bitPimps.lixlink.com

Hey Ya'll,
I had a scrap SE Chassis laying around, and working micro blast propo pcb, and everything attached, so I was wondering how to go about putting this pcb onto a SE chassis and making it work? I chopped some of the SE chassis up, so everything will fit, i.e. the steering motor fitting. Anyways I'm not sure how everything works, what I mean is, on a SE the + wire on the PCB goes where on the chassis? Also since the drive motor is hardwired do I have to do anything else such as connect it to the power supply? Since everything is connected to the pcb already, what I do now, let's start from there. Sorry if this was a confusing thread like my last one on a pcb swap.
Thanks

The motor to the left of the PCB is the drive motor, the one to the right is the steering motor.
Any and All help is appreciated.

Alright double post, sorry about this.. but I wired everything up, and it is using a 80 mah battery, and I'm trying to charge it and drive it, but the battery is getting overheated and no response at all. Will somebody please help, I got wire - to - and + to +. I don't know what else to do, but everything fits at least

Thanks Ya'll

EDIT: I don't know if this was a stupid thing to do, but I put a resistor on the pos. and neg wires on the charger, I thought it prevent the batt from getting so hot in the chassis, but guess thats not working, still don't know what to do, seeing that I'm not good w/ electronics.

you took the wrapping off of it and the whole battery is putting out negative current around the whole battery, thats what the wrapping on it was for. wrap it in electrical tape once or twice around,but i doubt that will work, the battery is probably already over the hill now.

It looks like you got the battery in backwards, from the pic.

The SE is backwards of a bit, the + is on the driver's side.

... and stampede_dude is correct, that battey is probably toast by now.

Here's a tip, if you want your batteries to have that shiny metal look, wrap the battery in packing tape. If you do it smooth, and work out the bubbles as you go, it'll be invisible. Acouple layers will insulate it adequately.


So WTH is a Micro Blast, and where it did you get it? I'd really like to try to make my MT proportional.

Alright well the reason that 80 mah cell is unwrapped is because the charger over heated the whole cell making the wrap on it expand, rip and come off, so since that battery is probably shot, I'll try another cell, and the battery was in right wasn't it, if your looking at it from the back the neg is on the left and the pos on the right?????

Anyway, You get Microblast at your Target, I payed around $9.99, there in the same area as MS's, but unfortunately my Target stopped stocking MS, so now all I have there is the Microblast, The shells look pretty goofy, and they come in the freq 27 and 49.
Thanks
EDIT: so I got that battery backwards, I guess I'll get another cell and make sure it's facing the other way. Thanks

Alright Here it is finished and running stong, the only problem is the steering motor is so strong it's bending out the steering holder (the bottom part of the chassis that holds the steering knuckle) otherwise this car has a decent speed for a hardwired motor, it needs to be faster though, so what should I do now, convert to motors with endbells, dual cell or have somebody like you Dave FET it for me? I recommend Ya'll trying this for an MT, good PCB!
Thanks for the help.

I've never seen a Micro Blast PCB, so I wouldn't bet on me figuring it out, until I've seen it. Besides, I haven't figured out very much on my own, it's people like ph2t and codesuidae that do the figuring. I just follow their directions.


But I am interested in checking out one of these Micro Blast boards for my MT.

Are they true proportional, or are are they like 3 steps or something? The steering is proportional too?

Wait, I just know that I am running a steering motor that will spin 24/7 outside of the SE gearbox. The steering is even w/ the stock SE steering, if not better, it is however faster steering with more power, the PCB is a little bit lighter than SE/MT PCB's and there is more room available for more cells, lipo's or whatever else you may need, I don't know what Ya'll mean when You talk about how many steps of steering it has, so if somebody explains I could answer Ya'll's questions better.
Thanks though, and what should I do to it now?

Steps-Like how many times it can go over, before going completly over.... hard to explane

i think i may have one of these "microblasts" but i cant figure out bitpimps way of loading pics
edit: also it isnt propo

civicsr2cool wrote:i cant figure out bitpimps way of loading pics

This should explain it:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=1177

thanks CaboWabo i was looking at that earlier but didnt see it . i got some pics. the board is the same exact board as his cept mine aint got motors n stuff. i dont know how well they run because i bought it and i immediatly gutted it for the hardwired motors i dont think they prolly run too well looking at the pcb cause its only printed on top and looks VERY cheap. also i think i picked like 3 of um up at kmart for $5 each. i gave the 2 away as christmas presents

It was propo until You gutted it..... but it shouldn't be to hard to get it running again, it's one of the simplest PCB's ever made. haha

how do you get your steering back to center? also it is not propo it is just plain up and down left and right. no slow up or half left.

Well I guess your right, there's not all that fancy stuff like in a SE, but you got to steer it back to center, haha, yeah ghetto, but it's at least semi propo I thought propo just meant that it was steered by a motor instead of magnets, guess not....my fault for thinking it was fully propo, sorry.