How could I mask it?
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- bitHood
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How could I mask it?
My problem is that I can never mask my car properly. The paint always gets under it,and it ruins my whole work. And if I get the masking off,the already painted area under it,doesn't look like it should.
I've already tried to dry it for days,but it didnt work anyway.Maybe I have problems with my paint,but what should I use?
Any advice?
What do you use for masking?
I've already tried to dry it for days,but it didnt work anyway.Maybe I have problems with my paint,but what should I use?
Any advice?
What do you use for masking?
- DarkTari
- bitPimp
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I use Tamiya masking tape also which is excellent. When masking windows, use a toothpick to make sure the tape sticks on all edges & corners. After you cut your masked areas, use the toothpick again, run along the edge of the tape to get a proper seal. Also before masking, clean the areas with alcohol and let dry. This will ensure a good "sticking" surface for the tape. I always primer first, then paint. When removing the tape, cut along the masked area with an Xacto, this will separate the paint from the tape so it will not pull from the painted surface when removing the masking.
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- Site Admin
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You can also use liquid mask for those hard to seal areas. The shit works like a charm.


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- steelwoolghandi
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Yea dudes, I live by this shit for painting any scale rc bodies.
Consistency? hmm... maybe like that fake snot stuff they used to sell in the 80's? lol hard to describe man.
You can paint it on or you can thin it out with water and spray it through your airbrush. Typically, you'd like to get thin, but even amounts of coverage.
Depending on how thin you have spread it, when it dries, it will dry clear or with a slight blue tinge to it, allowing you to easily see the line below that you need to follow while trimming.
Usually for the micros, I just paint it on.
If I were doing a 10th scale lexan body, I'd probably spray it on unless I only needed to do a small area.
Consistency? hmm... maybe like that fake snot stuff they used to sell in the 80's? lol hard to describe man.
You can paint it on or you can thin it out with water and spray it through your airbrush. Typically, you'd like to get thin, but even amounts of coverage.
Depending on how thin you have spread it, when it dries, it will dry clear or with a slight blue tinge to it, allowing you to easily see the line below that you need to follow while trimming.
Usually for the micros, I just paint it on.
If I were doing a 10th scale lexan body, I'd probably spray it on unless I only needed to do a small area.
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
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noxorc came up with the Elmer's method back in the day.
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... ght=elmers
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... ght=elmers
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
- hue35
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It worked great the couple times I've tried it... it seems like a good choice for the tiny little details. But, like anything, you should test it on a scrap body to get the feel for how it works before you use it on a project you have a bunch of time into.JDM-R34 wrote:Does elmer's glue leave any kind of film or anything on the bit bodies, or just peel right off after dry?