equal steering on both sides
- hue35
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equal steering on both sides
One thing that's still tough for me to troubleshoot is when the car turns way sharper one way than the other. It seems that they usually turn sharper to the right, and I assume that has something to do with the gears being on the left. I've tried toe-in and toe-out, as well as castor/camber, but I can't seem to get consistent results from the adjustments.
The only thing I've figured out so far is that if you use springs you can balance the steering fairly well... if you put a slightly longer spring on one side, it will steer sharper on that side. For example, my latest chassis turned sharper to the right, so I added a spacer under the spring on the left side. Now the left side turns as sharp as the right side.
Anyone else doing anything to balance the steering radius from side to side?
The only thing I've figured out so far is that if you use springs you can balance the steering fairly well... if you put a slightly longer spring on one side, it will steer sharper on that side. For example, my latest chassis turned sharper to the right, so I added a spacer under the spring on the left side. Now the left side turns as sharp as the right side.
Anyone else doing anything to balance the steering radius from side to side?
- micromatch
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yea hue, I still get problems with that too.
the first time I fixed it was with the dual celled s-2000 c-dub stunt car in alot of my movies.
I first added the rem magnet, it helped alot, but didn't fix it all the way.
the rem really helped the steering as a dual celled car, the steering was strong enough to force the wheels where I wanted em.
then I added the springs, then it drove straight as arrow.
I still turn slightly better to 1 side (I believe it is the right), but it's not a huge difference from the other like it was before.
I've also noticed, especially on clones, sometimes the pins on the front wheels are pushed in slightly differently (did that make sense?) what I mean is there was more play on one wheel than the other, it was because the pins were pushed in to different lengths. I think it might happen sometimes because most clone pins don't have the ridges to help it grab onto the plastic - alot of just straight shaft pins that easily push in or pull out (great to use for wheel mods). that was the scenerio on 3 out of the 4 clones I have/had.
the first time I fixed it was with the dual celled s-2000 c-dub stunt car in alot of my movies.
I first added the rem magnet, it helped alot, but didn't fix it all the way.
the rem really helped the steering as a dual celled car, the steering was strong enough to force the wheels where I wanted em.
then I added the springs, then it drove straight as arrow.
I still turn slightly better to 1 side (I believe it is the right), but it's not a huge difference from the other like it was before.
I've also noticed, especially on clones, sometimes the pins on the front wheels are pushed in slightly differently (did that make sense?) what I mean is there was more play on one wheel than the other, it was because the pins were pushed in to different lengths. I think it might happen sometimes because most clone pins don't have the ridges to help it grab onto the plastic - alot of just straight shaft pins that easily push in or pull out (great to use for wheel mods). that was the scenerio on 3 out of the 4 clones I have/had.
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- hue35
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I had a feeling you would say that, hog.
I don't doubt that would help, but that's a tough mod for me to do unless I have to. I don't like not being able to quickly remove the axle to remove lint and dog hair and shit. Maybe that vertical play in the rear axle is the reason for the uneven turning radius, but I'd love to figure out a better way to fix it than sealing it up.

