bitPimps.lixlink.com

After reading Clint's mod here on bitPimps http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=8425
I decided to try this for myself. So I bought a firelap 2.0 RTR and started hacking. I double checked my connections and fired it up. The servo started to jitter, and then a puff a magic smoke escaped from the iwaver board. I think my mistake was using two 720mAh Li-ions.

So back to square one. Does anyone know if the iwaver boards can handle Li-ions? Short of buying another firelap RTR, where can I find the electronics board? I know where to buy MR-02 boards for a mini-z, could I get one to work with an Xmod Evo servo?

I've seen Gen 1's converted to use hobby grade electronics, how about using hobby grade electronics with the Evo servo?

Anyway, I ended up using a stock Evo board and servo with a stencil chassis, the Li-ion batteries that I believe fried the iwaver board, and gpm alloy all around for my car. This thing is stupid fast. And it's AWD to boot. Problem is I don't have a body long enough to fit over it.

Thanks for reading.

Okay, I'm curious why wouldn't you just run the firelap, IMO the Firelap 2.0 is way better than any xmod.

I enjoy the xmod chassis a whole lot more. When I was disassembling the firelap, the plastic felt really cheap. Something had broke off even before I took a screwdriver to it. I couldn't tell where it came from.

Besides, it looked like a fun project to do. It was up until the magic smoke escaped.

If you have most the parts intact I'll buy what you have left.

Ok. I'll get everything together this weekend, post some pics, and we'll work something out.

if the deal with shaun doesn't fall through, I'll take it. let me know

syk324@hotmail.com

Sorry, but I found someone locally that wanted the chassis.

So I got another board and replaced the Evo servo motor with this: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/i ... OTOR_.html
It worked, but wouldn't turn to the right. So I messed around with it, used the servo motor that came with the Iwaver MZ-01 board, checked my connections, the servo went nuts, then the board fried.

Does Clint still come around here? I sent him a PM, but I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas? I could try to replace the Evo servo pot with the Iwaver, but I'm not sure I could get it to work as the Iwaver pot face rotates. So placing it in the Evo servo case might stop it from moving.

Help?

Some pics might help. I'll try and see what you've done wrong, as I've been into Xmods for a while. I haven't done the board conversion though.

:edit: SO the POT moves... after soldering it and trimming it to the place where you want it, drop a few drops of glue in there to hold it. There's 5 wires leading from the servo to the board, so do you have that right? I'll try to get some reference pics for you from my Z and Xmods.

:edit2: Well after looking.. the Z has 4 wire and the Evo has 5 wire... huh. I'll find something for you.

fameless wrote: Does Clint still come around here? I sent him a PM, but I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas? I could try to replace the Evo servo pot with the Iwaver, but I'm not sure I could get it to work as the Iwaver pot face rotates. So placing it in the Evo servo case might stop it from moving.

Help?

got your PM. i'm either sleeping or working during the night. so I cant always check this site everyday. I'll just post here.

definitly get some pics showing what wires you soldered where.

Orange and Black evo pot wires go to pad S1 on the iw board.
White pot wire goes to pad S2.

if you did that correctly, and the servo motor spins to one direction
only..then just switch the polarity of the wires to the motor. having the
motor forced into one direction for too long can overheat the steering
fets. which is probably what happened to your board.

Z/iw has 4 wires because they tie two pins of the pot together. the evo
uses all 3 pot conections separately for a total of 5 wires. hence why we
have to solder both the orange and black evo wires to a single pad on the
iwaver/Z to get it to work(it simulates 4 wires..you could remove one wire and jumper the pot instead..but thats more work.)

No pics yet, I already tore everything apart. But I think I found my problem. I took apart the servo and some teeth were stripped from the gear that is meshed with the swing arm of the servo pot. I'd post a pic, but I can't get my cam to take a good close up.

Anyway, the gear probably stripped when I initially hooked everything up. Then I switched the servo motor wires and everything was working, besides the steering because of the stripped gear.

If only I had torn apart the servo instead of messing around with the connections on the board, I might not have fried it.

To ensure proper polarity on the servo motor, can't I just use the servo motor that comes with the Iwaver board? I also noticed that the Iwaver servo motors don't have a cap like the Evo servo, so is using one necessary?

I have one more board coming my way. Before I give it power after hooking everything up, I'll post a pic...

You can power it up. When you do, leave the servo motor out of the chassis. this way you can watch the motor behavior while you manually
move the direction of the wheels(turns the pot). This way you cant
fry anything if it doesnt work right.