Full propo ZZ MT (iWaver pcb swap)...

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:09 am

Namuna, try and go with 2.2K if you can. This is closer to the middle value of the potentiometer that you are replaceing with the fixed resistor.

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index. ... 20resistor

The potentiometer is 5K. The "halfway" mark is approx 2.5K. So you want something close to that. 2.2K is closest but if Betty had just as much luck using 3.3K then that should be fine to.

Put it this way. The Pot tells the iwaver PCB to turn on the steering motor or not (depending on the command from the tx/rx). When the pot is seen to be a half way (and there's no turning command), then this means it's at centre and shouldn't turn the steering motor either way.

If (the fixed resistor) was a little off (not near 2.5K) then it could possible cause the steering motor to stay on all the time in only one direction ( until a commend came in from the steering portion of the tx/rx).

ph2t.

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:40 am

I bought the 500 Resistor assortment from the Shack, so I've got lots of options.

ph2t, I think just about any resistor (as long as it's somewhere reasonably between 0k and 5k) would work because the trimpot could be adjusted to compensate until neutral was found...At least I think that's what betty was telling me.

My wife is going to stab me in the left testicle (she'd want to leave the right one alone for when we want to have another kid) but after seeing LBRC's thread (over at ripper) about Solder Stations I simply MUST get one of those for this project (and all future projects once I'm successful with this one).

Damn, this project is taking over my life!

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 9:00 am

ph2t, I think just about any resistor (as long as it's somewhere reasonably between 0k and 5k) would work because the trimpot could be adjusted to compensate until neutral was found

Not nessasarily mate. The trimpot won't adjust for full slew. Then you have the issue of "return to centre" power to the motor. Both of these come into play when choosing that "centre point" value of the resistor.

Welcome to the world for soldering fumes!

LBRC · Post by **LBRC** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 1:48 am

Both a propo ZZMT and good soldering station are worth it. I think I remember seeing photo’s of an articulated fully proportional truck on one of the non-English sites built by Microsash or someone over on his side of the Atlantic.

evoraptor · Post by **evoraptor** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:25 am

Clint built one too.

http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... propo+zzmt

It's close enough but costs a bit more I think.

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:35 pm

I'm going to keep a running diary here for what I've got going on with this project. More or less to keep my ideas in 1 spot, but if it helps anybody else great.

Upon reading LBRC's great info about Solder Stations. I ordered 1. It'll be great for this project and future projects (also picked up an extra tip, some solder and flux)

Got TOTALLY side-tracked with getting an Xmods Hummer Evo and LOADED up on the upgrades! I've taken this thing apart and put back together enough to pretty much know the thing inside and out now. Also looking to score an entire set of GPM Alloys (in BLACK baby!) to really crank up the sexiness!

I'm torn on whether to just go ahead with the iWaver board Project as is, using betty's "pot cheat" or I could go to the next level using LBRC's recommended Interflite Mega Micro (PN: MMIC43 Servo). Maybe I'll go in stages. The first being the pot cheat.

Clint had a great idea with using the tube from old antennas as a drive shaft. Now I'm looking to expand on that idea with getting some 1/8" diameter metal tubing. Cut them to proper size and then get some spare Xmods 6mm bearings and glue them to either end. Once the MT chassis is segregated from the articulation mod, then the front/back can be attached to either end of the ball bearings. This (I believe) should; remove any drive train slop and also maintain good gear mesh for the drive gears/

arfin · Post by **arfin** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 12:43 am

Did you take that picture of the hummer xmod? If so, then DAMN that is really an amazing photograph, sorry for getting off topic, but wow. Also, i think if you will be taking the MT outdoors, more then you will be driving it indoors then i'd go for Betty.k's pot cheat.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:10 am

arfin wrote:Did you take that picture of the hummer xmod? If so, then DAMN that is really an amazing photograph, sorry for getting off topic, but wow. Also, i think if you will be taking the MT outdoors, more then you will be driving it indoors then i'd go for Betty.k's pot cheat.

I have to assume he did, all of his shots look like freakin' catalog shots, he's that good.

Since we're off topic anyways now... hey Namuna, you still got the stuff to do that 360 viewer thing?

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 9:08 am

Thanks for compliment on the pic. I was debating with putting a watermark on there so folks definitely know it's my shot...But I couldn't bring myself to ruin the pic by doing so!

I used my ultra-wide angle on that badboy , with a little PS post-process and I'm pretty happy with the result. I have to revisit the PS Tut videos and I'll be able to sexify it even more.

For the 360° Quicktime VR, yes I've still got the turntable (Kaidan Pixi)

The software for building QVR files is old as hell, I wonder if there's anything new on the scene (doubt it though, not much hype with the QVR stuff anymore).

Here's an example for folks that haven't seen what QVR is:
Namuna's QVR Page

Namuna · Post by **Namuna** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:19 pm

Received the tubing today.

The outer diameter is too big (1/8") to fit in the ball bearing and the inner diameter (supposed to be .0103") is too small for the drive axle (between .009" to .01").

Put the axle into my Dremel and filed the diameter down...Now it fits in there reeeeeal smooth like. Next is to pull out the regular Drill (don't have a big enough collet for my dremel to accomodate the 1/8" tubing) and stick the tubing in there and shave the outter diameter down to fit in the bearing.

Other stuff:
SWG posted a nice tut about applying chrome (HERE) So now I want to get my hands on this AND go rummaging to find where my old airbrush set with air compressor went to. I want to chrome out that ugly ass gunmetal grey on the Hummer body skirt.

Picked up an Xmods Custom Battery Charger from the shack over the long weekend ($25 minus the $10 coupon). This thing is SWEET! It's got 4 INDEPENDENT charge bays, so you can charge 1, 2, 3 or 4 cells at once, it's a pseudo-smart charger (charges at 500mA and will cutoff to trickle charge when full status is detected) too and best of all it's compact as hell. The power plug folds-in and the charge prongs are all spring contracted. This thing stays in my bag at all times now with a few extra AAAs. I'm pretty impressed and highly recommend it.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:57 am

I like my Xmods charger. We even use it to charge our camera batteries. There are a couple things I'll point out... I don't believe you can do individual cells, I believe its either 2 or 4. Be careful with those spring loaded prongs, the spring came detached from one of mine, almost immediately after I got it. I tried to take it apart to reattach it, but its impossible to take apart without breaking the case, so I got a rubber band superglued in place. Mine also has a tendency to false peak after 20-30 minutes, and I have to unplug it and start a gain to get a full charge.