The Gluton, see Websters difinition
-
LBRC
- bitGangsta'
- Posts: 361
- Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 1:25 am
- Location: North West
- Contact:
The Gluton, see Websters difinition
Sorry but I started disassembling this before I remembered that I should take a photo, it really does look quite spiffy completely assembled.
First how many people out there think that a carbon fiber Z with 2x14 turbo and a motor that sells for $60 or so would be faster than greased shit?
If you said yes you might want to see someone about your gullibility prob.
I’ve seen these for sale on eBay and it’s makers web page for a phenomenal price and I suppose it was only a matter of time before someone sent me one and asked if there was anything that could be done other than scrap it for parts. There is so much wrong with the concept that I don’t know where to begin.
I guess I should start with weight, the only reason to use a CF chassis is to save weight but this pig weighs an obese 160 grams without the body or any type of damper setup. For comparison my I waver with the same PN racing motor mount, similar differential, and aluminum wheels weighs 131 grams without the body. If you add 14 grams to make up for the lighter lithium-ions the pig is still 15 grams heavier than a plastic chassis.
Now how about those 2x14 stacks they sure do look like something don’t they. One of the first things I do when I get a car with large stacks is break out the multimeter and check for opens between the top of the stack and the circuit board I’m rarely disappointed and this car was no exception can you say 2x2/9, that’s right if all of the pins aren’t soldered together you don’t get to use anything above the open, so just for grins I fixed it since I’d never tried to drive a car with a 2x14 before the throttle response on this actually has a noticeable lag time! Yep, just like a real turbo pull the trigger and count to three before anything starts moving. Shit even if a 2x14 actually did work with the cheesy dime store battery wiring what’s the point.
Ah the motor, I don’t want to say who makes these so I can’t name the motor but I’ve run several across the performance monitor and haven’t seen one yet that I would pay more than $15 for, and that would be just to get the bb can and magnets, don’t get me wrong it’s not exactly slow but the hand wound marvel it’s advertised to be it ain’t. I can slaughter this motor with a plasma dash armature in an Iwaver pro can and that’s before I put one on the lathe for a little balancing and commutator work.
Batteries, oh yea the problem with 900 mAh NiMH cells is that you sacrifice current delivery for extra run time and since this car was suppose to be all about speed what’s the point of the extended life camera batteries, why not use high current drain cells, besides soldering wires onto button tops just looks silly.
Yea this car is faster than a stock Mini-Z but both my lithium Iwaver and Smoke MR-02 can lap it consistently in fewer than 6 laps on a 12 x 24 oval, shit in a drag race every one of my Xmods beat it.
Where to start, well first the FET stacks have to go 2x4 max, then I’ll have to weigh everything separately first but maybe the chassis can be saved by replacing all of the steal screws and posts with aluminum. The owner wants to keep the motor but I’ll do a little balancing and commutator clean-up. As for the batteries I’d like to put a couple of E-TEC HP lithium polly cells in but will have to see if I can do anything about the silly extra long T-plate first.
Just bitchen again, I put this here because of the shear amount of hype the gluttonous pig of a car gets. It seems to me if your going to say it’s fast then maybe you should actually make it that way first.
First how many people out there think that a carbon fiber Z with 2x14 turbo and a motor that sells for $60 or so would be faster than greased shit?
If you said yes you might want to see someone about your gullibility prob.
I’ve seen these for sale on eBay and it’s makers web page for a phenomenal price and I suppose it was only a matter of time before someone sent me one and asked if there was anything that could be done other than scrap it for parts. There is so much wrong with the concept that I don’t know where to begin.
I guess I should start with weight, the only reason to use a CF chassis is to save weight but this pig weighs an obese 160 grams without the body or any type of damper setup. For comparison my I waver with the same PN racing motor mount, similar differential, and aluminum wheels weighs 131 grams without the body. If you add 14 grams to make up for the lighter lithium-ions the pig is still 15 grams heavier than a plastic chassis.
Now how about those 2x14 stacks they sure do look like something don’t they. One of the first things I do when I get a car with large stacks is break out the multimeter and check for opens between the top of the stack and the circuit board I’m rarely disappointed and this car was no exception can you say 2x2/9, that’s right if all of the pins aren’t soldered together you don’t get to use anything above the open, so just for grins I fixed it since I’d never tried to drive a car with a 2x14 before the throttle response on this actually has a noticeable lag time! Yep, just like a real turbo pull the trigger and count to three before anything starts moving. Shit even if a 2x14 actually did work with the cheesy dime store battery wiring what’s the point.
Ah the motor, I don’t want to say who makes these so I can’t name the motor but I’ve run several across the performance monitor and haven’t seen one yet that I would pay more than $15 for, and that would be just to get the bb can and magnets, don’t get me wrong it’s not exactly slow but the hand wound marvel it’s advertised to be it ain’t. I can slaughter this motor with a plasma dash armature in an Iwaver pro can and that’s before I put one on the lathe for a little balancing and commutator work.
Batteries, oh yea the problem with 900 mAh NiMH cells is that you sacrifice current delivery for extra run time and since this car was suppose to be all about speed what’s the point of the extended life camera batteries, why not use high current drain cells, besides soldering wires onto button tops just looks silly.
Yea this car is faster than a stock Mini-Z but both my lithium Iwaver and Smoke MR-02 can lap it consistently in fewer than 6 laps on a 12 x 24 oval, shit in a drag race every one of my Xmods beat it.
Where to start, well first the FET stacks have to go 2x4 max, then I’ll have to weigh everything separately first but maybe the chassis can be saved by replacing all of the steal screws and posts with aluminum. The owner wants to keep the motor but I’ll do a little balancing and commutator clean-up. As for the batteries I’d like to put a couple of E-TEC HP lithium polly cells in but will have to see if I can do anything about the silly extra long T-plate first.
Just bitchen again, I put this here because of the shear amount of hype the gluttonous pig of a car gets. It seems to me if your going to say it’s fast then maybe you should actually make it that way first.
-
betty.k
- bitPimp
- Posts: 4090
- Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2003 4:52 pm
- Location: la la land
- Contact:
-
backdrift
- bitGangsta'
- Posts: 402
- Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2004 7:42 am
definitly a NML, look at the hook up wires.. hmm well that stack is a bunch of bull shit, no 130 in that car would pull enough current to fry more than a 2x8 stack or so, not even that.. the 4xxx FET's i belive are 6.8 amps when its a 2x1 stack.. which means all of those is just a waste of money.. u can run a plasma on a 2x4 stack so theres no way u need that many, since the plasma is 27 turns.. id go with a minizworkshop.com monster motor, it looks pretty good and ive heard nothing but good reviews about there stuff.. the 3sec lag time seems really bad..
.... 
.... 
.... 
.... 
-
codesuidae
- bitPlaya'
- Posts: 196
- Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 2:34 pm
- Location: Omaha