New Plasmatomic motor tutorial!

pimptothemax · Post by **pimptothemax** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 5:05 am

lol could someone just try to awncer my mother

ing question??? i cant find a true awncer anywere.

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:00 am

no, we will not askncwer your muthafucking question until you go fucking look at the fucking woah nelly site and read the fucking information that's freely available to anyone, even stupid fuckwads like you.

Finks · Post by **Finks** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:56 am

Please, please misspell answer again horribly...... This here is one of those dudes that eventually admits he is an invalid retard that never gets to go outside and who's only friend is his RCs.

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:59 pm

pimptothemax wrote:k thx guys ill do some research

by the way would a wo nelly turbo work on an x-mod and protect the modded engine from blowing?

*1st generaiton x-mod*

and i geuss ill get a heatsink just to be safe

thx people

pimptothemax

nelly works on all 1:28 shit. don't need a heatsink, it's too fucken good for a heatsink....

and to answer this pm'd question:

would this work?

I am thinking about buying an x-mod evo soon when they are released. I will probably buy the turbo*bug* with a plasma-atomic moter setup that i wil be build based from your tutorial.

I reailized things like the fact that the bug is *meant* for the Epoch Indoor Racer.

so all-in-all would this work?

(only asking *not to bug you* because you are the creator of this set up and i dont wanna' risk blowing mony on a setup that wont work)

Thanks alot,

pimptothemax

the bug will not work. it's only designed for the Epoch. signals and current limits are different. The EVO will work with a plasmatomic (see my EVO hot motor test threads at any xmod forum). The mosfets will get VERY HOT though and you will possibly blow them.

Get the new EVO mosfet performance pack from here: http://shop.ausmicro.net I'll be posting an instll guide soon......

ph2t.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 8:53 am

The capacitors on the motors. You said a 103 works. Will anything else work?

Also, I'm having trouble locating them under the description of "103". What are the values on this capacitor.

Sorry, I don't have a lot of experience locating these things on the net and I don't have much available for local electronics stores.

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 9:45 am

HACHI-RYOKU wrote:The capacitors on the motors. You said a 103 works. Will anything else work?

Also, I'm having trouble locating them under the description of "103". What are the values on this capacitor.

Sorry, I don't have a lot of experience locating these things on the net and I don't have much available for local electronics stores.

I purchased a bag from this guy. Cant go wrong for just a buck.
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-01uf-50v-CERAMIC ... dZViewItem

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 3:42 pm

the 103 means 10 with 3 zeros, starting from 0.0000001. So that's 10,000 picofarads or, 10 nanofarads.......Which is 0.01 uF.

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 4:46 pm

HACHI-RYOKU wrote:The capacitors on the motors. You said a 103 works. Will anything else work?

Also, I'm having trouble locating them under the description of "103". What are the values on this capacitor.

Sorry, I don't have a lot of experience locating these things on the net and I don't have much available for local electronics stores.

They sell these at Radio Shack. If you look in the drawer bins they keep stuff like micro-switches and LEDs, they will have packs of capacitors. I couldn't find any packs of 103s specifically, but they had a pack with a shitload of miscellaneous capacitors for like $5, and I could see two of them inside with "103" stamped on them. They are about the same color as Advil. Also, I'm not sure that the "103" is the only one that will work for the intended purpose.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 6:15 pm

All good info. Thanx guys. I picked some up off of the ebay guy for a $1 + $1.25 shipping. $2.25 total.

Much better than the Atomic mods capacitors. They were trying to sell 2 for $2.25 + $7.50 S/H!

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Fri Nov 25, 2005 2:07 pm

I gots a question. The machine winding on the plasma dash armeture looks kinda messy. I was thinking about rewinding it by hand. Is this a good idea? How would it affect performance? I'm guessing it would make it faster, but would it draw more current and over heat?

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Fri Nov 25, 2005 3:56 pm

IF you can wind it really well by hand (trust me, to do a good pattern wind takes lots of practice, time and skill) then yes, do it. A pattern wound armature will have less current draw and most likely a high top speed due to being better balanced than a machine wound.

AS for overheating, I'm not sure that attribute is a function (or dependant) on wind type.

ph2t.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:04 pm

OK, I put one of these bad boys together and tried using it in my first gen Xmod with a 3x2 stack of 7317's and 4 cells. I used the ferrite magnets. After 15 minutes, the batteries, motor and fets were very hot. I also wasn't getting good performance out of it. I used an 11 tooth pinion. I took the motor out and replaced it with a stage 2 motor and a 10 tooth pinion. That motor was faster and had more torque.

I don't want to mislead anybody. I wouldn't say the stage 2 is better than the plasma-atomic. But I will say that the first gen Xmod either can't handle it or I did something wrong.

I'll swap with the neo magnets and see what happens.

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:21 pm

dude, the plasmatomic pwns more than it's fair share of hot motors.

Make sure you did the "tuning" part of it with the end bell bearing placement. this is VERY important. Most likely you have a binding issue within the can somewhere.

ie: check the video in the tute, make sure you test the internal pressure of the can against the armature without the magnets installed. It has to run smooth.

From the sound of it, with all the heat, there a friction issue somewhere.

Next step would be to run it in the xmod but not installed. See if it gets hot then, most likely if it doesn't then it's a gear mesh issue. If it still runs mega hot then it's an issue with the motor itself.

capisce?

In xmods, the neo magnet config for the plasmatomic is a must. If you go lithium, the the ferrites are a viable combo. On 4 cells, the ferrite magnets just won't have the balls in an AWD xmod. In a mini-z it's a bit different.

best of luck!

ph2t.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Tue Nov 29, 2005 5:21 pm

Yep, the neo magnets are much better. Now my XMOD rocks with an 11 tooth pinion! Gets off the line fast and goes fast! A big improvement over the stage 2 motors.

I am a little concerned though. The fets were getting kinda warm after about 10 minutes of running. I know fets can run rather warm without any problems. I'll give it a complete test run this Thursday and see what happens. If I blow a fet, I blow a fet.

It happens. I'm guessing it should be ok though.

chrome · Post by **chrome** » Tue Nov 29, 2005 9:42 pm

So anybody used a plasmatomic motor in a stock Evo Xmod? I was wondering how well it would preform since I can't quite fet my own xmod yet.

Later,
Chrome...

bitPimps.lixlink.com

New Plasmatomic motor tutorial!

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