Problematic gas pump outboard Charger on the wack. Help Me?

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seeberg
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Problematic gas pump outboard Charger on the wack. Help Me?

Post by seeberg »

I hope this is where I should post this kind of thread...

I've got the outboard (AAA battery x3)charger of the Perfection Phantom Racer, the one that looks like a gas pump, but it doesn't seem to work. The power comes on, but the thing doesn't charge any car I put on it, including the car that came with it. The controller still sends a signal to the car, the car lights up its blue LED and goes like it should, and the car charges on any other onboard charger. I tried bending the connection terminals so they would make contact with the plates on the car, and one kind of broke off, but I fixed it. Since the chassis is transparent, you can tell if any contact of metal is happening. But the car still doesn't charge. I had to adjust the batteries so they would make the light stay on, but still nothing. Note that a manual power switch is on the top of the charger. Eventually, two internal wires came apart, one that connets to a metal (-) contact, and one to a non-functioning LED. I know how to solder what to what, but I need help fixing it, actually getting the thing to charge like it should. I'm willing to send the thing out via mail to anyone that can fix it, but can it be fixed?

Here's a pic of the whole kit, but mine is a ferrari 512bb with 27c frequency, purchased from ToyEast for 10$. It was cheap, but I really wanna fix that charger.
http://www.microsizer.it/html/phantomzent.shtml
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betty.k
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Post by betty.k »

i had a local guy send his dodgy perfection and charger, same deal as you. the car was fine, but the charger was a fricken enigma! :puter: i did what i could, but i eventually gave up and passed it on to ph2t. my guess is the pcb is fucked up in some way, wrong component, bad design, i dunno. it seems to be a common complaint. if you really gotta use that stand, i'd yank out (not literally) the pcb and just wire the battery terminals to the charging plate. and if you grab a resistor or 2 off the pcb you can wire up the led's and keep the switch. i only just thought that up on the spot, never tried, but should work. i'm gonna get that one back from ph2t and try it out. lemme know how you get on.


oh, and welcome to tha hood! :cool:
i used to be cool
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Post by crazydave »

I'll tell you what, all that PCB is doing timing the charge. I prefer to charge longer anyways, so I just wire the batteries straight to the charging terminals.

Remember, if you do this don't leave you're car unattended, excessive charging may cause a fire. Don't forget the ground goes to the drive side of the car, and also I think 4.5v is a bit much for single cells , I'd pull out one of the batteries, and wire it with 2 cells.

Also I use a volt meter to watch for voltage drop while charging. After you do this for a while you get a knack for when to pull it off.

That just my way of going about things, but it's worked out extremely well over the last year or so.
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Post by hogjowlz »

uh welcome to the hood dude. we like to see muhfuckas rollin up with technical questions instead of "show me pictures of skylines"
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Post by Finks »

Do you have any coolz skylinz pics Hog? I LUVS them homie! :-(
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seeberg
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yea yea yea, tanks fo replyin'-glizzad to bizze at BitPimps!

Post by seeberg »

'Sup to all the G's, moneyz, hustlaz, playaz, haytaz, n' regulataz. REGULATE! Coz I be rollin up in dis bitch. Skeet skeet skeet like a mudafucka. What? What? What? Okay! Yeyah!

Hail to the king, baby...

Had to get that off my chest. Not too often I can use my dirty mouth. Ya know, I wonder if that direct terminal wiring might work. I can time it for say, 45 seconds and see what happens, but I wanna make a 3.0v battery adaptor by making a shape of 2 AA batteries and lead two metal points on the shape to a DC adaptor and see what happens, maybe give a full clean charge to a 200mAh battery without premature drain from shitty batteries. If that works, kickass. I once had an old Frogger mini arcade machine running on 6 C batteries adapted for DC, and it was rokken like Dokken. Wait, they suck ass. Eagles of Death Metal. Now that is rockin'. Anyway, yeah. I'll try that on 45sec. when I get a soldering pencil from Radioshack. I've got to anyway 'cause my 49MHz charger/controller for another car had two wires that need resoldered. That's small fries compared to this shit job.
I also wonder about that whole PCB thing, because it seems to work fine charging on all my other shit, so I figure it's fine.

Keep up da replies. They help alot.
P.S.- Y'all bitches betta recognize :cool:
jaane ^_^
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Post by sg219 »

Wow!! A literate post with some dirty, dirty in it!! Very impressive this time of year. :smile:

Welcome to the hood and feel free to loiter. :cool:




........and where the hell are my Skyline pics? I know they were here somewhere. Maybe I put them in the "Who the F**K still gets off on these cars?...File..." They go faster with racing stripes, incase no one knew that!! :shock:
seeberg
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coo

Post by seeberg »

Will do, but I like to pee on walls and shit. Mark my territory with my scent. Just kidding. Ladies don't appreciate that, so I don't. But I do stick it to the man. And make 'im say uhhh (like constipation). Na na na na. Wait a sec- that doesn't sound right. Okay, I show the man what time it is, and lay it down to all the suckas. Recognize my "caucasiafroness".

Anyhow, I'll be trying out that whole 45sec direct charge. Personally, I'd like to adapt the whole charger for 4.5v DC operation. What milliamps and other specs does anyone here think would be closest to the output of three AAA batteries in that charger?

Also, What is a thunder charger and where can I get one for really cheap?
And will I shit my pants from the G-Forces of going faster with a skyline with racing stripes, brownie and shit smelly racing stripes?

Late...

Ha, ha... brownie stripes
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Post by crazydave »

I also wonder about that whole PCB thing, because it seems to work fine charging on all my other shit, so I figure it's fine.
Yeah, if it's just this one car, and all your others work fine, then it probably aint the PCB, and the direct wiring thing aint gonna help.

Check and make sure the terminal in the car is pushed all the way to the back. Sometimes the get pushed a little forwards, and the charger terminal slip behind it.
Anyhow, I'll be trying out that whole 45sec direct charge. Personally, I'd like to adapt the whole charger for 4.5v DC operation. What milliamps and other specs does anyone here think would be closest to the output of three AAA batteries in that charger?
You want something more or less around 800mA. Remember, the current from the wall varies, so with manufacturing variences, the current is not gonna be exactly the rated #. If you use less mA you'll have to charge longer, if you use more, you'll have shorter charging times. For single cells you want 3v. If you get an adapter with switchable voltages, you can use it for your multi cell cars later on.

Also, What is a thunder charger and where can I get one for really cheap?
Thunder Chargers were $5 at BigLots. Most BigLots have sold out of them, but there still a few out there.
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Post by seeberg »

Rock. There's a BigLots in Salem so I'll check it out. Crossin' my fingaz. Fingers. Uhhh, my whiteness shines though my 'fro, ha ha ha.

If I don't have a 3v adapter here in my posession I can get one from a Goodwill or something like that. Keep it cheap, I always say.

~Gonna line this pool with gargoyles and blood, cuz I'm mothafucking Danzig~
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