bitPimps.lixlink.com

Ok, original plan was to keep this secret until I'm all done, but if I do I'll end up forgetting some of the modifications. Plus, this Xmod board seems quite dead, so this might generate a bit more interest...

Xmod Evo chassis (channel 5) <RadioHack $40>
equipped with 2006 Nissan Titan body
- 4WD upgrade <RadioHack $15?>
- Bearing upgrade <RadioHack $20>
- Offroad Lift Kit upgrade <RadioHack $15>



It's a stock parts list truck, decent performer, with an uninspiring body. I see potential, but I'm not really feeling it yet...

* HiTec HS-55 servo <hobby shop $14>
* Red pinion off a 1/24 SS-M motor <ToyRUs $ N/A>
* 1972 Chevy Cheyenne body <another hobby shop $14>

Little bit of hack, chop, bump, grind...



Oh yeah! I'm starting to feel that!!!

The HS-55 had the board, and the stops removed, it's now a CrawlerBox. Both mounting ears were also removed. One pinion from a SS-M was installed on servo ouput shaft. Working on a low impact installation, and it will be as easy to swap as the stock motors. Just got to make it happen...

The Chevy Cheyenne body now sports a custom length shortbed, it'll probably have a tonnau cover.
It WILL have a full interior, setup with a Standard trans and a T-case and a Crawler Box, Amature or CB radio.
Antenna will probably have location changed and will be a scale CB-style loaded element dipole whip.
I haven't decided on the truck paint scheme yet, there are so many good ways to go.
And lots of small details I think you'll miss the first few times you look at it.

The Nissan Titan body will also have a few custom mods... All I'm gonna say right now is that everybody has seen the finished product in real life.

Steering rack will get the slop removed (brass bushings).
Another goal is to eliminate as much bump-steer as possible (offroad arms gave it a LOT).
Considering a Hi-Steer setup to eliminate all the damn bump-steer!
Softer springs would be nice.
Little bit of chassis cutting for more articulation.
Rear diff might get locked, but I want to use a way that it can be returned to open.
Various other mods I haven't yet decided on...

I feel that body man! Looking real sharp.

Awsome work, as always.

Now I don't feel like I got to see special spy pics though.

thats awesome
Hey, can you post some pics of that servo?

Thanks for the kind words so far! I think this body carries with it something that none of the RadioHack offerings have. Sounds like you kinda agree.

The wheelbase on this truck HAD to be shortened to fit the Titan/F150 length xmof chassis. Kinda annoying, but fairly straightforward since it's just the bed you have to deal with. I didn't want my bed to limit articulation, so it's assembled without a floor, and I made it so the tailgate will NOT open, and it's going to get a tonnau cover. Once it was converted to short bed, the wheelwells are the perfect size for the Offroad Kit tires to clear. Also there is no need to run fender flares as it tucks like a lifted truck on stock size wheels! Interior tub is being a PITA, but I will beat it into submission.

Request for pic of the servo... Held in place, I'm still working on the final mounting design.

By the way, red and black servo motor wires need swapped to match rotation direction of the Xmod chassis.

Cab on chassis, starting to get some interior in place


Other side


I'm thinking the Cheyenne is probably gonna get a Two-tone paint treatment. I can tell you it's NOT gonna be a trailer queen, but it's also not going to be a fully thrashed beater. Probably something like a fairly nice looking mildly modified trail rig that's generally well maintained. Couple bumper stickers and custom plates are planned. Paint probably won't happen until spring anyway, so I've got some time to think... Suggestions welcome, but I'll probably not use it.


My basic inspiration for this project actually came from another messageboard:
Most of the mods - http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9125
Crawlerbox - http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9313

wow, looking great already man, I'm really digging this.

I'm watching real carefully now dude.

So this 70's Chevy body has been shuffled around my desk a whole bunch and nothing much has been done...


I finally decided it's probably going to be Blue & White two-tone, I just need to get motivated on it. And that the bed will get a floor instead of a stupid Tonnau. But, that means I'll have to fabricate a pile of "scale bed junk".... Suggestions?

Should I let it articulate, or just stay IFS / IRS ?

If I use a 130 motor with it in an non-articulate IRS, I barely had to touch the rear bed.
If I use the crawlerbox, or let it articulate, it'll need a lot more hack & chop.

Fine, fine. You win. I'll post pics if you post replies.


Sitting in the garage during engine swap and bed rework.


Engine installed, interior still gutted.


Bobbed tail, lifted bed floor, still have a shiney hubcap on that front rim...

Well you know I'm partial to Chevies, but I just saw a Nikko FJ at Walmart today that looked like a perfect for Xmods... still though, I like your Cheby.

***BUMP***

So I laid some paint down.




It needs some touchup on the blue down low, probably going to attempt oxidizing the paint a little, then the bed is going to get flat or satin black inside, then some rust and on to detailing.

Digging the paint man

As for the rust - was talking to a really cool old (and i mean mid-70's) guy at a hobby shop the other day with some super-real looking rust on a HO scale train. I think SWG mentioned the technique on here some time back, but i'd forgotten it until this old timer reminded me

He said he'd brushed a very thin layer of glue where he wanted the rust, and then brushed some powdered metal from his bench grinder's catch tray over the top.

He waited for the glue to dry before brushing over with a little salt water, then painted it as normal, before using a sandpaper stick to rub back the areas he wanted more aggressively rusted, and hit them with more salty water.
The cool thing was, the bits he'd left masked under the paint had begun to bubble really subtly, and lift the paint like the real thing!

as for rust, i have tried this once and only once, but it did give me results.


cinnimon.......or however you spell it.


go ahead try it (mix with glue)

Never thought about Cinnamon. Might make my truck too tasty though. I *REALLY* like cinnamon.

If I'd known about that real rust idea before painting, we'd have a winner. But as it sits now, with its: carefully planned, painted in the dark, when it was too cold, not completely compatible paint systems, with insufficent flashtimes... I was actually able to get some rather nice 'bad paint' effects! (I wonder why... Actually I'm suprised the paint wasn't so bad it would have immediately fallen off the truck and burst into flames!!!)

The hood, and above beltline blue on cab, and bed checked a bit. Some of the white in the beltline took on masking tape pattern. Some of the white pooled and bubbled a little along some of the more rust-prone areas.

After I fix the masking errors... Fine sandpaper to cut the gloss and flatten a little bit where the sun would do more damage. Spraying kandy in the dark got me some uneven paint colors, which is already pretty close to sun-faded or if I leave it alone it's a truck with an old "20 Foot Paintjob". Rust up the paint boogers. Detail.

Lesson: Don't rush taping a project, that's been sitting on your desk for over a year, just so you can beat the rain on a cold night because you suddenly feel like painting. wost obvious the rockers (um, yeah..), and wing mirror supports (doesn't matter, they'll be silver).
---
And remember, don't try this at home. Ever. I'm what you call a professional.