I don't doubt that would help, but that's a tough mod for me to do unless I have to. I don't like not being able to quickly remove the axle to remove lint and dog hair and shit. Maybe that vertical play in the rear axle is the reason for the uneven turning radius, but I'd love to figure out a better way to fix it than sealing it up.
- ezenterprises
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shifting the magnet one way or the other is suppose to cure the problem ( just like micromatch said). At least according to the rip off micro rc cd .
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- crazydave
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There's so many varibles, it's kinda hard to fix, but here's what I've come up with.
First I make sure both back wheels don't spin on the axle. The one on the passenger (non-drive) side has a tendency to come loose.
Then I make sure the steering has even travel in both directions. Things that I've found that may limit travel are a steering magnet that's shifted to one side, a poorly wound steering coil that is extra wide, or a deformed steering knuckle, or chassis. I push, cut, or trim whatever I have to to allow the wheels to turn evenly.
Those are the 2 things that I think have the most effect, and after I've eliminated those, and it still didn't steer evenly, I was baffled, but then I started getting into this...
Whatever end is lowest, will steer, so I started checking:
The length/height of the steering knuckles. I bought a MS Pro and Sport right around the same time, and they both had the same problem, turned out one steering knuckle was slightly long than the other in both cars.
Then there's chassis tweak. I put the car on a level surface, and look at it from the front. On the lower end the steering knuckle will stick out the top slightly more. I twist at the chassis until I get it even, but the problem is it slowly shifts back, and I have to keep twisting the chassis.
Then there's front end dive. When you go into a corner the leading corner of the car dives slightly, and lifts opposite rear wheel to give a slight differential effect. I tweak at the sway bar until I get even dive in both directions.
With all that out of the way, I still have cars that turn uneven, and it frustrates me.
First I make sure both back wheels don't spin on the axle. The one on the passenger (non-drive) side has a tendency to come loose.
Then I make sure the steering has even travel in both directions. Things that I've found that may limit travel are a steering magnet that's shifted to one side, a poorly wound steering coil that is extra wide, or a deformed steering knuckle, or chassis. I push, cut, or trim whatever I have to to allow the wheels to turn evenly.
Those are the 2 things that I think have the most effect, and after I've eliminated those, and it still didn't steer evenly, I was baffled, but then I started getting into this...
Whatever end is lowest, will steer, so I started checking:
The length/height of the steering knuckles. I bought a MS Pro and Sport right around the same time, and they both had the same problem, turned out one steering knuckle was slightly long than the other in both cars.
Then there's chassis tweak. I put the car on a level surface, and look at it from the front. On the lower end the steering knuckle will stick out the top slightly more. I twist at the chassis until I get it even, but the problem is it slowly shifts back, and I have to keep twisting the chassis.
Then there's front end dive. When you go into a corner the leading corner of the car dives slightly, and lifts opposite rear wheel to give a slight differential effect. I tweak at the sway bar until I get even dive in both directions.
With all that out of the way, I still have cars that turn uneven, and it frustrates me.

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Dave, your analysis of the front end is spot on. I've noticed this as well with the "inside corner" wheel dropping too far and giving uneven turning radiui (plural?). I personally get rid of the sway bar and just use suspension springs and usually for the RIGHT wheel the spring is a little stiffer than the LEFT. My reason for this is that when turning RIGHT the amount of force on the RIGHT steering wheel is greater than when turning LEFT. This is due to the fact the the drive gearing is on the left as everyone knows. So turning LEFT doesn't have the same amount of force on the LEFT steering wheel as the RIGHT does.
Mind you my usual check list is this:
*Always dissasemble the front end and check eveything.
*Re-seat and glue the magnet in place
*Re-seal and glue the steering coils in place (issue usually limited to clones)
*Ensure the steering spring is straight and unmolested.
*Check the freespining time of the front wheels, a wheel that slows down quicker usually will cause a tighter turning radius when it's the inside wheel.
*Always check for metal particles/flakes around the steering area, this kills the effective field strength of the magnet.
*Remove the sway bar and left the car sit on an even surface, take note of which side sits lower(if any) and sand back the shaft of the steering knuckle on the opposite to suit and even out.
ph2t.
Mind you my usual check list is this:
*Always dissasemble the front end and check eveything.
*Re-seat and glue the magnet in place
*Re-seal and glue the steering coils in place (issue usually limited to clones)
*Ensure the steering spring is straight and unmolested.
*Check the freespining time of the front wheels, a wheel that slows down quicker usually will cause a tighter turning radius when it's the inside wheel.
*Always check for metal particles/flakes around the steering area, this kills the effective field strength of the magnet.
*Remove the sway bar and left the car sit on an even surface, take note of which side sits lower(if any) and sand back the shaft of the steering knuckle on the opposite to suit and even out.
ph2t.
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- hue35
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- micromatch
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hey i said that first! lol jk jkhue35 wrote:Thanks dave and ph2t, that's what I was looking for... there are so many variables, I knew there'd be some things I missed.
ez, shifting the magnet seems like a bandaid solution, but it would be the quickest fix... I'm gonna give that a try as well.

is this thing on?