ZZ Monster Truck Articulation Tutorial
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- bitPimp
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- bitThug
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oh that well that was to make it articulate more but i did do it with out removing the wires
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- )3utthead
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- Clint
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- Yagbols
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- bitDisciple
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Yagbols,
Want me to send ya a pair of BALLS?
UPS Worldwide Service. Synchronizing the World of Commerce.
Want me to send ya a pair of BALLS?
UPS Worldwide Service. Synchronizing the World of Commerce.
Last edited by frizzen on Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jack of all trades, master of none; yet often better than master of one.
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End genital mutilation, don't circumcise. Restore your fore'
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End genital mutilation, don't circumcise. Restore your fore'
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- bitGangsta'
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I can do that MT works but you guys have access to other essential parts like gears, axles.
Here in our hood we don't have any access to Zipzaps and all we have out there are clones of bit char-gs. So we stick with Bits
I only have one ZZ chassis in my garage. Yagbols has two, Not sure if he's gonna do at least the artic mod on one of it.
Here in our hood we don't have any access to Zipzaps and all we have out there are clones of bit char-gs. So we stick with Bits
I only have one ZZ chassis in my garage. Yagbols has two, Not sure if he's gonna do at least the artic mod on one of it.
Heeehah!
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- bitHood
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MT artic
if I ever do an artic. MT, I'll go for a scratch built chassis, so I can rebuild the original ZZMT if things go wrong!!!
We can't get them for 10 bucks over here lol
We can't get them for 10 bucks over here lol
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For anyone who still has a virgin ZZMT:
Axle tube - Use a used ballpoint cross pen. "Used" so you dont have to drain to much ink. The barrel ID is 2mm (which fits the axle well) and the OD is approx 3mm (sits perfectly without shaving any part of the body).
Ball bearing (described by diets in the tinyRC forum) can be gotten from a "used" computer fan from the power supply. If you rip the fan apart carefully you will get two ball bearings. ID will be approx 3mm, just perfect to get the barrel in. You have to sand the outside of the barell a little to actually get it in for snug fit.
diets thread http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=20849
For the aluminum block I used plastic from a note book, easier to shape. Not as thick as the ball bearing but enough so you can crazy glue the ball bearing to the plastic. I then glue the block to the rear as shown in diets model. He used screws.
Plan and measure, then measure again before any cutting, and you should a good looking articulation.
Thanks for the tutorial. I will try to post pics after I clean it up and solder the wires back on.
Axle tube - Use a used ballpoint cross pen. "Used" so you dont have to drain to much ink. The barrel ID is 2mm (which fits the axle well) and the OD is approx 3mm (sits perfectly without shaving any part of the body).
Ball bearing (described by diets in the tinyRC forum) can be gotten from a "used" computer fan from the power supply. If you rip the fan apart carefully you will get two ball bearings. ID will be approx 3mm, just perfect to get the barrel in. You have to sand the outside of the barell a little to actually get it in for snug fit.
diets thread http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=20849
For the aluminum block I used plastic from a note book, easier to shape. Not as thick as the ball bearing but enough so you can crazy glue the ball bearing to the plastic. I then glue the block to the rear as shown in diets model. He used screws.
Plan and measure, then measure again before any cutting, and you should a good looking articulation.
Thanks for the tutorial. I will try to post pics after I clean it up and solder the wires back on.