New Plasmatomic motor tutorial!

General discussions, tutorials, help, upgrades, and new info about the Mini-Z / I-Waver line of RCs goes here.
ph2t
bitPimp
Posts: 1979
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2003 6:33 am
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: taco city

Post by ph2t » Tue Nov 29, 2005 9:57 pm

yeah, works fine. does make the mosfets pretty hot. I never geared it higher than 9/23, didn't want to risk the stock mosfets. I blew 'em a week later, lol...

see here:

http://www.xmodsforum.com/modules.php?n ... pic&t=2982


ph2t.
People are mean to you because you're a fucking idiot.

User avatar
HACHI-RYOKU
bitPimp
Posts: 714
Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2003 3:40 am
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia

Post by HACHI-RYOKU » Fri Dec 02, 2005 2:40 pm

Well, I gave my plasma-atomic motor a thorough test run last night. I have to say the results were staggering.

Test car;
3X2 stack 7317 fets and stock AAA batteries.

First I tried it with an 11 tooth pinion. Top speed was really good, but it seemed to take a little while to get up to speed. Better than a stage 2 of course, but not what I was thinking this motor should do. I'm sure if I throw in some lithium batteries this would not be the case. The extra voltage would probably give it the extra push it needed. The fets and motor were getting pretty hot too.

Then I changed the pinion to a 10 tooth. All I could think was HOLY SHIT! It got the extra torque it needed all right. and the top speed seemed higher than with the 11 tooth pinion. The car started sounding a little like a jet at top speed too. The motor was a little warm, but the fets stayed cool. Just how I like it. The batteries get drained faster of-course, but not too fast.

The plasma-atomic motor with 3X2 7317 fets, 10 tooth pinion, and stock AAA is a hot combination.

I was thinking about putting some lithium ions in, but I like the way this car is performing so much, I think I'll stick with the nimh's. I'll save my the lithiums for another car.

I would recomend this motor to anybody. I'll definately be making some more.

Thanks PH2T. You have once again made me a happy pimp. 8-)
Cause I ride around town on my low-rider bicycle.

Tuner1989
bitNinja
Posts: 523
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 4:49 pm
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: Florida

Post by Tuner1989 » Sun Jan 15, 2006 2:50 pm

How would i go about setting up 3 103 caps on a plasmatomic?

Maybe one from + contact to the side of the motor and one from - contact to the side of the motor and then one across both terminals???


The reason i ask is steering and throttle can get quite glitchy at times when im running my z.

User avatar
HACHI-RYOKU
bitPimp
Posts: 714
Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2003 3:40 am
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia

Post by HACHI-RYOKU » Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:07 pm

I will say yes, because that's what I've seen before. Just curious, why? Do you really need that? I've got one of these in a MR-02 and another in a Gen 1 Xmod. The MR-02 seems to have some interference problems once in a blue moon, but it hasn't concerened me. I figure if motor noise was a problem, then it would be happening more.
Cause I ride around town on my low-rider bicycle.

Tuner1989
bitNinja
Posts: 523
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 4:49 pm
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: Florida

Post by Tuner1989 » Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:34 pm

HACHI-RYOKU wrote:I will say yes, because that's what I've seen before. Just curious, why? Do you really need that? I've got one of these in a MR-02 and another in a Gen 1 Xmod. The MR-02 seems to have some interference problems once in a blue moon, but it hasn't concerened me. I figure if motor noise was a problem, then it would be happening more.


Yeah i have a shitload of interference.

Might be a loose pot contributing to some of it though, but its still there.

User avatar
HACHI-RYOKU
bitPimp
Posts: 714
Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2003 3:40 am
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia

Post by HACHI-RYOKU » Sun Jan 15, 2006 5:17 pm

Sounds like a loose cap. Check that solder joint. I'm not happy until I can't pull it off. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it to stay on. You can also wrap the cap's wire around the terminal and then solder it. That helps. It also makes it more secure for those car seeking walls.
Cause I ride around town on my low-rider bicycle.

User avatar
betty.k
bitPimp
Posts: 4089
Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2003 4:52 pm
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: la la land
Contact:

Post by betty.k » Mon Jan 16, 2006 12:33 am

Tuner1989 wrote:How would i go about setting up 3 103 caps on a plasmatomic?

Maybe one from + contact to the side of the motor and one from - contact to the side of the motor and then one across both terminals???


correct. same applies for any rc motor generally speaking. there are other ways but that's the best.

hachi's probably right, check the joins.
if it still screws you around solder a 10v electrolytic cap (minimum 300uf) across the battery terminals observe correct polarity!
i used to be cool
Image

Maxximum Attack
bitDisciple
Posts: 1798
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 7:15 pm
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: Barbados

Post by Maxximum Attack » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:40 pm

I read the tutorial, but you didn't say what to do with the end bellbearing in the atomic can. After you gouge the endbell do you put the bearing back in? or just toss it?
Image

ph2t
bitPimp
Posts: 1979
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2003 6:33 am
4 + 3 =: 0
antispamboolean: No
Location: taco city

Post by ph2t » Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:01 pm

yeah, put it back in. It's sorta common sense, but you're right. I need to make that point clearer. Just being lazy......... :cool:
People are mean to you because you're a fucking idiot.

Post Reply