Got an MR02; another drift clip pg. 4
- HACHI-RYOKU
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Here's a suggestion if it's not too late; Cut off the fins on the front of the car. I noticed that when you hit something with them, all the pressure from the hit goes to the bottom of that area and pushes in and up. This will make that spot of the body come off easily after repeated hits. This has happened to me and it's hard to get that piece to stay on even after many different types of adhesives and putty combinations. Finally I hacked off those fins and it's staying on much better now.
Here's some pics. The first is the Epson body. If you look at the front left quarter of the car you can see the piece that I had to keep reglueing.

Now here's what I did after. It still cracked, but at least it's not coming off every time I race it.

There's putty inside too which helps. It's just been a super weak piece ever since. I wish I had done this from the begining.

Here's some pics. The first is the Epson body. If you look at the front left quarter of the car you can see the piece that I had to keep reglueing.
Now here's what I did after. It still cracked, but at least it's not coming off every time I race it.
There's putty inside too which helps. It's just been a super weak piece ever since. I wish I had done this from the begining.
Cause I ride around town on my low-rider bicycle.
- SuperFly
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Probably a good idea if you're running around hard vertical surfaces. I run almost exclusively on RCP, but the collisions with other cars can be just as bad as a brick wall. Mine have stayed put, but I have broken my wing off 3 times and since I took this picture I caved in part of the side near the rear wheel.


- HACHI-RYOKU
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As a matter of fact, it was a head on collision with a Xmod EVO Lancer that broke off that piece. Those Kyosho bodies look sweet but the Xmod bodies are like rocks. The hit didn't even leave a smudge on the Lancer body, but the Kyosho body got knocked off and broke.
Cause I ride around town on my low-rider bicycle.
- SuperFly
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Yeah, that's why we don't allow xmods on the track at the same time. Not that a mini-z couldn't whip just about any xmod, but it's sort of like putting a Formula One car on the track with a NASCAR car.HACHI-RYOKU wrote:As a matter of fact, it was a head on collision with a Xmod EVO Lancer that broke off that piece. Those Kyosho bodies look sweet but the Xmod bodies are like rocks. The hit didn't even leave a smudge on the Lancer body, but the Kyosho body got knocked off and broke.
The reason mini-z's don't damage eachother so much is the mass of each car is much closer so one car isn't getting the bad end of physics.
- HACHI-RYOKU
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That's true, Xmods are at least 3~4 times the weight and the bodies are much thicker as well as attached to the chassis much better, so there's not a lot of bounce when it hits.SuperFly wrote:Yeah, that's why we don't allow xmods on the track at the same time. Not that a mini-z couldn't whip just about any xmod, but it's sort of like putting a Formula One car on the track with a NASCAR car.HACHI-RYOKU wrote:As a matter of fact, it was a head on collision with a Xmod EVO Lancer that broke off that piece. Those Kyosho bodies look sweet but the Xmod bodies are like rocks. The hit didn't even leave a smudge on the Lancer body, but the Kyosho body got knocked off and broke.
The reason mini-z's don't damage eachother so much is the mass of each car is much closer so one car isn't getting the bad end of physics.
It hits like a damn brick!

Cause I ride around town on my low-rider bicycle.
- color0
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i don't really want to cut off the fins (i like the look), but i'll definitely reinforce that section with something underneath. thanks for the tip hachi-ryoku. of course, the other cool thing is that white bodies are thicker than autoscales. 
so far this car has been nice to me, all the hits are to the rear quarter sections, where superfly caved his shell in. but it's all light taps, because there isn't much grip to keep the car on its path. gotta love drifting.
superfly, that's the bloodiest nsx i've ever seen.

so far this car has been nice to me, all the hits are to the rear quarter sections, where superfly caved his shell in. but it's all light taps, because there isn't much grip to keep the car on its path. gotta love drifting.
superfly, that's the bloodiest nsx i've ever seen.

Greyscale Racing
- betty.k
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ouch, my foot!!!! WATCH WHERE YA BLOODY DRIVING!!!!betty.k wrote:i claimed many a z scalp in my xmod period! i'd plow through those japanese fuckers leaving a trail of broken body mounts, h plates, knuckles and the xmod would barely be scuffed!
People are mean to you because you're a fucking idiot.
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- color0
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- color0
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those hydrogen bonds shall bother me no further; the stuff from rcmart came!
pictures and mini-reviews:


atomic disk damper: very nice fit and finish, and a little pledge (furniture polish) loosened up the plates and let them slide free. in driving, forward traction is good, but the damper tends to make the car get caught up in the gaps in the marble. i'll have to tweak something to fix that.

atomic LCG motor mount: again, very nice fit and finish. no issues with DDS plate clearance. adjustable damper post means i can dial-in different amounts of over/understeer; and of course, it goes as low as you could sanely go.
3racing t-plate (soft): good quality, found a few strands of carbon on the side, picked 'em off and washed my hands, lol... the plate itself is harder than the one on the 3racing CF motor mount for some reason.

3racing gold-colored kingpins: just wow. i have a feeling they used the Ti-nitride or a similar variant on the kingpins; they're so darn smooth, and just the right diameter. there's now 0 play on the knuckle (though wheel play is stilll there), and yet i can bump the chassis down a little and the suspension works fine. and for $2.90, just freaking wow.
yes i am ditching the NSX and 94MM; ordered an M3 off MZR. it'll be here anyday now, so i'm just gonna drive the chassis around. but, i'm definitely not used to it, and spinning out everywhere (not enough weight).
pictures and mini-reviews:


atomic disk damper: very nice fit and finish, and a little pledge (furniture polish) loosened up the plates and let them slide free. in driving, forward traction is good, but the damper tends to make the car get caught up in the gaps in the marble. i'll have to tweak something to fix that.

atomic LCG motor mount: again, very nice fit and finish. no issues with DDS plate clearance. adjustable damper post means i can dial-in different amounts of over/understeer; and of course, it goes as low as you could sanely go.
3racing t-plate (soft): good quality, found a few strands of carbon on the side, picked 'em off and washed my hands, lol... the plate itself is harder than the one on the 3racing CF motor mount for some reason.

3racing gold-colored kingpins: just wow. i have a feeling they used the Ti-nitride or a similar variant on the kingpins; they're so darn smooth, and just the right diameter. there's now 0 play on the knuckle (though wheel play is stilll there), and yet i can bump the chassis down a little and the suspension works fine. and for $2.90, just freaking wow.

yes i am ditching the NSX and 94MM; ordered an M3 off MZR. it'll be here anyday now, so i'm just gonna drive the chassis around. but, i'm definitely not used to it, and spinning out everywhere (not enough weight).
Greyscale Racing
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