Page 1 of 1
motor break-in
Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 6:09 am
by kvik369
This probably an old topic but do you guys break-in your motors? If so, by water dipping or by running with a batt pack? (or any other way)
Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 9:20 am
by betty.k
i run a motor with 2 x AAA batteries till it stops then do it again in the other direction. you basically want to wear the brushes so they make maximum contact on the comutator with as little heat as possible. have a fan blowing on the motor while you do the break in.
having said that i've just dropped new motors in and gone with it. it just takes 2 - 3 runs for it to break in fully.
Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 9:35 am
by kvik369
If I'm understanding you, it will still break-in by running it , just slower. Another forum I've read said that you will permanently damage the motor if you run it under load before break-in. Thanks for the help
Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 9:49 am
by sg219
No, your pretty safe by just running it a couple of times. Maybe if it was a larger scale motor, but 130's are safe to just run and go.
Is the site thats telling you that you'll damage the motor by running it, trying to sell break-in kits in their e-shop?
Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 10:02 am
by kvik369
nah - just someone sharing their "knowledge"
Thanks again
Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 10:22 am
by chrome
My personal method of break in is what I use on my 540 motors in my 1/10 scales. I take a drill and put the motor shaft into the drill as if it were a bit. I hold the motor can, then let the drill go for awhile. This sets the brushes to the comm with no electricity which means zero chance of arcing.
I've seen people water dip 130's, but it seems like more trouble than it's worth. When I broke in my x-speed, I just set the trim on my tx all the way so the car ran at about half throttle and set the car up on a box so it couldn't go anywhere. I drained a cheapo set of alkalines. Seems to work fine.
Later,
Chrome...
Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:50 pm
by betty.k
kvik369 wrote: Another forum I've read said that you will permanently damage the motor if you run it under load before break-in.
you can if you get the motor too hot. just keep it as cool as you can and try to be gentle on the first run.
as mentioned this is more important with 540 size motors. i recently replaced the brushes in one and the car wouldn't move until i'd broken them in.
Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2004 6:12 pm
by z-beam
chrome wrote:My personal method of break in is what I use on my 540 motors in my 1/10 scales. I take a drill and put the motor shaft into the drill as if it were a bit. I hold the motor can, then let the drill go for awhile. This sets the brushes to the comm with no electricity which means zero chance of arcing.
I've seen people water dip 130's, but it seems like more trouble than it's worth. When I broke in my x-speed, I just set the trim on my tx all the way so the car ran at about half throttle and set the car up on a box so it couldn't go anywhere. I drained a cheapo set of alkalines. Seems to work fine.
Later,
Chrome...
im pretty sure that if you spin the shaft on a motor it will generate electricity. they work both ways, i.e electricity to spin or spin to electricity.
Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2004 6:28 pm
by hogjowlz
you guys are wasting time and energy. break the fuckers in by running the car around.