bitPimps.lixlink.com

yep, believe it or not i never tried an 02 chassis. but i'm glad i did!

started out as an iw02 subaru from the ausmicro shop but i wanted to exploit the mm capabilitiesof the chassis so i made some changes.

iwaver wide wheelset
ausmicro bb's
3 racing h plate, diff and cambered knuckles
pn racing mm motor mount and s04 motor
kyosho oil shock (no spring), ol pcb, servo saver (stock one was glued!)
firelap mclaren body
woah nelly 1.1



the whole centre of gravity thing is a dream in this setup! only thing i need to work out is the right tyres, i'm trying out a set of the gandini powerfoams that ph2t gave me at the moment.

the firelap body is really nice, not autoscale nice but considering what it's about to suffer that's not an issue for me! what is an issue for me is strength and the firelap bod is a 1 peice shell, no separate window. this will make it more durable than the kyosho. i had an iw gt40 bod which was a 1 peice and it was unbreakable! in fact, it broke whatever it ran into!
there is also a nice vent in the roof that will help cool the motor, i opened it up a little to allow more air through.


so for all you kiddies out there wondering whether to get an 01 or an 02 chassis the choice is clear! get an 02! iwaver or kyosho. the mr015 is a nice try, but forget it. just buy the 02 damnit!

and now a word from my sponsors: "use many, buy lots!!"

why are you not buying an 02 yet??

Man, did you buy stock in those whoah nellies or what Looks awsome, ive had my eyes on the 02 for some time now. Looks like you have one hell of a screamer.

STG

i've long since upgraded my iw into an mr. it's all kyosho apart for the aftermarket stuff, the electronics are steady as a rock.

i've got it dialed in for my concrete/tarmac surfaces which aren't too technical so i favour a little understeer.
i like 3deg camber on the front knuckles, the tyres would wear on the outside too much with anything less. it's currently sporting some 2deg alloys sliding on 3racing kingpins, got some gpm 3deg's coming.
the atomic dish rims up front are flawless, spinning true after a lot of abuse. they're wearing 40deg kyosho tyres, i'd like to experiment a little more with front tyre choice. gandini foams ar too grippy, i was getting traction rolls in fast corners. the rubber allows a little give which stops rollovers but creates understeer.
strangely softer tyres grip less than harder ones on my surfaces.
there's a .5deg toe in tierod there to help with the understeer.


3racing ball diff pushed with a pn racing s04, 9t pinion. this isn't a really hot setup, batts and motor just get warm never hot. i could probably push it up to a 12 - 14t pinion if i wanted but i'm happy with the speed. it clocks 34kph on the tamiya checker and it's pretty close to that on the ground with wads of torque to spare.
the gandini foams are the best on the rear. i've been experimenting with the different compounds (hard, med, soft) and they all grip brilliantly. the softer ones wear quicker but no faster than the rubber tyres would.
(i go through front tyres faster than rear foams)
kyosho oil shock just for rear end damping, no spring. the hplate gives me all the spring i need.


nelly 1.0, nuff said.
i initially had poor range and major glitching. so i added a 470uf electro cap across the power terminals on the nelly. problem solved.
and that's my patented "boomerang" (crikey!) shock mount i made from scrap pcb. i thought it was silly having the overhead mount, it's more prone to flex and the shock is still mounted in exactly the same place as before.
i think my design is simpler, stiffer, cheaper, therefore smarter!


since i started using the atomic f.r.p. (fiber reinforced plastic) t plates i haven't looked back. i get the hard mm ones and use the hard spring in them. they're just as, if not more durable than cf hplates.
i got the idea for the motor cover from ph2t. i just used plastic packaging, cut and bent to shape and held in place with double sided tape. it stops metallic stuff collecting on the motor which happens a lot outdoors.


