Battery overload issue (friggin sucks)

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seeberg
bitThug
Posts: 90
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:27 am
Location: Oregon

Battery overload issue (friggin sucks)

Post by seeberg »

Check it out: I got a 35, 40, and 45 mhz from RCmart.com and they ran fine when charging from their respective charger/controllers. Each was running a badged LXX 120mah battery and all three got overloaded when charging from a standalone "AAA Gas Station" Perfection charger I modded to take a 3V DC 800ma regulated adaptor (I made sure that the positive and negative leads were correct in this case, orginally the unit took 3 AAA batteries/4.5v and blew out anything hooked up to it, even 200mah batteries- a bad move on Perfection's part). The other cars in my collection use the Perfection 200mah battery and don't suffer from this problem and I ordered 3 more to replace the burned out lower quality ones. I have yet to put the new ones in, and wonder if the problem might be a wiring issue inside the cars themselves?

If not, I'm taking all 3 to da limit: Suspension upgrades, battery upgrade, heatsink upgrade, Pullback wheels/tires package add-on, 9.86:1 gears.
Pretty nice for someone new to the game, most people I know that have bits where I live don't even bother hopping up their rides.

Any advice here will get you due props/thanks,
Abe

(P.S.- my thread about looking for rare cars/bodies/crap didn't need locked up and then needlessly comlained about/lectured- I never asked if anyone on the forums sold them, I only wanted to know what online hobby shops did. I know the rules and asking what online shop might have something doesn't seem worthy of getting the bad end of a stick. Other forums, like HeadFi, don't show you the door when you ask a simple quetsion. Just a rant...)
...Sorry, the whitty banter that goes here listened to Richard Simmons' Sweatin' to Books on Tape until it died. Its biting sarcasm will be missed.

I quit. Please remove this account; it's wasting server bandwidth and space. Thanks!
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crazydave
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Post by crazydave »

Well, the rating you're using should be ideal, but the actual output of alot of those wallwarts varies greatly. So I wouldn't trust those numbers. What I would do is monitor the batteries voltage with my volt meter while I'm charging it. You will see the the voltage bobble up and down a bit, but when the battery has peaked, the voltage will drop drastically. By the this point the battery should be nice and warm, but not too hot to touch. Or at the very least pull the battery when it starts to warm.

I've never tried any of those batteries, I prefer just to use stock batteries, and occasionally one wont take a charge, and pops, but usually they hold up to 4.5v 3 cell charges, from say like a Motorworks charge base, no problem.
...crazy man, crazy...dig it.
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seeberg
bitThug
Posts: 90
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:27 am
Location: Oregon

Post by seeberg »

hmmm...
I'll try rigging up a multitester to my charger unit and see what happens. I try and charge for no more than one minute, but it would be nice if I could get a timer installed into the charger so every time you put a car onto the base, a timer would count down to zero from say, 1:00 or :45. It would be pretty nice for racing competitions, to create tension when waiting for the pit charge to finish. Hopefully those higher end batteries work better than the stock batch, maybe they were from a bad assembly?


Abe
...Sorry, the whitty banter that goes here listened to Richard Simmons' Sweatin' to Books on Tape until it died. Its biting sarcasm will be missed.

I quit. Please remove this account; it's wasting server bandwidth and space. Thanks!
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