Motors and batteries I should know about?

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 1:13 am

Check it out: Lately, I've been waiting to upgrade all my bits to the Tomy Lucifer Rotor standard because of its obscene performance that I should have been aware of earlier, even on LXX bits by adding a plastic shim behind the endbell contact plate and weighing the Tomy/MS chassis VS the LXX one to make sure they are both equal. Also, I've considered getting addtional 200mah batteries from ToyEast to round out my collection, as well as those of some of my bro's.

Then all of a sudden I stumble across QFM Racing and TinyRC.com(I knew about them prevously, I just didn't find them making a big impact), and find that QFM had 'Pink Slip' pink endbell 3.8 motors and suggested using some mystery "1/3 AAA NiMH" battery that I've never seen before that is said to deliver a 20 minute runtime on 90sec. of charge, and around 30 on 180sec. TinyRC supposedly sells two different 3.8 motors and some 150mah battery, and I don't know if they are the same thing; QFM had a post on their site that said all their stuff was going to be available there and I need verification of that if I can get it.

So, how does the 'Pink Slip' motor and the QFM suggested NiMH battery rate against what I'm considering getting? Is there something better out there(I already have the 3.4NX from ZipZaps, all Tomy motors, and several Perfection 4.2 pros and one 4.2 king dud), or am I chasing my tail on this one?

Whew, long post. Hit me up,
Abe

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 6:47 am

i'm pretty sure we've covered this before but anyways...
i got a "bit char g motors" pink ended 3.8. it performed a little bit like a good perfection 3.8. but i never found a motor to beat the zz purple 3.4 nitrous express motor. the old ones were better than the new ones but. and to fit a new zz motor in a bit just pry off that big hunk of metal from the endbell, the old style motor connection is under it.

batteries, best performers are the green 150mah nicads (if you can still get them). failing that the regular ol tomy 50mah batts are outstanding in the punch department. it's weird but at this scale i've found nicads to be better than nimh.

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Sat Feb 26, 2005 11:07 pm

there's an auction at eBay,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 25507&rd=1
and it supposedly has those 150mah batts in NiMH form, the ones that run for 20 mins or somesuch. I wonder if that's legit? Those pics are from QFM.

Also, I've run the 3.4 purple NX (I removed the metal shroud on it a while ago) in an LXX up against a kit I got my sis for xmas, and her 3.0 Lucifer in a Microsizer smoked mine, it took off like a bitch. I wonder if I have a problem with my motor if that's the case?

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Feb 27, 2005 7:51 am

In my experience, the couple pink endbell 3.8s I had totally lacked torque, and seemed sluggish compared to a Perfection 3.8, but given the chance to wind up, they seemed to have a higher top speed. MOSFETs really wake them up. In a FET modded car, I'd say they are easily faster than a Perfection motor, and unlike Perfection, they are not a crap shoot, because TinyRC stands behind what they sell.

As far as 200mah cells go, I'm tellin' ya man, they're a waste of money. No need to hop up the batteries. I get 20 minute runtimes from the stock 50mah Tomy cells with a 3 minute charge time, and they punch harder. If you want longer runtime, most clone cars come with 100-120mah cells, and those easily get me about a 45 minute runtime, with a 6-8 minute charge. I don't know about you, but I don't have the attention span to sit with a car and play that long in one sitting. My favorite batteries are these blue 70mah NiCds that I occasionally find in a clones, and they are labeled "Hi-Watt". Those are the best all around batteries, IMO.

...and if I'm starting to sound like a broken record to some people, sorry, but I'll keep reposting this info as long as I have to. I really can not comprehend why so many people are looking for larger capacity batteries when they haven't even tried charging their stock ones to capacity, because I'm positive that if they did, they wouldn't even bother thinking about a new cell.

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:50 am

Don't apologize, you saved me some cash by giving that info. But now here's the thing: Where can I get the batteries you prefer for the lowest price? My LXX 120mah batteries all blew out on my standalone charger (3vdc 800ma regulated) and I want to standardize all my bits. At present they are using a mix of everything from the blue Panther battery, the light blue Super bit battery(i've never seen what kind it is), several 200mah's(TE stopped carrying the Tomy OEMs), and soon to be using two of whatever is in the Microsizers kits I ordered. And in refrence to NiCd's, do they have to be fully discharged like regular NiCd type batteries before taking an additional charge?

Oh, and one more thing: You can charge up a stock battery that long and get that kind of charge, are you shitting me? 3mins for 20? That is insane! Should I try that with any of my cells to see if they can take it?