and finally, i've grown quite fond of the mclaren body for it's looks and wheelbase/track. the blue one is a kyosho autoscale bod, looks pretty but breaks easily.
i gotta say, if i was buying it for a display piece i'd be dissapointed. the exhaust pipes are a little crooked and some of the decals are terrible up close. but i'm gonna smack the piss outta this one so i'm happy!
the ronald mcdonald looking one (which i call "big mac" ) is an iwaver bod. it's plenty strong, thicker plastic and one piece body/window design.
i'm driving the whole thing with my futaba 2pl tx which isn't much of a big deal but i just bought a pretty new wheel for it so feel the bling!


all in all this is a killer rig, everything it needs and nothing more. race me with it and you better get used to being lapped (just ask ph2t! )

Screamer no shit.
I'd like to see some vid.
As always, I love the fact that you can tell you drive the shit outta your rides.
The bitPimps references don't hurt either.

betty.k wrote:race me with it and you better get used to being lapped (just ask ph2t! )

oooh-hoo-hoo!
ph2t, thems fightin words man. I think the gauntlet has been thrown down. Is this a battle in the making? lol

this is a recent vid of it in action, only cosmetic changes since then
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=6905

I think the gauntlet has been thrown down. Is this a battle in the making?

i'm the undisputed hard track king

Sweet Ride, your a true rough ridder. I dig it!

Only question i have for you is, i read that the Iwavers turning radius was not that good compared to a miniZ...I am not sure which one I could be mistaken for the 04 Iwaver (older version right?) but how are the 02 Iwavers and are they better than an Xmod EVO? I can get one for a really cheap price I was wondering if it would be worth getting. I kinda want something that will keep close with my MR-02 MM...

Thanks for your time...

iwavers have the same turning radius, they just have weaker steering. when i replaced the servo stuff i noticed the servo saver was glued together too!

if i was choosing between an iw02 and an xmod evo i'd get the iwaver.
but another mr02 would be the best option.

I have an IW-02 and I've had no problems, I have gunmetal knuckles and an Iwaver Plus! motor and on my good laps I can easily keep up with the Kyosho's, sometimes if I'm lucky even pass 'em! We have a local store OCMinimoto that deals mainly with Iwavers and some Kyosho's. We got a little track and the two guys running the shop have races once or twice a month and it's split in half, half Iwavers, half Kyoshos. Never had a problem with mine and when I drove a Kyosho, I felt no difference.

If I had a choice between an XMOD Evo and an Iwaver, it would depend on driving. The XMOD has the advantage of being converted to 4WD and back, a bit tougher, and can be converted to propo with Iwaver electronics for fairly cheap. If you are going to stick strictly to 2WD, go Iwaver as it will cost the same to convert an XMOD Evo. If you are going to be trying out the 4WD, go for it with Iwaver electronics as it will be propo and half the price of an MA-010.

Iwaver for 2WD
XMOD for 2WD/4WD & Iwaver electronics

You make the choice.

That's a super sweet lookin ride, bettyk. A finely-tuned MR02 is a sight to behold, and yours looks built for speed.

How's that Kyosho oil shock? Is it sealed with oil, or just uses grease like the GPM ones?



silla

yep, sealed, oil filled, piston pumping oil shock

Nice ride. Love the work you've done.

Crap, just my style... when I finish mine, I'll have to get different color stuff so they dont look the exact same .

did some more upgrading

got a kyosho skeleton chassis, according to the description it's purple. that's the pinkest purple i've ever seen! makes it look like some sorta weird miniz candy!

i got a set of the atomic chrome finish rims for the front so they match the gandini's a little better, they look great in person.

i'm trying out 30 degree kyosho tyres on the front now, they seem to give me the right amount of grip and slip. coupled with the gpm 3 degree alloy knuckles i can hold a faster corner now.

i also lashed out and bought a full titanium screw set! the weight saving is minimal (1.2 g), i just wanted something fancy!
so then i bought a topcad hex driver set so i didn't have to stuff around with allen keys.




but wait, that's not all!


picked up a futaba 3pk with a 27mhz am module so now i'm in total control!

gah, pink and yellow... it's flower power all over again

how do the tires wear with the 3 degree front knuckles?