Page 1 of 1

Window Fix

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 4:10 pm
by Maxximum Attack
Like the title says, it's pretty deep.
I want to know how I can remove it and still keep my windscreen clear.
It came from a boo boo with the dremel.

Maxx

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 4:16 pm
by Tuner1989
Pics?

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 4:38 pm
by Maxximum Attack
Nah, just imagine a deep gash in the clear plastic of the windscreen.
It's deeper than the bodylines.
Hope that helps, I don't have a camera

Maxx

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:39 pm
by arfin
Better get a cam soon or you can't enter the contest! I'd say you follow frizzen's advice and cut out the windshield and replace it with ZZ packaging type plastic.

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:57 pm
by frizzen
*repeating post made in the "Topless Contest" thread for benefit of future generations using SEARCH function*

Window fucked? Fuck the window!
It's dead to you now! Window must leave!

Ugly type windows that are dead to you for some reason.
Image

Remove windows. (dremel, thread, file, axe, sawzall, gnawing rodent...)

Get Clear styrene (product packaging), cut to shape (MUST have a slightly oversize tab to go under hood area).

After body painted, install windows. Use CLEAR drying glue that *WILL NOT* haze or fog plastic. Make a sealing bead along perimiter of window, and cover the hood tab I had you leave. I prefer Elmer's White Glue. (Plus it's non-toxic, and wins taste-tests among elementary school kids!)

Take a toothpick or something, clean off the excess glue (um, I kinda missed some when I took the after pic)

New pretty type windows.
Image

No ugly purple tint, no canyon-like scratches, just smooth clear glass.

(Pics were from Desperado and SingleCab, not the same project. For reference only.)

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 8:33 pm
by Maxximum Attack
Bueno!
Gratsi!

Thank you, I didn't need all the visuals but this is GREAT for the future. I'll change the thread title to help the search engine.

Question: What do you mean by sealing bead?
You mean just a thin line of glue at the tops then goop the bottom under the hood?

Can we also get this stickied?

Maxx

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 9:26 pm
by frizzen
Sealing bead: Run a tiny bead of glue around the edges of the window (A-pillars, roofline, hood to windshield line) so that it will not show any gaps around edges, and will also transfer stress evenly so it'll better resist getting knocked out.

Then cover the tab under the hood with as much of whatever kind of glue you want. Elmer is clear, but not that strong of a bond. If you choose CA or ModelGlue turn model upside down and have sufficent airflow AWAY from the clear pieces that it won't matter if it outgasses much.

:shock: Oh no, it's my first Sticky tutorial. Guess I better get some extra pics of the other stages.

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:23 am
by stampede_dude
You can rub some oil in the gash and it'll go clear. But the gash will still be there.

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:27 am
by crazydave
Depending how deep the scratch is, I usually sand it out, and clear coat will make the sanding scratches disappear. 400grit not so much, but 600-800 grit, perfect. You don't want to go too fine, because you want the paint to stick.

Its an option before you cut the window out.

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 5:34 pm
by betty.k
you could fill the scratch with superglue, dries clear. then sand it back and clearcoat as dave suggested :-o

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:17 pm
by steelwoolghandi
well you might not have access to this but what I use is called Nova scratch remover. I take sandpaper and sand the scratch down smooth then use Nova3 and take the big sanding scratchs down then use Nova 2 for the smaller scratchs then finish off with Nova 1.

Nova can be found on eBay it was made to take the scratches out of Pinball machine tops and off of the video game screens it works great and after sanding the windows on a few of my cars it broght them back to nice and clear.

I even got a scratch on my Ipod and it broght the screen back to brand new. I think its worth the money and if you keep it closed up it will last a long time I have had mine for over 2 years. :-o

Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:03 am
by crazydave
Thanks for the tip SWG. I bet that stuff would be good for my kid's Gameboy too. :-o

Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:29 am
by Maxximum Attack
I'm finally geting up pictures. But I cut the window out and replaced it. Here's how bad it was, I don't think sanding would have helped :lol:

Image

AFTER

Image

Thank you for this little tutorial Frizzen, it kept me going on my entry :-)

Maxx

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:24 am
by frizzen
Glad to hear it worked for you pimp! :-o

Damn that looks better with the de-tinted windows, and no more thick-ass black 'gasket' around the edges! :D

Really digging the look. Did you manage that fade with a rattlebomb, or did you pull out an airbrush?

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:21 am
by Maxximum Attack
I did the fade with a rattle can :-o.
Maybe one day I'll post a tut on how to do it :???: