How long do your dual-mods last?
- kwikbb
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How long do your dual-mods last?
per charge I mean?
Finally after so long i did the mod and it's so insanely fun! For charging purposes I rig-up a spare charger QFM style to push 3V into this bad boy. Now i don't feel like frying the batteries... yet, so i only charge for about 3 min. and that will give me about 3-4 min. of play-time.
The batts are new 160mah from Namuna, so they need to be broken in too, so I figure they could handle a bit of juice... just not sure how much?
Finally after so long i did the mod and it's so insanely fun! For charging purposes I rig-up a spare charger QFM style to push 3V into this bad boy. Now i don't feel like frying the batteries... yet, so i only charge for about 3 min. and that will give me about 3-4 min. of play-time.
The batts are new 160mah from Namuna, so they need to be broken in too, so I figure they could handle a bit of juice... just not sure how much?
Last edited by kwikbb on Sat May 24, 2003 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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those are pretty!
anyways, my clone 150's (broken in) last about 7-10 minutes (10's prolly pushing it). I charge for about 2 minutes.
the batts I got from Namuna, I'm like you, I'm affraid to fry them so I haven't given them more than 2 minutes either, those last about 3-5 minutes, and those last minutes are slooow. If I leave the car, come back, it has juice to push it like it's fully charged, but only for a split second and then the batteries are dead again.
As it stands right now, I prefer my clone batteries, I'm sure it's not the batteries that make it better, I'm thinking it's just the fact that they're broken in and taking a full charge. The batteries from Namuna can handle more charge, but I'm affraid to overload them so they're never really getting a full charge. I also tested out my controller, in actuality, I'm only pushing out 2.4 almost 2.5 volts, not 3 as I had expected. I think that's going to increase my charge times, but that's it, maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong on that?

anyways, my clone 150's (broken in) last about 7-10 minutes (10's prolly pushing it). I charge for about 2 minutes.
the batts I got from Namuna, I'm like you, I'm affraid to fry them so I haven't given them more than 2 minutes either, those last about 3-5 minutes, and those last minutes are slooow. If I leave the car, come back, it has juice to push it like it's fully charged, but only for a split second and then the batteries are dead again.
As it stands right now, I prefer my clone batteries, I'm sure it's not the batteries that make it better, I'm thinking it's just the fact that they're broken in and taking a full charge. The batteries from Namuna can handle more charge, but I'm affraid to overload them so they're never really getting a full charge. I also tested out my controller, in actuality, I'm only pushing out 2.4 almost 2.5 volts, not 3 as I had expected. I think that's going to increase my charge times, but that's it, maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong on that?
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
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You bunch of WUSSES!
Charge those damned batts up! You make it sound like I sold you guys virgin pussy, instead of cheap-ass batteries!
If you bypassed the timer, then with the 2xAA alkalines you're spittin out 35mA a minute...If you want to charge to capacity you gotta leave that shit on there for a little over 5 minutes.
But the REAL deal is with a peak charger or AC Adapter rigged charger...A longer charge, at lower current = longer runtimes.
Of course, I'm the biggest wuss of all...Cause I ain't done shit yet with any of my batts.
Charge those damned batts up! You make it sound like I sold you guys virgin pussy, instead of cheap-ass batteries!
If you bypassed the timer, then with the 2xAA alkalines you're spittin out 35mA a minute...If you want to charge to capacity you gotta leave that shit on there for a little over 5 minutes.
But the REAL deal is with a peak charger or AC Adapter rigged charger...A longer charge, at lower current = longer runtimes.
Of course, I'm the biggest wuss of all...Cause I ain't done shit yet with any of my batts.
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aight biatches, I'm gonna do 5 minutes on my charger - then I'm goin plaid!
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
- noxorc
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These are the same problems that I'm running into..
-Nox
But this is the shit I wanted to know..If I leave the car, come back, it has juice to push it like it's fully charged, but only for a split second and then the batteries are dead again.
I'm off to QFM to read up about this charger....If you bypassed the timer, then with the 2xAA alkalines you're spittin out 35mA a minute...If you want to charge to capacity you gotta leave that shit on there for a little over 5 minutes.
-Nox
- kwikbb
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Namuna-
thanks for the breakdown ie; 35mA per minute... that helps alot!
i'll burn it up tonite and let you all know what's up...
nox-
Thanks
and that link to QFM is the shiznit for a kwik one, trying to decide whether to buy a paek charger for the hell of it or build stand-alone charger? Proly gonna go witht the peak charger... more options.
thanks for the breakdown ie; 35mA per minute... that helps alot!
i'll burn it up tonite and let you all know what's up...
nox-
Thanks

and that link to QFM is the shiznit for a kwik one, trying to decide whether to buy a paek charger for the hell of it or build stand-alone charger? Proly gonna go witht the peak charger... more options.

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The QFM link isn't for a charger, it's just to bypass the PCB on the charger so you get the full force of the batteries.
As far as building a stand alone charger vs. a Peak Charger? If you've got a fat wallet then the Peak Charger is the way to go no doubt (Here's a nice one (http://www.rc-dymond.com/Chargers/20156SuperSmart.htm)...But if you're more a tinkerer and light in the wallet, then modifying a charge stand with an AC Adapter is the much better choice.
That's why I was asking if anyone was interested in the multi-voltage AC Adapter I posted about in the for sale forum
As far as building a stand alone charger vs. a Peak Charger? If you've got a fat wallet then the Peak Charger is the way to go no doubt (Here's a nice one (http://www.rc-dymond.com/Chargers/20156SuperSmart.htm)...But if you're more a tinkerer and light in the wallet, then modifying a charge stand with an AC Adapter is the much better choice.
That's why I was asking if anyone was interested in the multi-voltage AC Adapter I posted about in the for sale forum
- kwikbb
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yeah i know, but it's a kwik fix when you need the juice... since i was all gung-ho about doing the mod one night, i forgot all about charging it so the bypass serves it purpose well.Namuna wrote:The QFM link isn't for a charger, it's just to bypass the PCB on the charger so you get the full force of the batteries.
thanks for the link to the charger too, is that one that you use? or is it just a reco?

- hogjowlz
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- kwikbb
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i gotta check out my local hobby/video shop and see if he's got some clones left... just so i can say i have at least one clone and perform experiments on it's helpless ass.hogjowlz wrote:you will get a quicker charge if you ad a single or double battery holder to your controller. its the most painless mod you can do and it increases range a little(sometimes doubles or triples but not bits for some reason)

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there's one I forgot on the Projects List....
I'm going to try adding a 3rd battery to my controller.
I'm going to try adding a 3rd battery to my controller.
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.