of the big brains around here to be more specific.
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Have you ever tried polishing/honing and air gapping the magnets. I used to do all that fun stuff with motors in 24th scale slot cars.betty.k wrote:you can completely rebuild a 130 sized (xmod, iwaver) motor and mix and match as you please.
to disassemble you need to bend the 2 tabs holding the endbell on and maybe desolder the caps that go from the terminals to the can, the endbell should come off and you can take out the armature.
there is usually a retaining spring holding the magnets in, it's tricky to remove and replace so have patience.
be careful during assembly, it's easy to bend or damage the brushes. you want to place the armature in the endbell first, brushes in place then put the can on. it's tricky as the magnets fight with you but with practice you'll find it's not as hard as you thought![]()
try it out on a crappy motor first, something you can afford to destroy.
Space the magnets with a .007-.013 gap (keep same on both sides). Polish the magnets with sand paper (or a dimond honing bit for a drill if you can find it and the money to get one.)
Does anyone know the phyical diameter of the armatures?
Sitting at my workbench in my comfortable little Hobbit hole.
- HACHI-RYOKU
- bitPimp
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It's funny you should mention the tooth brush motor. I just ripped one apart from curiosity. The brushes are old school brass twin sticks. There were 70 turns of >30 gauge. No ball bearings and an unvented can, and two weak, rough looking ferrite mags.
Not all electric toothbrushes are the same of course, but it's clear that they don't need a high performance motor.
I am going to mess with those brushes though. Kinda curious to how they compare to carbon or silver. I'm assuming they're old school because I pulled them out of four other very old motors.
Oh, the armature also had flimsy plastic comm parts. The kind that would most likely melt in an AWD Xmod EVO. That may have been what happened to your motor S2000. I would try taking out the armature, replacing the comm with a Fat silver comm, and putting it in an Atomic ball bearing case with carbon brushes and then see what it does. The Atomic BB case comes with some quality neo mags. If the armature is worth it's weight, you'll see it with this combo.
I like the car. I know nobody else seems to like the decals, but I do.[/u]
Not all electric toothbrushes are the same of course, but it's clear that they don't need a high performance motor.
I am going to mess with those brushes though. Kinda curious to how they compare to carbon or silver. I'm assuming they're old school because I pulled them out of four other very old motors.
Oh, the armature also had flimsy plastic comm parts. The kind that would most likely melt in an AWD Xmod EVO. That may have been what happened to your motor S2000. I would try taking out the armature, replacing the comm with a Fat silver comm, and putting it in an Atomic ball bearing case with carbon brushes and then see what it does. The Atomic BB case comes with some quality neo mags. If the armature is worth it's weight, you'll see it with this combo.
I like the car. I know nobody else seems to like the decals, but I do.[/u]
Cause I ride around town on my low-rider bicycle.
- betty.k
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