This Dual Cell Ain't Flossin' Nothin', So I Dropped It Here

[45tr0]

You could always paint the batts green and wrap them in some clear wrap. Then it woud look like you just got done picking up a big old bag of our favorite herb.

Man, thats some gooooood shit!

Hey MG, I hear you man, I've just produced my first dual cell this week, and shoe-horned it into that truck of mine.

This shit is grade-A addictive!

Great work MG, It's kinda nice to see someone else testing their limits and getting the courage to try some of this stuff. Its cool to know you ain't the only one wading into the deep end...

btw, slightly on/off topic: I've Modded the controller as-per-tutes (ie, batterybox wires to charging plate wires), but i'm still having with really short (like, 30sec) runtimes. any pointers guys? The Batteries are making some strange ticking noise while charging, then run out superfast - especially when steering...

I'm thinking I need to make a 3V wall charger - more work to do this week!

[crazydave]

The Batteries are making some strange ticking noise while charging, then run out superfast - especially when steering...

That strange ticking noise is more than likely gas escaping. It would be my guess the battery has been overheated, more than likely when you soldered it.

This has been stated in the past, but I'll go ahead an throw it out there just in case. Batteries need to be soldered quick, so you need a hot iron, to make it as quick as possible. At least 60 watts. I'm using a 40 watt iron, but I like to test my luck. Higher wattage irons melt faster, so the heat has less time to spread.

[45tr0]

That strange ticking noise is more than likely gas escaping. It would be my guess the battery has been overheated, more than likely when you soldered it.

This has been stated in the past, but I'll go ahead an throw it out there just in case. Batteries need to be soldered quick, so you need a hot iron, to make it as quick as possible. At least 60 watts. I'm using a 40 watt iron, but I like to test my luck. Higher wattage irons melt faster, so the heat has less time to spread.

I figured that was most likely the case with the batteries. good to know my suspicions were right though.

And as for the iron thing, it's been added to my "I should have thought of that" list. I guess my 20watt'er will be going into early retirement.

[hue35]

At least 60 watts. I'm using a 40 watt iron, but I like to test my luck.

Soldering, pimp style ©SuperFly

[arfin]

Nice to see you went for it MG! what's next, internal?

[evoraptor]

get a cold heat, its very useful for batteries because they heat up so quick, just dont holdit there, something bad will happen...

[MotorGong]

I love you guys man..... [group hug]


For real, thanks for all the comments and recommendations!

I'm sitting here trying to figure out a way to start the OG Pimps quibbling again... A guy like me can learn tons sitting back and listening to that.

I will order those batts from KAN.
I can't wait to have external and an internal dual-celled bits.

evoraptor, that sounds like a good idea. I think DT mentioned that same cold-heat solderer here at BP, and I'm going to look for the thread for some info.

45tr0, I loved the pic! It was especially funny because it was on page two of this topic, so I 'click' and there ya are! lol It's neat to know where you're at in the game, too.

And thanks Finks, I had 2 other Pimps tell me pretty much the same thing via PM that day. I appreciate it!

And I appreciate all of the responses! It gives me lots of encouragement to 'have at it'!!

[betty.k]

i'd personally stay away from those cold heat irons. get yourself a cheap plug in type with a fine tip.

or get a butane iron like a portasol.

even better, get both

[jhick40]

if one were to put the kan 3 cell flat into a zzmt, would it still charge the same, just longer? or would i need a separate charger?