bitPimps.lixlink.com

I always had questions about that- If I could figure it out, I could mod controllers for 2-speed operation.

And I got another thing: I have an LXX 35mhz 2speed control that seems to have a short. It charges alright, but when you press a button to make it turn or go, the corresponding light just goes dim and the car just sits there. And that's with new batteries.
Is there any way to fix that, with a soldering iron, or is my control done for?

Oh, and more props to DarkTari, his suggestion to go to Tower Hobbies for parts was the best purchase of bit shit I've ever done. I ordered just about everything they had in stock, and I can't wait until they get in more complete kits. The 3.0 Lucifer Rotor is way faster than I would have thought, and hauls ass with an MS car, so I'm getting me some, whatcha know about that?

I'm bouncin' out. Drop me a line if ya got suggestions,
Abe

Well, I would start out by trying another controller. I'm pretty sure you have more than one. you get the same results, then break down the car and check all your wiring.

2 speeds are different in that they supply the motor with about 50% power when you go forward and back and pushing the turbo gives it the full 100%.

take apart your controller, one of the led's on the tx pcb is most likely touching the pcb under it. put some tape there.

Oh, yeah. I definitely have more than one. It's too bad LXX controls were made with poor QA standards, cause they would have been the shit to have when it comes to bits.

I'll test the control for a short in the next few days- I don't have a multitester at the moment, and it SUCKS ASS being without one.

Is it a resistor that that when put into or out of effect (by fingerswitch) that pulses the singnal to the car's PCB? My Super Bit contoller could use 2-speeds, and it looks ready for it out of the box,

Tired so I'm bouncing out again,
abe

http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/artic ... 34&catId=8

theres the LXX controler fix tutorial that PH2T made, might help?

Seen the tutorial, saved it for later, and I'll see if the problem is the same. Weird thing was, the thing worked fine when I first got it, but I also had a 40 and 45 that would interact with each other if within 3 feet of each other. Very strange. I'm sure the 35 is fixable, but like I said, I need a multitester first. I also need to refine my soldering skills for other stuff too, since my hobbies aren't limited to RC's, I also do headphones and headphone amps.

i'm not even sure what a multitester is (multimeter perhaps?) and i can diagnose this problem fine. just look at it.

if you wanna give up on it get your 40mhz tx and twiddle the variable inductor on the car pcb until they work together. you can tune the car pcb +- about 5-10mhz.

You can do that? How?

Oh, and when I said multitester, I mean multimeter. I say that because the thing is used to test, right? Just seems more 'natural' to me, I guess.

grab your 35mhz car pcb. on it is a component called a variable inductor. it's part of the receiver curcuit used to fine tune the frequency. it's big and white (sometimes black), made of plastic, has some copper wire wrapped around the outside, a ferrite grub screw in it and probably has wax in it. turn on the 40mhz tx and hold down a button while turning the grub screw with a small flat screwdriver (preferably plastic) until the pcb responds.

you can do this with cars that have bad range and sometimes fix them. just have a button held down on the tx and walk away from it. adjust the vi until you get the best range possible.

will try. Late.