is it possible to duel cell w/o soldering?

riddinspinnaz11 · Post by **riddinspinnaz11** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:29 pm

Post by **CaboWabo** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:57 pm

not effectively.
you could try tape but a few good crashes and that'll be the end of that.
you'll loose a connection and no more "go-go".

riddinspinnaz11 · Post by **riddinspinnaz11** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 11:01 pm

hot glue gun>?????

Post by **CaboWabo** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 11:04 pm

I guess if you were good (and I don't mean like in XMas time/Santa Claus good) you might be able to.
not sure, I've never tried.
I still recommend solder.
a simple soldering iron would do the trick here and they probably cost less than a hot glue gun.

riddinspinnaz11 · Post by **riddinspinnaz11** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 11:06 pm

ill try hot glue gun on my totaled zz first to see if any power gets through... if it doesnt work, then ill just wait

Finks · Post by **Finks** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 12:33 am

A new soldering iron and solder would cost you a total of... $8 at Rat Shack and would last you many years. Do yourself a favor and don't ghetto your electronics, unless you are Hog

VTEC · Post by **VTEC** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 9:30 pm

soldering is the only way to go if a good dual cell is what u want.

HACHI-RYOKU · Post by **HACHI-RYOKU** » Thu Aug 26, 2004 7:27 am

I use to use duct tape. If you pull it tight over the area you want the wires to touch and loose over the rest of the battery, then it works OK. You have wrap the tape around the battery so the tape is sticking to itself in some way. I got sick of this though because it will reduce your speed if your tape starts to come loose in the slightest way, which seemed like every other day. Also the tape would get gooy and stop sticking. This creates more than one problem. 1st- The gooy stuff is somewhat acidic and would start to corrode the batteries. 2nd- I would have to clean all that goo off before installing new batts. 3rd- The tape would take up more room and I had a hard time fitting them in sometimes.

I finally started soldering the batts and I've had very few problems since, and the cars are actually faster because they have better connection with the power source. Just remember not to hold the soldering tip to the batts for too long or you'll damage the batts. I use about 50~80 watts (soldering tools come in diferent wattages. I have a gas one that is adjustable.) for the job. Too low wattage will take longer and that's more time that the soldering tip has too touch the batts. Too high and it gets a little dangerous. These batts can pop in your face with enough heat.

Tools I would suggest;
1. solering iron. I pesonally love the gas powered soldering irons. They heat up fast, and they're portable because you can get small ones that fit in your pocket and don't need a wall outlet. That means I can take it to the track with me in case something comes loose. An electric is just fine though.
2. Don't forget- solder paste. Dab some of this on your batts where you want to solder. It will make the solder go where the solder paste goes. Make sure you clean off the residue after you're done though. This can corrode your batts also. Especially if you're using NIMH batts.
3. Don't forget the solder.
4. If you go with gass powered, then don't forget the gass. It's normally butane. Same thing the butane lighters use.
5. Some kind of holding device is really helpful. I picked up this thing at Radio shack that has two clips on arms and a magnifying glass.
6. A small metal file with a pointy tip. This is really useful. I scratch some grooves into the batts where I want the wires to connect. The solder will have a hard time sticking to the positive and negative terminals without this.
7. Don't forget wire.
8. And last but not least, if you're gonna pick up wire then you can save yourself some headaches and time by picking up some wire trimmers/strippers. I recomend one that can cut as small as .5mm with the corrosponding size wire of course.

You don't have to pick up absolutely everything on this list, but if you do, then it will be alot easier for you.
Also, sorry if you already know all this, but other people reading this post can get something from this too.

Good luck. I was nervous when I first soldered batteries. I was worried they would blow up in may face. But it turned out to be easier than I thought and now I'm soldering them like a madman.

Bit boy · Post by **Bit boy** » Thu Aug 26, 2004 4:08 pm

what about the laymans dual cell in bit science over at Tiny RC? as far as i can tell that doesnt need soldering. but you do have to special order the cells

hue35 · Post by **hue35** » Thu Aug 26, 2004 4:21 pm

Bit boy wrote:what about the laymans dual cell in bit science over at Tiny RC? as far as i can tell that doesnt need soldering. but you do have to special order the cells

Yeah, you have to order special little 'mo batteries and the run time sucks... soldering is easy enough to learn and an internal dual cell chassis kicks all kinds of ass. Don't be sissies, just hack up the chassis, solder those batts together and stuff 'em in there (that's what she said)... it's worth every moment of frustration. If you won't even try a mod like this, you should probably just go over to MRCC and get into big discussions about MicroSizers drift axels and rare earth magnets. I think you're better off hackin', solderin' and pimpin'... it'll feel great when it's done, it's working and it's kicking ass on all your other cars.

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Thu Aug 26, 2004 5:25 pm

and glueguns get hotter than solder so dont be like "waaah im a fucking gaywad i dont want to burn myself"

altho lead is toxic especially for children so always clean up after you finish working. maybe explains goku?