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hi so i got my rsx about 4 or so years ago when these first came out. i just found mine the other day and decided to use it, but when i pulled the throttle it would stutter forward then stop. reverse is fine an the range is not an isseue. im wondering if some how the board got blown or if there is a more simple solution. i also know it is not the motor because i tried different ones with the same result
thanks

anything getting hot on the curcuit board?

i smelled some burning.... i cant check now cuz im out of town but im guessing it might be a fret problem?. i just saw it on another post...could this be whats wrong?

could be if you play your xmod lke jimi hendrix, otherwise i'd say it's a screwed fet.

haha i meant fet lol typo hahaha so is replacing the fet an easy job or should i go to a hobbie shop?

it can be tricky, involves some delicate soldering.

BettyK wrote:

involves some delicate soldering

Oh, that's what I've been doing wrong. So I guess a quarter sized glob of solder is wrong?

Soldering isn't so hard if you have the right flux and right solder. I use 60/40 solder and lucky bobs acid flux, makes soldering super easy and a snap.

SHAUN wrote:Soldering isn't so hard if you have the right flux and right solder. I use 60/40 solder and lucky bobs acid flux, makes soldering super easy and a snap.

DO NOT use acid flux on electronics, it will corrode the board. Acid flux should only be used on metals (brass, steel) like when making chassis for 24th scale slot cars.

60/40 rosin core solder should be fine.

BilboBaggins wrote:

SHAUN wrote:Soldering isn't so hard if you have the right flux and right solder. I use 60/40 solder and lucky bobs acid flux, makes soldering super easy and a snap.

DO NOT use acid flux on electronics, it will corrode the board. Acid flux should only be used on metals (brass, steel) like when making chassis for 24th scale slot cars.

60/40 rosin core solder should be fine.

Ok see I'm a dumb shit. I didn't know that. I always use it on my motor though and I haven't had a problem. Don't mean to be a thread stealer but.

Bilbo is it ok to use it on my motor?

SHAUN wrote:Soldering isn't so hard if you have the right flux and right solder. I use 60/40 solder and lucky bobs acid flux, makes soldering super easy and a snap.

BilboBaggins wrote:DO NOT use acid flux on electronics, it will corrode the board. Acid flux should only be used on metals (brass, steel) like when making chassis for 24th scale slot cars.

SHAUN wrote:Ok see I'm a dumb shit. I didn't know that. I always use it on my motor though and I haven't had a problem. Don't mean to be a thread stealer but.

Bilbo is it ok to use it on my motor?

We know you are, but we still tolerate you.

On the can to soldier it into the chassis - Yes.
Wires - NO.

I know I didn't explain it here, but I know I explained it to somebody one night via AIM.

Acid Flux is for metals. Great for crafts and building wire/brass/steel chassis for slot cars. (I think I may have to make a wire chassis for a bit.)

Rosin Flux you have to be careful with. There are some that are used for plumbing that cannot be used on electronics, read the damn package.

Rosin core soldier can be used on electronics safely. I also use a hot iron because you'll be able to get the soldier to flow faster and get the iron off the board faster to prevent circuit board damage. If the connection looks dull and gray do it again. That would be a cold joint and will not work properly.

When working on circuitry make sure you go over all the connections (use a magnifying glass if you have one) to make sure you didn't have the soldier jump connections before powering it up. If you don't it could be Puff the Magic Circuit Board for you (I know I've done it myself once.) I love the smell of burnt circuit board in the morning.

i don't remember exactly, but recall an issue on gen1 xmod.
if antenna wire touches motor it can short out. on the smaller board (receiver)
somewhere around antenna wire, there is a resistor that burns out. You may look into that.
However, I'm not sure. May someone else add more info?

Shaun wrote:

Don't mean to be a thread stealer but.

Ditto.

Bilbo wrote:

(I think I may have to make a wire chassis for a bit.)

I've been working on a tube framed--well brass rod framed--American Le Mans (or Can Am, I haven't decided yet, both will work) car, but its going to be a little larger than the stock bits. Anyway, the reason I brought it up is that I'm used to working with high carbon steel wire for the 1/10 scale sprinters but I've never tried brass rod before. I've been experimenting with Harris Safety Silver (#56 brazing rod) and it seems strong enough...but, what do you slot car guys use for those cool 1/24 scale wire framed slots? Is there something better? I'm sort of lost going back to gas welding (brazing).

sidewinder wrote:I've been working on a tube framed--well brass rod framed--American Le Mans (or Can Am, I haven't decided yet, both will work) car, but its going to be a little larger than the stock bits. Anyway, the reason I brought it up is that I'm used to working with high carbon steel wire for the 1/10 scale sprinters but I've never tried brass rod before. I've been experimenting with Harris Safety Silver (#56 brazing rod) and it seems strong enough...but, what do you slot car guys use for those cool 1/24 scale wire framed slots? Is there something better? I'm sort of lost going back to gas welding (brazing).

When I was building them we used Piano Wire (sometimes called Music Wire.) Most LHS's will have them in various thicknesses.

ynad wrote:i don't remember exactly, but recall an issue on gen1 xmod.
if antenna wire touches motor it can short out. on the smaller board (receiver)
somewhere around antenna wire, there is a resistor that burns out. You may look into that.
However, I'm not sure. May someone else add more info?

the "resistor" you speak of is called an "inductor". frying that only kills the range. he's most likely got a fried fet.