Beef up you Iwaver 04 shock stay
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crazydave
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Beef up you Iwaver 04 shock stay
Ok, I didn't really think it was that bad, but it is. The shock stay will break on the 04 with only the slightest abuse. Not sure how I did in mine, I think I snapped it catching a little air on the edge of a throw rug.
So when I glued it, I decided to beef it up to support my glueing, but it has since taken a pretty good beating, and is still going. So I figured this would be a good idea for anyone to do, befoire they actually break it.
Before we start, here is a picture of it finished, so you can hopefully picture what I'm talking about.
Ok so you see the how there is the 2 ball link attachments coming off the flat area behind the shocks? That is the weak area. It's got a tiny bit of bracing around the ball joint, so it tranfers the energy to the flat area. It will more than likely break just in front of the ball mount.
So what we're gonna do it glue a flat piece plastic across that area. Before we start that, I want to go over my glueing technique, so we're on the same page. For this you want some thin CA. Super Glue brand stuff will work fine. You need to sand both surfaces. Apply a liberal amount of glue, and squeeze or clamp together. Since we're using a little extra glue, you to make sure it's completely dry all the way through, before you release. So give it about 10 minutes. If you keep squeezing and releasing, to see if it's stuck yet, you'll pump air bubbles into it. Absolutely never try to reposition after a few seconds. If you lose your position, let it dry, resand and start over. Once done, go over all the seams with a liberal bead of glue, being careful not to let it run on work area, glueing your project down, and causing a mess. Let that dry for 24 to 48 hours. When you use large gooping quanities of Super Glue, it takes longer to cure.
Ok so ow that we're on the same page, we want to glue a flat piece of plastic across the top. I like to use Zip Zap packaging, it's tough and has some flex. You're gonna want to glue it so it's touching where the ball joint is, for more support. I beveled my edge, so it would make better contact. After I glued that, and ran a bead around the edge, I let it dry over night.
That probably would have been good enough, but I wanted to be sure. So I sanded the piece of plastic I glued, level to the tops of the bases of the ball joints. Then layed a couple smaller pieces that overlapped the flat part and ball joint area.
I'm not gonna promise this to be bomb proof, but it's taken a pretty good amount of abuse, so I don't see how it can hurt to do this before yours breaks.
So when I glued it, I decided to beef it up to support my glueing, but it has since taken a pretty good beating, and is still going. So I figured this would be a good idea for anyone to do, befoire they actually break it.
Before we start, here is a picture of it finished, so you can hopefully picture what I'm talking about.
Ok so you see the how there is the 2 ball link attachments coming off the flat area behind the shocks? That is the weak area. It's got a tiny bit of bracing around the ball joint, so it tranfers the energy to the flat area. It will more than likely break just in front of the ball mount.
So what we're gonna do it glue a flat piece plastic across that area. Before we start that, I want to go over my glueing technique, so we're on the same page. For this you want some thin CA. Super Glue brand stuff will work fine. You need to sand both surfaces. Apply a liberal amount of glue, and squeeze or clamp together. Since we're using a little extra glue, you to make sure it's completely dry all the way through, before you release. So give it about 10 minutes. If you keep squeezing and releasing, to see if it's stuck yet, you'll pump air bubbles into it. Absolutely never try to reposition after a few seconds. If you lose your position, let it dry, resand and start over. Once done, go over all the seams with a liberal bead of glue, being careful not to let it run on work area, glueing your project down, and causing a mess. Let that dry for 24 to 48 hours. When you use large gooping quanities of Super Glue, it takes longer to cure.
Ok so ow that we're on the same page, we want to glue a flat piece of plastic across the top. I like to use Zip Zap packaging, it's tough and has some flex. You're gonna want to glue it so it's touching where the ball joint is, for more support. I beveled my edge, so it would make better contact. After I glued that, and ran a bead around the edge, I let it dry over night.
That probably would have been good enough, but I wanted to be sure. So I sanded the piece of plastic I glued, level to the tops of the bases of the ball joints. Then layed a couple smaller pieces that overlapped the flat part and ball joint area.
I'm not gonna promise this to be bomb proof, but it's taken a pretty good amount of abuse, so I don't see how it can hurt to do this before yours breaks.
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betty.k
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