If you can get back to me on that, it would really help. My bro's complain their cars can't run for shit at present, and I wonder if you can do an extended charge with a ZZ power cell.
Late,
Abe

Matic · Post by **Matic** » Mon Feb 28, 2005 3:56 am

seeberg wrote: You can charge up a stock battery that long and get that kind of charge, are you shitting me? 3mins for 20? That is insane! Should I try that with any of my cells to see if they can take it?
Abe

Stock charger has a cca. 700 mA charge current (you can measure it for exact value). If you have 100 mAh cell that means that you have to charge it for 1 hour with 100 mA (or 1/10 of hour with 1000 mA). You do the math

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Mon Feb 28, 2005 4:18 am

Thanks, Matic, I'll make a note of the equasion. I just did a free spinning test using my outboard charger with 5 minutes charging that 200mah battery that TE sells, and it got 15 minutes of runtime(3:1/play:charge), with the final minute degrading in performance. That's with 800ma of current. If the 200mah rating on my current choice of battery is true, then I might be able to crunch the math to do a max charge and test it. Of course, if anyone can suggest a place that sells a better battery, I'd rather have it, since a 3:1 ratio of runtime is good, but a 4:1 or 5:1 ratio would be excellent.

Late,
Abe

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Mon Feb 28, 2005 8:01 am

I use a pair of AAAs wired straight to the base, and watch for voltage drop with my volt meter. Using that method, my stock 50mah NiCd Tomy cells usually peak at about 3-3.5 minutes, with a fresh set of batteries in the charger. When the batteries in my charger start to go dead, and I have to charge longer, and I get even better run times.

The slower you charge, the more you can charge, because there is less heat build up. Heat is our worst enemy in a battery.

Where can I get the batteries you prefer for the lowest price?

I get those blue cells from Microspeed, and occasionally I'll find one in a Charg-N-Go or Precious chassis.

I used to get batteries from this place:
http://www.batterieswholesale.com/nimh.htm

They had a sample pack of 8 150mah batteries shipped for $13.

HirotoR34 · Post by **HirotoR34** » Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:56 pm

Shit, after seeing Finks Evo ZZ perform on an SE cell, I'd like to throw em in all my cars. I also like the way the pack can be split, so you can put them wherever you want

Bird · Post by **Bird** » Mon Feb 28, 2005 5:37 pm

HirotoR34 wrote:Shit, after seeing Finks Evo ZZ perform on an SE cell, I'd like to throw em in all my cars.

Me and 219 went to hogjowlz' house one night last summer, and he threw down an SE celled, JBWeld modded ZZ and my jaw literally dropped...

Needless to say I was at the Shaq ordering some for myself very soon after.

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Mon Feb 28, 2005 7:58 pm

fellas, the BEST 1/4 AAA batts out there are the KANS:

check em here:

http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/battNCha ... Id=U368875

that config is a KAN Ni-MH 7.2V 1/4 AAA 80mAh Six Cell Flat Pack. you can remove the batts and use them your self.

most KAN cells can support up to a 10C discharge rate. That's pretty high, this means you can get up to 800mA out of them. I gave some to SuperFly a while ago, I don't know if he's used them yet. Butt they pack a punch.

here's some KAN 1/3AAA batts:

http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/battNCha ... Id=U782500

again, the mah ratings are not as high as perfection nimh's. the KANS 1/4AAA is 80mah and the 1/3AAA is 180mah, but you'll still get as great a punch as the original TOMY nicds.

cheers,

ph2t.

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Tue Mar 01, 2005 2:43 am

Thanks! I'll check all those sites for cells now and then buy some when I come up with some scratch. I finally got my Auto Modellista kits and now I can get down to standardizing my cells and motors for my bits. Beyond that, I need more of those Perfection heatsinks from TE(the top tension kind- Ultra strength doesn't fit in any of my bits)-I love the way they look and fit like a true OEM upgrade, and I'm still trying to find clues as to what the "Temp Sensor Heatsink" is in Bit Racer tuneup kit S-09. That sounds really trick, if it does what it says.

Any take on that?

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Wed Mar 02, 2005 7:39 am

Thanks for the hookup, ph2t. I'm gonna definately check those out.

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:23 pm

cheap nimh cells are way worse than cheap nicads. most of the nimhs we use in bits are poor quality, that's why they perform so badly. but a quality (usually japanese made) nimh will kick ass! them kan's look interesting

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:54 am

I gotta correct myself: the ultra strength Perfection heatsinks are the ones that fit, they have the narrow clamp on them.

Alright then, it's settled. I'm gonna get the 1/3AAA KANS type cell blocks and separate them, and then pair them up with Lucifer Rotors, due to their extreme thrust, unless I should get the 1/4AAA instead. The ZZ Nitrous 3.4 just doesn't do it for me anymore, so that goes to my bro's ZZ kit.

New question, and this one is for my bro: Can a ZZSE body(Mustang 302 & Plymouth Cuda) be put on a regular ZZ chassis?