Front Pin Removal and Insert

mpbiv · Post by **mpbiv** » Sun May 18, 2003 10:48 pm

Yes the cut is only along that one side.

So far this car has taken a few drops on a tile floor (and other miscellaneous beatings) and the pins have not budged. The fit is just tight enough that they will stay secure under almost all conditions, yet has a little give which makes it easier to pull the pin out.

As for the plastic it seems pretty high quality. Considering the white color and how difficult it seemed to cut, it could even be nylon. Whatever material it is, even with the cut it seems as strong as any other plastic part on the car if not stronger.

The main reason I did this was because I wasn't having much luck just trying to pull the pins out. So far I haven't had any troubles due to this modification, but I'll let you know if I do.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Sun May 18, 2003 11:49 pm

awesome, sounds like a trick I might have to try - I've noticed the MS pins seem to be the hardest to get out.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Mon May 19, 2003 8:19 am

I just heat the pin with the tip of my soldering iron, and they slide out like butter using needle nose. And no damage to the surrounding plastic. Just to check I held the soldering iron on for a long time, and you'd have to hold the soldering on there for a long time before it got too hot. So as long as you just do it for a minute or less you should have no problems.

Also, I discovered that the pins from the Cannonball clones are smooth, and easily removed. So I use those on my Franken-Zap, so I can easily remove the wheels to get hair off the axle.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Mon May 19, 2003 8:33 am

even better idea - I'll try that one too! lol

yea, my Bullet clone's pins came out like nuttin'

sessiz · Post by **sessiz** » Mon May 19, 2003 1:25 pm

I use the method crasydave put up and it works good.

mpbiv · Post by **mpbiv** » Mon May 19, 2003 6:47 pm

I'll have to try that one too

Do you heat them up when you put them back in as well?

Post by **CaboWabo** » Mon May 19, 2003 6:52 pm

puttin em in is no prob - it's taken em out that's the biatch.

mpbiv · Post by **mpbiv** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 12:07 am

I tried the soldiering iron pin removal trick today........didn't work out too well for me. I was trying to take the wheels off to paint them properly but the wheels started to deform from the heat, before the pin would even budge. I am going to have to replace them with full size rears since thats all I have.

SkyLiNEz 4-eva! · Post by **SkyLiNEz 4-eva!** » Mon Aug 11, 2003 4:31 am

i just hold the pliers in my right hand and take my shirt and the hold the knuckle in the left hand in the shirt and pull and twist cause what a lotta people dont include is that the pin is ribbed in the part where the knuckle holds the pin, so when u pull and twist, its like it has threading.

when putting them back in, i slightly tap with a hammer and then increase pressure with each hit until its just enough to where the wheel can spin.

eman · Post by **eman** » Sat Aug 23, 2003 7:56 pm

sorry for bringing this post back from the dead, but i have to.
I tried putting my wheel and knuckle on a stack of hole punched paper, and trying to push the pin through with a hammer and nail. didnt work.

I tried to use two screwdrivers and put them between the knuckle and wheel and push apart. this worked a little, but its starting to distort hte knuckle a little.

What else can i try?

Someone mentioned using plyers and pulling on the pin, do you hold the wheel, or the knuckle?

Post by **CaboWabo** » Sat Aug 23, 2003 11:41 pm

I used pliers...

you know how there's a little space in tip of the handle in pliers when they are closed?
just enough for a pair of needle nose to sneek their way through, but small enough that the rim won't go through.
I grab the tip of the pin with the needle nose, the needle nose are in this "space" in the top part of the handle on another pair of pliers.
I can then pull up on the needle nose pliers to pull the pin out.

Havok · Post by **Havok** » Sun Aug 24, 2003 3:36 am

Cabo.......Dude, you lost me and I know you

..J/K dog... I used 2 pairs of needle nose pliers and a thin rubber band (as in not wide, but narrow )......one pair of pliers on the pin...the other on the knuckle...the rubber band was used in between the pliers and the knuckle....it helped with slipping and prevented marks

eman · Post by **eman** » Sun Aug 24, 2003 9:56 am

CaboWabo wrote:I used pliers...

you know how there's a little space in tip of the handle in pliers when they are closed?
just enough for a pair of needle nose to sneek their way through, but small enough that the rim won't go through.
I grab the tip of the pin with the needle nose, the needle nose are in this "space" in the top part of the handle on another pair of pliers.
I can then pull up on the needle nose pliers to pull the pin out.

I think i know what you mean, but none of my pliers have a small enough gap inbetween the handles, i will look at some other pliers around the house.

And for the pullback mod, you use the pullback pins right?
Do you remove the pullback pins the same way?

Post by **CaboWabo** » Sun Aug 24, 2003 10:50 am

yea, I know I didn't explain that the greatest lol

anyway, yea I used the same method for removing the pullback pins, but I couldn't use them to re-mount, they were just a hair too big so I had to use a stock set of pins.

eman · Post by **eman** » Sun Aug 24, 2003 11:29 am

ok, i guess i will try again. Did you use pliers with ridges on them so the pin could be grabbed easier?
I cant grab the pin with pliers that are flat.